The Armour Archive

coreythompsonhm

Billy and charlie is on my list of vendors I would like to purchase some things from. I wish their items were also available in brass or some other durable material that would stand up to combat. But for soft kit, pewter works great.

coreythompsonhm

Aussie, i cant get the link right now because Im on my phone, but william hurt has a peascod bp pattern on the pattern archive with the same split like you drew up to form the deep portion

coreythompsonhm

Randy W wrote:What's left, how much for shipping to 43014

+1, and shipping to 98003?

coreythompsonhm

Lets see if I can make this post make sense and helpful for you... It appears that the lame at the top has a decent shape to it, not too "flaired" out at the bottom. However, the next lame down looks like it started out as too much a u shaped pattern, causing the bottom edge of the lame to stick out...

coreythompsonhm

Actually, you can watch that breast plate be made http://www.armuredube.com/Tors_Lanceque ... plate.html

You'll see the pattern at the beginning of the video.

coreythompsonhm

What style of leather coat?

coreythompsonhm

Another consideration I think would be the processes used in forming. Will dishing cause to much tension within a piece, what about raising, hot raising, welding, etc?

coreythompsonhm

I personally like forming 1050 over 4130 (which is really a moot point in the scheme of things). I have not gotten anything of mine heat treated yet. I would be interested in what Rc hardness is suggested for armour. If I can have the heat treaters temper to a certain Rc, then I will continue to ord...

coreythompsonhm

Mad Matt wrote:Wouldn't it make sense to put a seperate forum section for patterns and set a rule allowing posting of a pattern as a thread ONLY. With a descriptive title. This would also allow tech support on the patterns posted to be right there with the patterns.

This!

coreythompsonhm

I knew I should have saved the pics suzerain posted... All links recieve a 404 error

coreythompsonhm

I would suggest bringing the basic tools needed to get started pounding steel. People will be surprised on how few tools are needed for simple starter armour.

coreythompsonhm

Love this helm. Always been in my top 5 list of helmets I want to build.

coreythompsonhm

I would gladly pay $35 for a dvd or digital download

coreythompsonhm

Yeah you need a passport or "enhanced" drivers license to get back into the US.

coreythompsonhm

Ugo has gotten at least one helmet I know of plated. If the company is charging by the batch, a group effort will bring the cost down per individual.

coreythompsonhm

Most craftsmen I have talked to are happy to talk about techniques and tools and such, but get a little more secretive about their patterns. Hmm. Odd. I have found that handing out patterns does almost nothing for the person who gets them. Most people can't turn a pattern into armour anyway. Patter...

coreythompsonhm

How tight is it between your bevor and visor?

coreythompsonhm

The metal version of that is refered to as a slapping spoon. My grandfather used the wood ones for shaping lead filler.

coreythompsonhm

I think I'll go on the safe side and have more than 1/2" of padding.

coreythompsonhm

I figured measuring the padding in a fully compressed state was the easiest way to get a minimum thickness. Otherwise, I plan to make it snug but squishy.

And its really squishy cotton batting. Otherwise I'll track down some loose wool and do the stuffed tube method.

coreythompsonhm

I have found great info on the Archive for how to make period liners, but nothing about how much padding to use to keep it SCA legal. I have an abundance of Warm & Natural 100% cotton batting left over. So, how thick should I make it in its fully compressed state? Also, how much "padding space" shou...

coreythompsonhm

Interested pending price per pound on both steel and brass

coreythompsonhm

Thank you, I will have to buy that book, it looks very interesting

coreythompsonhm

Mac,
I will definitely start reading browsing that site, I will register right after this post!

I thought steel prods came a little later than that, but I gladly stand corrected. However, I seriously want to make a horn and sinew prod.

coreythompsonhm

I am planning a build of a crossbow (I havent decided on a specific example yet, just mid 15th to mid 16th germanic) and I want to see if materials are available. Wood and steel are simple to come by, but what leaves me scratching my head is where to get good horn and bone for inlays. Also, a lot of...

coreythompsonhm

I really have nothing more to contribute, but have been watching this thread with great interest. I have not had time to research more, but it has been on the to do list.

coreythompsonhm

Check out the thread I linked. We discussed a lot of your questions. I am still unsure how the "bevor" is locked closed on the left side. From the pictures I have seen, there isnt a visible closure device. A quick rundown: 1. The bevor is a part of the helmet. It is hinged on the left and gull wings...

coreythompsonhm

Have you seen the sallet/close helm in this thread? viewtopic.php?f=1&t=143001

coreythompsonhm

These guys covered pretty much everything you can do. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/ge ... val-85826/

Woodruff keys are generally cut as a drive to fit. Plan on replacing the key.

coreythompsonhm

What would help so you dont have to rush on the visor design is to build the skull of the helmet first. Think in layers.

coreythompsonhm

I would use the one on the left. But my first choice would be a wood handle.

coreythompsonhm

I've only used the stuff as an undercoating on my '56 chevy. I haven't really looked to see if its flaked off at all. The stuff I got was kinda thick. You might run into some problems if you spay it on lames, etc if its thick like what I had bought.

coreythompsonhm

Hmm Konstantin is onto something... Maybe a "get the newbie started" kit that consists of the spaulder kit (flat, unshaped), the sandbag as Konstantin mentioned, and the mallet or hammer. An available upgrade could be a dishing donut. The kit could also be expanded with more tools and other projects...

coreythompsonhm

We had NG melting furnaces and forges. From what I remember my old shop teacher telling me, the line was directly connected to one of the main lines for the city, and it was unmetered.

coreythompsonhm

For clamping the steel down on my bench, I've found that two c clamps and a straight length of 2x4 works great. I only have access to one edge on my bench to use for clamping, so it can get tricky at times to keep the clamps from being in the way.

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