The Armour Archive

Otto

Not a bad piece... the shaping could use a bit more work... also... it appears that the rivet heads are flattened on the outside. If you create a small domed indent in the surface that you pein the rivets on, you will retain the clean shape of the round-head rivet. It looks a bit nicer that way. Ove...

Otto

The title says it all... I need a decent looking canvas pavilion for future Pennsic merchanting.

What's a good source?

Otto

Unless you're planning on cutting lots and lots of metal... you should be easily able to find a jigsaw under $50. If you plan on lots of long term cutting... spend a little more and get a really good jigsaw. It is arguably one of the most cost effective cutting methods and is also highly handy to ha...

Otto

I was thinking it sounded good... but I wondered about such issues as: rivets ending up being visible if imperfect or poor metal match rust/debris getting down in the cutout and being difficult to get out the brass being too far inset to be really visible. I had a number of ideas for the application...

Otto

So, I was wondering about making a decorative cutout in an armour piece (helm cheekplate... gorget baseplate...whatever) and then backing the cutout with brass. The notion here, would be to have the rivet heads on the inside, slightly countersink the outside rivet hole, pein the rivet down stoutly, ...

Otto

It appears to be quite well made... you might want to indicate sizing info for folks.

I'd say it's definitely worth the money.

Otto

Wonderful work!

Otto

I use a piece of old railroad track as my primary anvil... at one end, I just drilled a couple of carefully sized indents... one for the 3/16 rivets I use and one for the 1/8 I sometimes use. It's held up for years of fairly intensive armouring. But whatever floats your boat... my "anvil" isn't fanc...

Otto

Now that I think about it... I can tell you how you got that slightly twisted frame and how to avoid it in the future. I'm guessing... guessing mind you... that you did one dome panel at a time... dished it out, completely riveted it in and moved on to the next. If that's how you did it, I'll note t...

Otto

Y'know, something just occurred to me... when you do your nice stainless helm... make sure to use stainless rivets as well. It'd be a shame to do all that work in stainless and have a shiny helm only to have the effect ruined by rusty rivets. Ooo, if I could make a small shaping suggestion... (and t...

Otto

If it's any help, I do my metal purchasing from a local fabrication shop. They have lots on hand and are always happy to sell me whatever I need.

Otto

Looks like it came out pretty well... Can I suggest using a small rivet-head sized dimple in your anvil so that the rivet heads remain rounded and clean instead of flattened? It actually does improve the appearance a bit. Side question... how much of the shaping and such did you have to do?... and h...

Otto

You know, for a first work, that's not at all bad

I've been guilty of much more homely pieces in my past... and things that never made it past the scrap pile.

Keep up the good work and keep learning!

Otto

I've used rjleahy.com as a source for rivets with good luck... If you want the item to be easily shine-able... use cold-rolled steel. With cold-rolled, a quick once-over with a sanding disc on your drill (maybe 120 grit) will give it a nice shine. Hot-rolled can be shined up too, but it's more work....

Otto

Blades... this is coming from someone who's used a jigsaw for armouring for over 20 years now. Don't bother with the expensive bi-metal blades... they don't last long enough to be worth the extra money. For almost ALL my metal cutting... 10 ga. down to 18 ga., I use basic 17 teeth per inch (TPI) bla...

Otto

I'm not in the market, but nicely done!

Otto

Not really a brand per se... but for armour work (which to me includes up to 12 ga. mild or stainless and some occasional barstock and such) you want at least what is qualified as "Industrial". Sears brand or Black and Decker is fine... preferably one which specifically states that it has metal gear...

Otto

Ehhh ya bunch a sissies! Learn to use a jigsaw properly! FAR less expensive to operate and later replace if necessary... and one blade easily lasts through 2-3 helmets and only costs about $1. Who needs these non-versatile, expensive to buy and maintain, touchy, hard to work with shears? Otto, propr...

Otto

yer too darn late... I already pm'd on 'em awhile ago but haven't heard back yet.

who knows? Maybe I'm too late too!

