The Armour Archive

Cet

Rough from the Hammer is still here and stocked up (with a bunch of new stuff on the way ) I'm still doing custom work too but moving a bit slowly on that.

Cet

Tobar,

e-mail sent

Bruid

A welded mild round top would be $58.00 plus $15 shipping. I ship UPS ground insured unless the customer requests otherwise. Contact me via e-mail and I'll go over measuring info.

Cheers

Cet/Dave

Cet

ldr_gto@earthlink.net

Dave

Cet

12 g mild would be fine. 28 dollars being such a deal, how much would it cost to have you do a weld? no grinding or polishing. $30 for a round $50 for a backpoint or conical plus the cost of the tops. I wont be in the shop next week though and the welded tops are made to order form the stock halves...

Cet

I stock 12ga mild and 14ga stainless tops in three styles conical,backpoint and round. $42 for stainless and $28 for mild plus shipping. I can do 14ga mild but I'll have to check if I have material in stock.

e-mail me if you interested.

Cet

Great to hear Dan!

Cet

Right here:

http://talbotsfineaccessories.com/books/metalwork.html

Cet

I'll answer for Ron in case he doesn't see this. Please forgive my ignorance, but there are only fingers in the kit, isn't the rest of the gauntlet included? (I know the price is too low for that buy not being an armorer I cannot make the rest, so the fingers alone are quite useless to me) I like wh...

Cet

What material do you want it in?

Cet

They are also available from Windrose Armoury. Windrose has them listed at $125 but I'll let Johannes know about the price drop.

Cet

Cet

There are some pics on the St Martin's Armoury site:

http://saintmartinsarmoury.blogspot.com/

The St Martin's pieces are the same pattern but were done as a special order in a spring stainless alloy.

Cet

1/8" rivets or alternately cut copper tacks can be used with the provided hole size.- The holes on the knuckle are distorted from forming and will need to be reamed a bit if using round rivets (they work as is with cut tacks though)

Cet

If you use staples you are making scale armor- which I have done using scales of red brass and 18gs alloy 260 brass for the wire staples. Since the resulting rows of scales are laced onto a backing ( 4-5oz leather in this case) there was no issue of discomfort form the ends of the staples. The armor...

Cet

You should be guided by the size of the pieces you intend to heat treat. Are you doing armor, sword blades, other tools? If you are using it just for heat treating there's no real reason to make the door smaller to keep heat in as once you take the piece to the quench you need to cool the oven down ...

Cet

I would be running on 110. I'm looking at mild, stainless and possibly aluminum. I would be using it primarily for armoring purposes, with some trips into fabricating tools for more armor building (I could see putting together an English Wheel frame, or a helve hammer). Most if not all that you wan...

Cet

Will you be running it on 110 or 220V? What materials do you plan on welding and at what thickness?

The auto mask will be a blessing. Make sure you get one with adjustable shade so you can use it with the O/A rig too.

Cet

It certainly wouldn't be too heavy to wear but that doesn't mean it wouldn't be heavier than it needs to be - what is you intended use?

Cet

You might find the most cost effective route to be adapting a mobile base from a Grizzly or similar tool manufacturer:

http://grizzly.com/products/category.aspx?key=265030

Cet

You can get the crayons from McMaster among other places; they are handy for double checking heat treat and temper as well. Most temp/color charts are assuming a traditional dark smithy whereas many modern shops are brightly lit which changes the apparent color quite a bit.

Cet

I tend to work in the bright red to dull red range and try to stop before the temp drops below that (in the 1000-1200 range) That temp range is actually below forging temps and actually falls more within the range for stress relieving. Try working hotter from 2200 down to about 1600 which should co...

Cet

What springs to mind is that you both may be working the steel within it's "blue brittle range" of 300F to 700F . Within this range steel is actually more prone to cracking than it is at either cooler or higher temps. Kenwrecs' approach of heating the piece to a "nice blue" by wh...

Cet

HI Russ, Can you work with other sorts of files rather than PDFs?

Cet

Are the cracks forming in the area you are working, adjacent to it, it or well away from it? What temperature range are you doing your hammering at?

Cet

Hi Quality chrome gets plated with copper and nickle before the chrome goes on. Nickle has a grayish tone compared to chrome which is very white. Black Chrome ( magnetite plating) is a possibility too if you want a full on Darth Vader look. None are cheap but if you supply the helmet fully polished ...

Cet

Duke Visevald as well, polearm

Cet

The Aztec club is not tricky just a longish mace really and pretty simialr to the Rene' batons some guys are having go at.

As to the scythe, the best way to talk some one out of using a scythe in the SCA is to let him use a scythe in the SCA.

Cet

I think I know the one- e-mail sent with pic.

Cet

Cet

Cool! I will let you know. If you don't mind send me an e-mail so I don't lose the thread of have to worry about the Archive dripping out.

Cheers

Cet

Let me talk to Ice on Monday and I'll see if I can make some arrangement- I do a lot of business with him

Cet

Are you interested for trades or just cash?

Cet

Early great bascinets, such as that shown on the funerary effigy of Jean the Fearless Duke of Burgundy might be the way to go- essentially a pig faced bascinet with plates added over the aventail. I have a few pics of the effigy I can e-mail if it would help.

Cet

I'm trying out threaded mounts for my specialty stakes ( 1.5" thread) into a steel stake stand backfiled with sand. so far so good- switching out is a breeze and the threaded stakes are steady as a rock.

Cet

When would he need it by? I could do a flared skull bascinet for that price range in stainless but coulddn't start on it till some time in January.

Cet

Did he explain his reasoning?

Perhaps he is not saying that they weren't used historical for the joust but rather that they wouldn't meet modern standards for safety since they leave the the neck uncovered except for the mail aventail.

Cet

For 14th century copper alloy applied bands I'm more concerned with cold formability and colour than hardness as the bands will always be backed up by steel or iron. Starting with the metal in an annealed state is usually best and embossed brass work such as seen on some gauntlet wrist and cuff band...