The Armour Archive

Mad Matt

I've got a pair of stainless hourglass fingermittens in stock $550 plus shipping they have a size large welding glove in them.

Also have a pair of type b stainless spaulders strapped $90 plus shipping.

Mad Matt

I'd like to try and make it. Probably gonna be about a 15 hour drive

Mad Matt

I can depending on what kind of a budget you've got. The majority of it needs to be fit to each other which means getting pieces one at a time would only work if the armourer kept them till it's finished.

Mad Matt

This is a prototype learning project. The actual suit is going to be spring stainless. Thanks for the tip about the slots on the fauld leaning back I likely wouldn't have caught that. The waist is a bit too tight all around in both directions. It's supposed to pinch in the wearers waist but it's jus...

Mad Matt

Got the new pics up. Feedback is always appreciated.

Mad Matt

So customer was here today to try on the prototype. Going to change the articulation on the fauld. I think sliding rivets will do the trick for it. Breast and back are a little snug and arms hang slightly low. The real suit is going to have pauldrons instead of munions but the munions on this one ar...

Mad Matt

Hey Hal mini pickaxes work great as a starting point for making hammers. I got 6 of them when they were on sale for $3 at princess auto. I'll get pics for you but pester me about it in case I forget. Didn't use one for a dishing hammer but it would work for that too. Also the most used stake in my s...

Mad Matt

Wow talk about bad luck. I made a bunch of different ones by welding round and square stock onto mini pickaxes. Cost me about $3 each. But you want to just buy one so that's not much help.

Mad Matt

Thanks. According to those rules it looks like stainless steel is not allowed anyone know if that's not true? Also watching the BOTN tv series most national teams have similar armor (time period etc.) Are there any additional requirements for the US team? Might as well post up any additional stuff f...

Mad Matt

I've got several guys talking to me about getting armor for battle of the nations. I've sent BOTN an e-mail asking for their regulations but figured this might be quicker.

Looking for both safety and authenticity regulations.

Mad Matt

I do.

Mad Matt

They're harder than other metals but you really just need to hit them harder. One trick to hitting things harder if you're not already wearing ear protection put some on. You hit harder with ear protection. Also I trim rivets with a set of bolt cutters. Puts a V shaped end on them which makes it eas...

Mad Matt

Hey I've thought about doing the same thing. What are you planning for keeping stock mild steel stuff from rusting?

Mad Matt

I could do it. Price would be somewhere between $7-10K Depending on details and stuff. You can see the black and white suit I'm working on at the moment here https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 869&type=1

Mad Matt

I was planning on making them long enough so that they would allow motion through half of the overlap when they're sitting straight. Which translates to about 3/16 extra space between holes compared to the center leather. 3 leathers would likely have worked better and been easier to do too. But I've...

Mad Matt

Also have a pair of stainless satin finish type B spaulders. Strapped.

$90 plus shipping.

Mad Matt

I've got a pair of stainless hourglass fingermittens in stock. $550 plus shipping. Size large welding glove inside which is about the same as an xl work glove.

Picture isn't the actual pair but basically exactly the same.

Mad Matt

Well I theoretically knew to use 3 rivets. But there would have been a bunch of swearing before I remembered that. I'm also thinking that if I leave the leathers a bit long on the inside of the leg it will allow the inside to extend while the outside compresses. Which should mean that the center lea...

Mad Matt

It moves pretty well. The tassets are going to attach to the fauld with straps and buckles so that will loosen things up there. Will be the sliding rivets on the outside and 2 leathers. If it's a bit too stiff I'll put sliding rivets for a twist at the cuisse and tasset connection. I did experiment ...

Mad Matt

Pics are up. It doesn't fit the mannequin and is sitting on it really funny. The tassets are still held together solid instead of with the 2 leathers that will go in. But you get the idea of where it's at anyway. Lemme know what you think.

Mad Matt

Arms went together and tied in nicely. They've got a bit of roping left to do on them and then polish and paint. Gonna try and stick it all together on a mannequin tomorrow and get some pics.

Mad Matt

Convienent that my munions are straight at the bottom huh? Currently the turning collar nests underneath of the bottom lame of the munion with enough overlap that I could basically make it an extra articulation point. Rather not put a strap there if I don't have to. Thanks for the tips once again yo...

Mad Matt

Also I realize I technically shouldn't really be putting a turning collar and attaching to munions but wanted to learn the turning collar for the finished one since it'll have pauldrons instead and figured it'd keep the paint from getting scratched.

Mad Matt

Basically. Got it rotating forever pretty freely now but the bottom edge connection isn't super tight. Might heat it up and fine tune that fit a bit or just leave it. Should have used 18ga but I ran out and used 16 instead. Now I've just gotta decide if I want to attach the upper part of the turning...

Mad Matt

Thanks I'll try that later. On another note. How freely and what range of motion should a turning collar have?

Mad Matt

Thanks for the video Wade still trying to find the right codex to let me play it though.

Just posted some update pics of the arms.

Mad Matt

Been busy with stuff among them my daughter is immoble from breaking both bones in her shin and have a bunch of e-mails to reply to. Will get to them all tomorrow. Cleared inbox space wasn't full so the images you wanted to send must have been bigger than what's left. Should work now

Mad Matt

If anyone wants to snag the pics and rehost them somewhere I'm cool with that long as credit is given.

Mad Matt

I think I'll take that as a compliment.

Mad Matt

Pics can be found here: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mad-Matt/36453330869

Got the shaping on the legs finished, tassets are rebuilt and the arms are well on their way.

Mad Matt

Luca send me an e-mail and we can talk about it.

Thanks guys I'm really excited about getting back to work.

Mad Matt

Finally really back. Will be getting my website updated soon. Taking orders now. $500 minimum total order value. Not limited to what's on my site. Prices on my site are out of date. No payment till completion. Can work in spring, spring stainless, mild and stainless. Prefer orders for high end repro...

Mad Matt

I'll take the 6"

Mad Matt

Mad Matt

Just want to note that historic designs will work best. They kinda knew what they were doing. Wisby #7 is probably going to be the easiest and use the least material.

Ss fingermittens and spaulders in stock.

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