The Armour Archive

Tailoress

Henrik, what time period and general geographical location are you going for? I think that will help drive the fabric decision. Also, "coat armours" are not always the same thing as a surcoat -- Coat armours are almost certainly padded and quilted for stiffness and absorption of blows without penetr...

Tailoress

Anybody have a copy of the first Armour Research Society Journal? I think the cover has a picture of a Scottish knight (turn of the 15th/early 15thc) with a bascinet with aventail and a decorated orle. I think. The image came from Toby Capwell's collection of photos for his article on Scottish effig...

Tailoress

how has the progression going on the french knight kit? :D If you are asking me, it will never go anywhere. :D I am merely a fan of the clothing and armour and have a passion for researching such subjects. I don't intend to ever make myself a version of it. But, I do love seeing well-executed kits,...

Tailoress

I am not challenging the idea that attaching the hosen to the same thing that holds up the braies was the most common solution. The evidence is very strong in favor of that. If I could make that work comfortably, I would do it. Mac Have you tried a version where what holds the braies up is a belt i...

Tailoress

http://visualiseur.bnf.fr/ConsulterElementNum?O=IFN-7815434&E=JPEG&Deb=1&Fin=1&Param=C I think this is different than the one you were thinking of, but this is the one I pulled up while looking for the other. That's a good one, Char, because he's pulling off a peacetime garment, not mail, like the ...

Tailoress

It looks to me like it serves two purposes: one, it helps to alleviate some of the weight of the mail covering the top of the head (everything is pulling down from there), and it also keeps it aligned so that it doesn't slide forward or side--to-side over the face at an inopportune time.

Tailoress

Hey Tasha, Thanks for all the info I was wondering if you could show me the art work of the lace up doublet thingy yes I said thingy. Also thanks for the info on that Charles de Blois Pourpoint. Hi, I'm in full approval of saying "thingy" when we're not sure what to call it. :D I want to help you w...

Tailoress

I've recently switched from pointing my hosen to my braies and now point them to a pourpoint under layer patterned on the CdB pourpoint. I can confidently say that this small change is enough to convince me to keep doing a late 14th century impression. So much more comfortable. I think the vest sol...

Tailoress

Hi David, thanks. :) Yes, I do believe a good and comfortable solution would be to run points through the tops of your hosen and then through anchoring points on the braies belt. This would require slits in the braies for access to each anchoring point. Note -- drawstrings don't really allow for thi...

Tailoress

Tasha - Is your disbelief in the belt system because of the date or the general feasibility? This Thread shows examples, both recreated and in period artwork of separate belts being used to hold up hosen/chausses. I confess, I had not read that thread cover-to-cover until you pointed it out just no...

Tailoress

Hi Swiss pike, When you say "cotehardie", are you thinking of a close-fitting garment of a short nature with buttons on the center closure? If so, I would go with a simpler lace-up version of that underneath. We do have pictorial examples of men being helped out of top-layer garments with a laced-up...

Tailoress

Here I thought this thread was going to be about padding the chest of a man's garment.

Tailoress

I don't see Jeff Wasson's site under custom -- wassonartistry.com. Cet's got a FB page for Rough from the Hammer -- (can't supply the link at work, but it's easy enough to find) I believe Jiri Klepac is back in business for custom orders, but a quick attempt to open his site shows it to be a dead li...

Tailoress

Tasha, many here have giving you outstanding information about what a French Knight of the late 1300's would wear, but I would offer you something else. in 1356 Sir Geoffroi De Charny (in many peoples mind the best knight since The Marshal) wrote a book about life as a French Knight in 1356. What i...

Tailoress

There's a find from London (found in the MoL Dress Accessories book, I believe) which shows a belt buckle with a little squared-off hook at the bottom of it. This would jive with images of men wearing belts with a bollock dagger hanging down in the dead center.

Tailoress

Tasha, I've been working on a Charles VI coat armor and the sleeves are not working. I have 2 questions. First was the original sewn with the sleeves at 90 degrees? (the black prince jupon appears this way) and second is there an armpit gusset? I'm having bunching/binding issue and I think the form...

Tailoress

My vote is for "they are all fur depictions". It could be a difference in the way it's cut -- for a large area of coverage, there's beauty in seeing the repeated pattern of the fur shadings. For a small decorative area, the fur could have been cut more conservatively to trim away darker areas. I thi...

Tailoress

Gregoire de Lyon wrote:Hi All-

For those of you who have not yet seen the article, it is now available via ILL from the University of Michigan.

You rock, Gregoire!

Tailoress

Could it be the same sort of fringe we see on the German Waffenrock? http://www.kostym.cz/Obrazky/1_Originaly/01_Goticke/I_01_69.jpg Just a note of interest: if it *is* like the surviving German waffenrocks with fringe, those are effectively jack-like armour because their surfaces are treated with ...

