The Armour Archive

Ckanite

I like to start off with a flap disk on my angle grinder and then finish up with a hard disk. Then polish.

Ckanite

"Grinders are flesh eating monsters."

Ckanite

I agree. Always learn on the slower methods. Much harder to make a mistake and you get a much better feel for how the piece should look and feel. If you're so inclined ( and a little bit masochistic), get a set of needle files to do some detail work after the edge is just how you would like it. I lo...

Ckanite

Zeth, you are one hell of an artist and a true inspiration! I've done a few grotesque masks and pauldrons, but never anything as intricate nor articulating. Wow man, just wow. Keep up the good work! I always look forward to what you do.

Ckanite

That is coming along very nicely!!

Ckanite

WOW! That's something nice! I hope my girl doesn't see it...

Ckanite

Sweet jesus man! That's awesome!

Ckanite

Very sexy!!

Ckanite

If you do not know it's alloy, you do not know how it will act. It could work fine with not ill effects, if could fail catastrophically and land someone in the hospital or worse. I would not use it unless you can find out it's alloy, either through asking around or some destructive testing. Also is ...

Ckanite

Big forearm muscles. I do it all the time and I've very rarely had a mistake. My set up is strictly by necessity though but I would much prefer a set up like you have Sean.

Ckanite

Looks like the cop needs to be deeper, but all in all, very, very nice work!! Does the mouth of that last mask articulate? and can we see an inside view?

Ckanite

What are the hard points on the top back of the calves for? Very nice looking though not my style.

Ckanite

Bare this in mind: If your sword gets stuck in the thin edge of an opponents shield, you're left without a weapon. The thin edge of the shield would let the blade sink in nice and deep, slowing it down all the while, till it stopped. All your opponent would have to do is let go of their shield and y...

Ckanite

Hey do it up! I'd love to see more authentic stuff!

Ckanite

Please do!

Ckanite

Ahh okay. Sorry for the mix up. If you poke around on here a while you'll find out enough of what to look for and what to avoid like a plague ship.

Ckanite

Looks nice, but the quality, as far as I could see, does not match up with your prices. Now to the prices, I think you nail the price range a bit. Looks to me to be costume armor with those hinges, like Sean wrote, looks good but won't hold up. The gauntlets look nice except for the knuckle plate wh...

Ckanite

Deep cheated plate with lots of padding

Ckanite

What's the primary difference between ox and goat hide?

Ckanite

What thickness were historical Viking shields? My brother and I used to spar with full 36" Viking shields made of 1/2" plywood, didn't much bother of our arms.

Ckanite

As always, beautiful work!

Ckanite

Very nice!! I gave up on the first two pairs I did... makes me want to give it another shot... one day. Good work Steve

Ckanite

Ingelri wrote:Nah, welding in flip flops is perfectly acceptable.

I've done it more than I can count. Also hot forging... not saying that it's a good idea, just that there could be worse...

Ckanite

While they don't look too bad, they won't give you very good finger articulation. It looks like each finger is missing a joint.

Ckanite

Oh MY! I can not wait to see the finished castings!!!

Ckanite

I thought so as well, but if you look at medieval pieces, nothings perfect. If you look at the dorsal band, it isn't perfect either. The whole things fits nicely together though. I like it.

Ckanite

umm.... What's wrong with the rivet spacing?

Ckanite

Well when I work with wood or fiberglass, all bets are pretty much off lol. I take off my apron, shoes, gloves and hat, and quickly pat off as much as I can. You'll still get some in the house unless you strip each time before you go inside... and then you'll still get some to follow you.

Ckanite

I have shop boots, and I always wear a leather apron. Also don't lounge around in my shop clothes.

Ckanite

Wow! That turned out nice! I tried the long nasal once and it really didn't turn out well. Bravo!

Ckanite

I usually go for the 90° route. Do most of your shaping before hand, though some shaping will have to be done afterwards, but it should be minimal.

Ckanite

Yeah, plastic is a rigid material, but like woodrose, I wouldn't trust it. It's also prone to cracking and bending... cracking like your orbital bones, teeth, and nose will be when it fails.

Ckanite

Steelbash, it was never ment for SCA. It was ment for fighting out in the backyard. And shooting at. And at a t-ball stand for my cousin. And a stage prop (too heavy for the actor's neck...) Works well as a trash can and an impromptu ottoman as well...

Ckanite

I used pop rivets on my first greathelm. They worked well, but you still have to mash them down quite a bit, not hard to do really. Doesn't look the best, but I've put that thing through hell and back without much problem. It's cheap and durable. Honestly though, you'd be better served getting sligh...

Ckanite

I LOVE that mask!

Re: making 1st helm - tool question

Re: making 1st helm - tool question

Re: making 1st helm - tool question

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Re: Viking Shield Construction Question

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Re: Need critique of this armour?

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Re: Viking Shield Construction Question

Re: Viking Shield Construction Question

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Re: Velsagrad helm, well at least inspired by it.

Re: Velsagrad helm, well at least inspired by it.

Re: How do you keep from tracking metal bits in to YOUR hous

Re: How do you keep from tracking metal bits in to YOUR hous

Re: Velsagrad helm, well at least inspired by it.

Re: Rolling Edges - before or after shaping?

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Re: Wisby Coat of Plates: Pop-Rivets, Hammer Rivets, or Sew

Re: Wisby Coat of Plates: Pop-Rivets, Hammer Rivets, or Sew

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