The Armour Archive

Scott

1.25mm will be no problem. I've cut at least 1.6mm Ti.

Scott

Yup. Ti cuts like butter on the shear. Just make sure that you completely deburr the edges so that there are no nicks where a crack could start.

Scott

I made something similar years ago. I took a scrap strip of steel and punched some holes in a line at the end and then belt-sanded the inside of the resultant slot. I use it when I can be bothered to get get it, or when I hit my fingers too much.

Scott

I'm not sure that I am understand what the issue is that you are having. Is it that you are burning through the thin angle iron? I have issues with burn through when trying to weld to sheet metal using my wire-feed welder, especially thinner than 14#. Here is how I would approach welding a nut to th...

Scott

Like Mac said, the best thing to do is to punch out the nail. I use a 1/8" punch on my Whiney #5Jr. First, clip the nail shorter with some end/side/diagonal cutters, and then put the tack into the punch with the clipped nail sticking into the bottom die. Squeeze & presto! You now have a fancy washer...

Scott

In that last pic, it looks like the crossbowman said, "Hey! This windlass doesn't work right!" and threw it on the ground.

Scott

Oh, so you built up a solid table top by bolting together 4 4x4s, and then cut out a recess for each of the stake plate holes? Or are there actually through holes for each of the stake plate holes? I hadn't considered doing a solid top. I was thinking of just a frame that the plate would sit on (may...

Scott

Can you post more pictures of your stake plate bench? I need to build one. I had envisioned a smaller one using 2x4s, but I like the idea of having the leg vise on it. I was also planning on building a stand-alone leg vise holder, but now I am intrigued by the idea of merging them.

Scott

Epic first post!

Scott

Mac wrote: I have no idea why these bollock tassets are made of narrower lames than the rest of the fauld; but that does seem to be typical.

Mac
Mac

Isn't it obvious? It's all a matter of perspective. The smaller lames make the contents look bigger!

- Scott

Scott

Spuntop!

- Scott

Scott

BTW: There are no heavy tourneys listed in the battlefield schedule. Tons of rapier activities shown, but none of the usual heavy tourneys, such as the Rose, novice, grey beard, squires, polearm, baronial champions, etc.

- Scott

Scott

Is there a Hastings Battle this year at Pennsic?

Inquiring minds want to know!

- Scott

Scott

Mac, It's obvious, isn't it, that they were simply using a common unit of 1/240". Look how it all simplifies out. A1163 168/240" A1164 132/240" A1165-6 20/240" A1168 105/240" A1170 150/240" A1172 96/240" A1176 80/240" A1183 140/240" A1187-8 120/240" See? One unit to rule them all! 8) - Scott

Scott

Chris Gilman wrote:This is boring, can we get back to the helmet?

Nice. I actually chuckled.

- Scott

Scott

Thanks! That is exactly what I was wanting to know. If the narrowing of the strip is a concern, you could start with one slightly wider and then grind it down to a uniform width afterwards. Or, maybe mark the edge of the steel a uniform distance in, and then attach the trim piece so that it just tou...

Scott

I did! It was cut from a straight (or very nearly straight) edge of a piece of sheet stock. I'm pretty surprised that this works as well as it does. So long as you treat it gently and keep annealing, it will take quite a curve. Mac I would love to see more progress pics and/or a description of this...

Scott

I didn't think about the possibility of it being a wide bar that was filed, and then split lengthwise into a V. I was thinking more along the lines that the armourer told his apprentice, "I need a cubit of fancified barstock" and then bent it into a V. Mac, On the brass strip pics above, did that st...

Scott

Johann ColdIron wrote:
Interesting that the file work on the rib is not bilaterally symmetrical. I had not noticed that before.

It looks to me as if they did the file work on the rib prior to shaping it. If you straighten it out, the file marks all go the same direction.

- Scott

Scott

Re: Tapered hinge pins I hadn't thought about keeping them from jamming. Interesting idea. I just assumed that it was to take up the slack so that there wouldn't be any play in the joint. Remember, these aren't really "hinges". That is, I don't think that they were meant to operate as a hinge, but r...

Scott

Is there a thermostat on it or a high/med/low setting? You are probably right that the floor is leeching heat from it. A thin layer of styrofoam or even an air-gap between it and the cement would greatly improve things. It might save you the electricity costs to pay for the material. Sean I covered...

Scott

Beautiful helm!

Unfortunately, if this is meant for SCA, the visor is thinner than the 1.6mm minimum requirement for helms. This may be why you are not getting any bites on it.

- Scott

Scott

I, too, have trouble with blowing through thin metal with my wire-feed welder. One trick that really helps with this is to back the seam with a piece of copper. HF used to sell a copper welding spoon, but I don't see it on their site now. I made my own by folding a piece of heavy copper sheet (maybe...

Scott

Mac,

It might be the photos, but it looks to me like you are missing the dent in the top, just right of the crest.

- Scott

Scott

Can you make a top ring/collar that holds the flange in place during the pressing operation? I made something similar back in 2003 when I needed to dish out 8 identical shield bosses. I took a 6" ID pipe, maybe 18" long, and cut off the top 1/2" I then welded four brackets to the 1/2" piece and four...

Scott

Good point on the weld spatter. I use anti-spatter spray, but in a pinch I have used Pam, to help keep the spatter from sticking.

- Scott

Scott

My 7 1/2 looks different (cast handles instead of pipes), but it uses the same bottom dies as a #7 (3/4" OD, threaded) and the same top punch as a #8 (1/2" diameter body).

BTW: The #5xx (the deep throat (heh, heh) one) also uses the same bottom dies as the #7.

- Scott

Scott

Nice! Looks like your milling attachment worked great.

You might want to grind some bevels into the ajoining edges where you are going to lay your weld bead.

- Scott

Scott

You could always use your wooden form as a positive and sand cast your tool out of the material of your choice.

(and then sell a few extras to cover your time)

- Scott

Scott

Dave R and I were thinking that it may well be strong enough to silver solder it all together if I can produce flat enough surfaces for the joint. In addition to that, I was thinking of stringing the segments together on a mild steel rod and riveting them. That's easy enough if all I have to do is ...

Scott

I don't know if you have access to a mill, but removing that material would be easy if so. Just clamp the piece on the table (most likely in a machinist vice that is clamped to the table) with the angle you want remaining parallel to the table and make multiple passes with an end cutter, raising the...

Scott

Yup, it was lots of fun! The main rule change was that a dane axe was a one-hit kill. So instead of getting a free hit to the helm or maille, the dane axe ended you. Except for the two kings, of course, which still got an extra hit. This rule change really made me change tactics. I figure that I can...

Scott

I thought I would post my method for actually creating the slots, once you figure out where they go. In general, I punch a bunch of overlapping holes in a line, and then file out the "teeth" between the holes. In practice, it is hard to make sure that your holes are all lined up. Sometimes you will ...

Scott

Done!

Thanks,
- Scott

Scott

Yay! It just showed up on the online schedule for Wednesday (of battle week), 3-5. The good news is that it doesn't conflict with the Grey Beard tourney, running from 12-2. Yeah, I'm old. What of it? :P The bad news is that it completely overlaps with the squires' tourney, also running from 3-5. I'm...

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