Any ideas on the shoulders specifically? Is there archaeological evidence for those?

Is there any historical source for a split chain skirt suspended from a belt?

What are you using them for? Boiling leather is a bad idea. 16 gauge stainless and 9oz leather seams fine on its own for sca combat. Though it depends on the size and spacing of the splints. http://armstreet.com/store/armor/medieval-eastern-europe-splinted-etched-pattern-arm-arms-armor-bracers The ...

I think I may have over built my Vambraces. With 16g stainless bands (14 stainless bands waterjet cut for $80 pretty pleased by that) and 9 oz leather they are going to be pretty heavy. Do I need to harden the leather? I am definitely going to wet form it, but I am not sure If I should boil/harden i...

Very cool, thanks.

Any thoughts? Specifically I am looking at the shoulder armor on the left hand stand.

https://41.media.tumblr.com/e7d92f42470 ... o1_500.jpg

I have a pattern I like, and I have decided to use 9 oz leather and 16g Stainless plates. I have some of these rivets: https://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/home/11280-006.aspx I have also decided to commit (as a gradual process) to producing a kit appropriate for a Varangian Guardsmen of Norwegian or...

I am 6'2" 210 and that in theory seems like it would fit me from the measurements. Seems odd to call it a small? maybe I am missing something about the way it is fit? maybe I just have skinny arms?

Not looking to do the elbow or any of the etching, but I want to end up with something like this.

http://armstreet.com/store/armor/mediev ... -armor-sca

I am open on the question of style and era, but something that has a classical knightly look?. Mid calf or higher but not past the knee. Would prefer brown leather.

Looking for offers or suggestions on vendors. Will consider used. I am US size 12.5 or 12 depending on the style.

What will the result of this process be? Is it primarily for cleaning, or will this add a polished/shiny look? Right now my plates are dull grey and they seem to shed black dust on my hands while I work I would be happy enough if they where just cleaned with it so I will try this. Probably large cof...

I have unlaced my lamellar and I would like to clean/polish it before lacing it again. Any thoughts/tricks to make this process easier? The material is titanium if that matters.

I have a set of tombstone shaped 2.5 inch tall titanium plates from about 8ish years ago. At the moment they are laced together with bright red para cord so I have to correct that. What is the best option for laces? My father-in-law has an elite membership to Tandy leather so I have a lot of options...

What if I took a 4X6 and cut a hole though it with a hole saw and rounded the edges until I get a vague torus shape. Maybe a stack of 2x12s? I feel like that would give me a deeper dish with a more consistent shape. Has this been tried? I am assuming it has.

http://imgur.com/a/Lrdho Updated Now with the first lame and a close to finished cop taped together. I did some light planishing but, I think i need a bigger planishing ball. The one I am using is only about 1.25 inches in diameter. Probably going to buy a shot put and weld it to a bit of re-bar. I ...

18 gauge would be plenty for bracers if they won't see much, if any SCA combat. Is there a specific suit of G.O.T. armor you are re creating? I think I will stick to 16 for the bracers and maybe do 18 for the lames. I am definitely not trying to go for any specific suit at the moment. I will be hap...

This project is partly intended as a prop for a Game of Thrones LARP at Gen Con. I am building it with the notion of making it functional partly as an aesthetic/process choice. I feel like armor that isn't at least theoretically protective is jewelry and that is a weird artistic choice for me. Also ...

16g is plenty thick for the top plate if you aren't to crazy. It is probably a little thick for the lower plates, but this is your first time. Just use it and then get more selective when you make the next item. Well I haven't cut the bottom lames out yet, Should I buy a sheet of 18 gauge for them?...

http://imgur.com/gallery/Lrdho/new Second attempt, this time with a dead-blow and the teardrop nylon hammer which I like a whole lot better. I had to stop because the child went to bed, but I feel like this is making more sense to me now. Its like clay really slow, stubborn clay. I also got a pneuma...

No matter what you do, you want to get the "volume" - depth of the piece before you curl it up to the shape to fit your arm. If you don't, it will just curl up more while you get the volume, so you will just have to flatten it back out. Wade I must admit that this sort of confuses me. are you sayin...

Is this a good first project? I picked it because it seemed pretty straight forward. What is the traditional "do this first" project?

The circular saw/plunge cuts option seems like a good one, I will try that.

SH/HA sounds a lot like what trying after i gave up on the stump, except with my a hard hammer. I think I will start with the dead-blow hammer and see how that works.

I used a 4.5 inch angle grinder and a 40 grit flap wheel to carve out my dish. That is pretty much what I am working with at the moment but I have a 9 inch grinder. but it doesn't want to take a bite. How deep would you say the depression is? most of the ones i have seen (only in pictures) are .75"...

Thanks for the reply. Nice tip on the split face hammer, I will look into that. Also, how much depth should I have in my dishing stump? I think right now I have about .25" or so. The sander method doesn't seem to want to make it much deeper. Any tutorials on making a dishing stump out there? when sh...

Keep in mind that this is the first time I have put hammer to metal, so really looking for basic advice on dishing and a few other things. http://i.imgur.com/LVF6feP.jpg This is the start of a shoulder cap for a simple set of spaulders. Based on this pattern: http://nadler.us/spaulders.html I don't ...