The Armour Archive

wcallen

Thanks Swete. Other similar comments have been made. I actually have more stuff, but it isn't on display - it sits under the guest bed or in a wooden box. But since they aren't displayed, they don't count. At least I am willing to share.... I was actually putting a stand together over the weekend fr...

wcallen

When it isn't worn, on stands or hanging around.

http://www.allenantiques.com/images/Geo ... leeves.jpg
http://www.allenantiques.com/images/Dow ... 0-2008.jpg
http://www.allenantiques.com/images/Ups ... 6-2007.jpg

Stands work nicely. How they are built depends on what you want to do with them. Mine don't break down - well, most don't.

Wade

wcallen

Usually did them from 14g mild. A simple dished one will get thinner in the middle. My kid's breastplates have usually been 16g if memory serves. I have been too lazy to thin them a lot at the sides, but I do do that a little bit. We did one from 14g 1050. It was macho. The real ones I own are all t...

wcallen

I don't remember for sure. Tom will have to take a picture. From memory... The top is basically a mirror image of the bottom, but with all of the corners rounded off. Bacially both the top and bottom are convex - curving away from the top of the flute to allow for the flute to curve. When you start ...

wcallen

I put tabs in the 2 pair I did. No real experience on how they will wear, but I like the looks of the concealed ties. Somehow seems more like what I interpret the brasses/effigies to show - no bows in various places. I put the ties part way around the sides so that the cop sort of articulates. I hav...

wcallen

Cool assortment of shapes. If you really wanted to be stupid, you could make the nobbly bits all in one piece. Not really a bright thing to do, but we aren't always the brightest around here. I did this helmet from a cone (sorry, not willing to raise that without the one weld): m The acorn is integr...

wcallen

Yup, that is the one I did. Haven't used it in years. Maybe it is because I don't do a lot of flutes, maybe it is because I want a different shape most of the time, or maybe it is because Tom has it. Sure, steal all you want. I just made it up. I think it works well for a certain kind of tall symmet...

wcallen

Thanks Pitbull. They weren't all that hard, you just have to get a feel for how they need to be made. The upper plates are pretty funky in form. The main plate is pretty evenly dished in the back, a little more over the top then just curled in the front to fit to the breastplate. Flair the front and...

wcallen

I am not a current armourer, so I can't say for sure... It all depends on the quality level you are looking for. I tend to aim kind of high (well, maybe very high). Given that - I expect 3-6 months is right out. I expect $2500 is also right out. Anything resembling a full suit that actually closely ...

wcallen

"getting caught in the back" - one really important point is that your backplate has to be formed correctly. Then the pauldron has to be formed correctly. This means that you really need to build this stuff from the inside out. You shouldn't buy arms then try to fit a breast/back to them. ...

wcallen

that one looks to me like it is a recessed groove on the inner plate, likely with an inward fold on the outer plate. Hard to tell for sure. Ffoulkes includes drawings of several of the different styles. The ones with slots seem to have very long slots, but would turn less than the ones which use a r...

wcallen

Or you can go really, really nuts and actually put a mail collar onto the thing. It will involve a lot more tailoring to make sure the hole is really the right size, and then putting the collar on (leather strips in it, a lining, or thicker rings help it stand up nicely), then the shirt would need a...

wcallen

There are lots of subtly different 16th c. arms out there. But here are some examples: m m m m m etc. Typically they have turners in the upper arm, more bracelet like elbows and often less fitted forearms. All of these rules are violated on particular pieces, so you need to decide what decade or so ...

wcallen

That is a very, very nice piece of work.

I agree with Ugo - who does really nice work too, by the way.

Wade

wcallen

Definitely turners there. The 'low profile' kind where the turn goes in. A fine example of the harder to see ones. 1490 always seemed a little early to me on that one too, but what do I know? We are still post 1450-80. Whether the 16th c. starts at 1490 for this one or a little later (all of the oth...

wcallen

fair enough. The Higgins has some nice stuff. It also has some things that are pretty hodge-podged, at least they did as of when they issued the catalog. Blair is always a good place to start. As usual, never say never, but I can't come up with any pre-1500 off the top of my head. Most of the ones I...

wcallen

16th c. Starts pretty early. 1510? I don't think I can get a specific date.

There were lots of styles. Some of the early ones aren't as obvious.

Basically happens when you try to connect the pauldron to the arm.