Tailoress

Doug -- that's terrible. I didn't know that had happened to you.

I checked out Viking Leathercrafts but they only have one shoe type labeled for women; I guess this vendor's customers are primarily men?

Tailoress

Talhoffer 1443 edition? Are these full length doublets with mail sleeves, cloth doublets with contrasting colors, or sleeveless. I am thinking probably just contrasting color cloth doublets. Definitely contrasting colors in one doublet. We begin to see this regularly in the art by the turn of the 1...

Tailoress

Since we know the "cord" hose are lined with linen, and both are cut on the bias, I don't see how this particular example could be knit. Could a possible seam below the knee be obscured by the common garter? Just for the record, I'm not making a case for this particular description being knitted --...

Tailoress

What does the fragments tell us about thread size? Why do you think that only with very thin needles (and thus I suppose thread) you could achieve what they were portraying? Sorry if they appear silly questions. Do you have the Museum of London Textiles & Clothing book? There is at least one exampl...

Tailoress

It is not possible that those hosen were made with knitted wool? I think knitting is a later technique, but there is a similar technique that can achieve similar outcomes if I remember right and is quite ancient (now I can't remember its name). This would make the tight fitting hosen look very very...

Tailoress

Ernst wrote:Wasn't it the Aztec who soaked their fiber armor in brine? I've used cotton upholstery rope as a quick cheat.

The deuced part of all this is that I doubt I'll embark on another repro attempt any time soon to test the theory.

Tailoress

First hym nedeth to have a paire of hosen of corde wtoute vampeys And the saide hosen kutte at ye knees and lyned wtin wt Lynnen cloth byesse as the hose is I interpret this to mean that the man is wearing a normal pair of bias-cut hose, and then a sort of gamboised cuisse (hosen stuffed with cord)...

Tailoress

Tasha, I think that makes sense. It is interested that it was that heavy but not surprising. If a grown man had a 12lb one that would indeed be a pretty hefty type of armour in its own right. Would there be enough room under the sleeves for plate armour if it were scaled down for a child? RPM I alm...

Tailoress

However, eventually I'll probably come to update this garment, and when I do, I'll get a copy of your patter Tailoress and by the gods it will be glorious! :) Thanks, Henrik. A lot of people have had pretty awesome results. Sometimes I'm amazed people commit to the project and follow it through, be...

Tailoress

Tasha, Very interested in this comment. 'it's really stiffly and thickly padded' as an explanation to it being an over armour. Why do you think this? Ed II's aketon is around 2.3lbs of cotton from the wardrobe roll of 1323 and the Paris roll from 1311 states 3.1lbs for aketons. Ed II's was for sure...

Tailoress

James B. wrote:
I tossed together a new webpage with some images http://www.historiclife.com/Essays/Earl ... blets.html

Finally! I went looking for something like this on your site just last week and couldn't find it. I'm glad my Psychic Suggestion Rays worked.

Tailoress

However, i have to ask, is not the Charles VI pourpoint actually an outer-layer-Jupon instead of a padding garment to keep below the armour? The arms are a lot puffier than other examples I have seen of such clothing. Yes, it's certainly a coat armour, meaning that it's a coat worn as an additional...

Tailoress

Hi Henrik, I am not sure if the side view in that picture is the best source, but you can look at the jupon of the Black Prince (see Janet Arnold, "The Coat-Armour of the Black Prince", Jnl of the Church Monuments Society ) and the pourpoint of Charles VI (see Tasha Kelly's recent article in Waffen...

Tailoress

One of the rear panels is completely unstuffed and unquilted, IIRC. There's a lot of speculation that it could have been deemed unnecessary due to whatever manner of use the coat was for never causing harm to that quadrant of the torso. Cet, do you remember which side in the back that is?

Tailoress

Thanks Tasha! I appreciate the details on materials. So it could come from anywhere in Western Europe from any time in a 300 year range. Sounds perfect for the SCA documentation! ;) Does the use of what appears to me to be cloth buttons and button loops help narrow that any? Could the thin buff lea...

Tailoress

The outside is made of a thin natural colored buff leather, IIRC, and it's stuffed with what is likely either hemp or linen fibers (it has the look of very fine straw; not really cotton-esque). I believe it's lined in a sturdy plain weave linen, natural colored. It really needs to be carbon-14 dated...

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Re: Question on mens 14th C. Cotehardie doublet and hose

Re: Question on mens 14th C. Cotehardie doublet and hose

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Re: Question on mens 14th C. Cotehardie doublet and hose

Re: Question on mens 14th C. Cotehardie doublet and hose

Re: Question on mens 14th C. Cotehardie doublet and hose

Re: Question on mens 14th C. Cotehardie doublet and hose

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Re: "Straight" arms for the 14th century arming garment?

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Re: "Straight" arms for the 14th century arming garment?

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