Otto

Darn nice work!

countersunk rivets and the whole bit... good stuff!

Otto

I've always found that I get a better shine using fine grade sand-paper... however, this only counts before the item is assembled. Once there are rivets in it and such, sanding becomes impractical. If it's already assembled, wire wheel is definitely the way to go. I've always had great success using...

Otto

I guess that the notion I operate from as that's what I've always used.

Other methods work for other folks... and that's fine.

of course, anyone with any sense KNOWS my methods are the best!

Otto

My rule of thumb... um... sorry... is that if I can put at least some pressure on it without feeling a sharp pain from the site, it's not broken. It's held true for my fingers and my foot... so I figure maybe it's true in general. All the breaks I've ever had... 7, I think... have always produced a ...

Otto

But... if you have a rounded rivet-sized depression in your anvil... you can pein the rivets on the inside and the outside (where it's visible) retains a perfect appearance.

It's worked great for me for years... your mileage may vary.

Otto

A couple hints... The helm really looks a bit tall... what style are you going for? Making the top that deep will make peining those top rivets from the inside a real bear. The bands need to have their curves smoothed out a bit. To do that, take the front to back and side to side bands off and work ...

Otto

Broken fingers seem to be really common in the SCA. For my part, I've had the finger tips broken on my right middle finger, ring finger, and pinky... one finger each year for 3 years running. The pinky even burst at the side and left a lovely scar as a reminder for me. If I find my way onto the heav...

Otto

Truthfully... If the armour is just going to be for you and some friends... not for large scale selling... what you listed as having just about covers it. If I wanted to be able to armour with minimum tools, I'd have: Jigsaw Ball Pein Hammer A couple of files (one small and one largish) a tree stump...

Otto

A general rule: The harder you push/more you plan on getting done... the less you will actually accomplish. Unless your schedule just won't permit it... armour as the mood strikes and at the pace the project goes. Putting yourself on a strict schedule tends to turn your work to crap. Needing somethi...

Otto

I imagine the reasons for failure are as numerous as the stars in the sky.

In this case, I suspect he lost interest and felt overwhelmed by the backlog of orders he had taken... and found it easiest to just... fade out.

I could, of course, be totally wrong.

Otto

I'm thinking of getting a moderate sized, period looking tent. I'm thinking in the 10-15 ft round or square, plain canvas for long term merchanting.

Preferably something that 1 person could set up in a pinch.

Any recommended sellers of such?

Otto

Does anyone here know... in the midrealm, for a fencer... would a close fitting 16 ga. steel "face" fencing helmet be legal? I was thinking the gap between mask and wearer to be about 1 inch with a couple of padded spots to prevent metal on skin contact. Or... is there a facial contact rule similar ...

Otto

hidden cuisses made from a thick outer layer of leather, in the middle, some heavy stainless steel splints probably 2 inches wide and curved to conform to your leg, and finally a light leather lining to keep the splints from rubbing. As long as your pants are somewhat loose, it should be fairly hidd...

Otto

I have no problem at all bringing my best game when in melee or when in the list with someone I perceive as at my level or higher. It makes no sense at all, I know... but even in high school sports many long years ago, I'd play up to... or DOWN to, my opponents level. Don't know why... just always d...

Otto

I hear and respect what all of you are saying. I just don't think I can really do anything with it. Perhaps it's because when I'm on the field (which I will note, has been awhile) I'm out there for grins. I am not concerned about winning or losing. I'm really not concerned about who the better man i...

Otto

Firstly... I have never ever EVER let anyone know or made it obvious that I was being easy on someone. I guess I'm too soft-hearted... (or is that soft in the head?)... but I could never find it in myself to "smoke" a weaker opponent. I knew who they were and if they really stood a chance or not and...

Wanted Non-Fancy decent pavilion for Pennsic Merchanting

Brass backed cutouts/decoration

Recommended Period Tent Source?

SCA Fencing Midrealm