Why?

Wade

wcallen

This will sound really goofy, but I solved the problem another way. I don't use pliers. Goofy, eh? If you are riveting the mail, then you just push the rings together by hand (at least for the 8/9mm stuff), then squeeze the rivet with rivet setting pliers. If you are doing welded mail using a spot w...

wcallen

We did this before, but I don't want to search. It depends. Different people have different goals. You won't ever end up with just one size for every single thing, but many people will tend toward some size for most things. I use 1/8" for most things. It is the most authentic size for attaching...

wcallen

Easy.

go to Admiral Steel and buy it like you do now. But you will have to have it shipped.

That is the most reliable way here in NC. The other possible choice was Precision Steel, but I haven't dealt with them.

Living in the rust belt is just different from the rest of the country.

Wade

wcallen

The quick answer is that grinding/polishing is never quick and easy. In stainless it is just worse. Going through various stages is the norm. Satin Glo - the stuff from formax is what we used. PB80 (for 80 grit version). There are other grits. I have heard of people actually using several levels. It...

wcallen

German. At least that is what everyone 'in the know' I have had anything to do with thinks. Claude Blair certainly thought German. Toby didn't seem to have a problem with it... It is an early odd form of breastplate. There are plenty of illustrations of this style in addition to the really boxy styl...

wcallen

Yup, they are right. A nice German breastplate in the City Museum in Vienna.

I did an interpretation of it too:

http://www.allenantiques.com/R-27.html

They are interesting. Lots of little details that are different from other stuff.

Wade

wcallen

Integral hinges are cool.

And sort of annoying to do.

They really do add to the piece when it is the right thing to do. Glad to see the extra effort.

I have those on 2 pairs of arms. Both done a long time ago.

Haven't tried them again recently.

Wade

wcallen

I don't know where they are right now. The modifications were simple - add two divets, one on each side. The divets are roughly centered in the end flat almost triangular section. The shape is even nice since it gets into tight spaces better than square ends. I didn't do anything else. Mine still ha...

wcallen

Here is one: m I am wishy-washy on the cheek plates. One is real, the other a repro. I have seen burgonets with similar cheekplates, but it is much more normal to have the typical ones on there. Another one, but not nearly as old since I made it: m The acorn is a particular annoyance. Better to do i...

wcallen

I will refrain from other comment, but one thing I can say for sure. You mention the spaulders in TOMAR as 14th c. spaulders with points on the lames. I would avoid any reference to them as period in any real way. Why do I say that? I designed that pattern. Brian got it from our shop. I have no - re...

wcallen

I tried it with one dent. You are right, the rivets do stupid things without trimming. The other dent fixes the problem. It does two things - keeps the rivet from falling over and it allows the additional material somewhere to go in the piening process. Getting a nearly symmetric round head on both ...

wcallen

I made my tool. Pretty simple, actually. I bought the longest fence pliers from harbor freight. Like these: m Then I softened the ends and punched them with a rounded end on a center punch. Matching dimples in both sides and a little re-hardening. Done. The shape is nice, sort of pointy to get into ...

wcallen

Good going Tom. Now con him into some more stuff. Maybe you guys can start him moving along like my kid. More armour each year.

Say hi to James. It has been too long. Maybe he wants to drop by my place and inspire the kid with lots of little armour?

Wade

wcallen

Cool, an order to hang on to. Please do. I guess I am size 9. 1 pr. of these things - black Just because they are cheap and I want a beater pair - 1 pr. of the normal 14th c ankle boot (nailed) - black 1pr. of the italian things with the longer points in turn shoe. The ones with the buckle - I guess...

wcallen

anyone know of a current or upcoming group order? I think a pair of these (I would get more pair if I had tried one on to check fit) would really help me out.

Wade

wcallen

Paypal is fine.

Zip is 27243.

The email address associated with me on PayPal is wadealln@us.ibm.com

Works great to send me notes too.

I am happy to pay. No need to rush on the shipping. Whatever is cheapest and whenever works for you is fine.

Wade

wcallen

OK, sale price should be more than shipping.

Shipping to my place - $56, so I bid $60.

Wade

wcallen

Good lack of overlap with my current volumes. Got any more you want to part with? Toss some shipping in if I take them all?

Anyway, sure I will take them. Shipping to 27243.

Toss me a note at wadealln@us.ibm.com and we can work out the details.

Wade