The Armour Archive

lorenzo2

The hardness on the forming stakes I used it on has lasted for the past five years with no sign of wearing off. It may be that the hard layer is thin and repeated sharpening of the chisels wears through it.

lorenzo2

Ugo's suggestion works really well with wire I use in jewelry though for that it is not usually necessary to heat it. I think it should work well in this application also just don't get the steel too hot.

lorenzo2

I tried it on an experimental guantlet. The quench caused a lot of deformation in the piece which was hard to correct. There was also definitely increased surface hardness. The finished piece was slightly more dent resistant but not much. I have found that the super quench works well on producing a ...

lorenzo2

Hound faced bascinets can be found in various artistic sources through the early 16th cent. There are a couple in Durer engravings. The figures in the latter sources are always background figures and often have mismatched armor. My guess is the artist is showing them on persons either without financ...

lorenzo2

Thanks for the pics, very interesting. However, wouldn't the pieces shown date to the English Civil War?

lorenzo2

Clangs method is good but I have used an even simpler one. My cast shotput is connected to the stake by a piece of half inch rod. I drilled the holes in the shot put and the stake with a bit that was about 10 thousanths smaller than the diameter of the half inch rod. Then I just pounded the rod into...

lorenzo2

Mattmaus, proper raising technique is compression, not stretching. Depending on the methods employed you can actually thicken an area by raising just like clay on a potters wheel. On william hurts site he has some measurements of a cop before and after raising and there is no reduction in thickness ...

lorenzo2

My interpretation of the lines is a quilted defense worn over other armor.

lorenzo2

Thanks, that close armet is sweet

lorenzo2

I second the Northwest pitchworks pitch. Good stuff, smells ok and cleans up easier than the petroleum based pitch.

lorenzo2

here is the home page that he has provided members for photo storage

http://home.armourarchive.org/members/

hope this helps

lorenzo2

Strange, I wonder why there are so many medieval illustrations showing armorers holding the work with tongs? The best answer, based on medieval illustrations, is sometimes they worked hot, sometimes they didn't.

lorenzo2

Thanks for sharing.

lorenzo2

Hobby brass will work fine if it comes annealed. Otherwise anneal it yourself by quenching it.

lorenzo2

I like it

Can we see the back so we can check out the arm hole development?

lorenzo2

Lead has a low melting temperature. You can melt it on the stove in a throw away metal pot and pour it into a tuna can or small frying pan. Caveat one; lead is toxic, wash carefully, keep away from fumes, etc. Caveat two, if there are any fragments of lead adhering to the piece after repousse and yo...

lorenzo2

At brass melting temperatures residual water in the plaster of paris will likely cause it to crack or even explode. Check the internet for jewelry supply companies. They sell wax that you can carve into the required shape and investment that you can pour to make the mold. Investment is a high temera...

lorenzo2

More armory goodness, thanks!

lorenzo2

I love the profile on that helm! The combo of organic curves with angled occulars is dead sexy!

lorenzo2

I like it a lot also. One thing, when you make your next one you may find that inseting the top of the arm a bit more helps give you more ease when lifting the arm. This is a minor point. What you have done looks like it will work just fine.

lorenzo2

Thanks for posting that! Will it go into the Armour Archive pattern page?

lorenzo2

Thanks, sounds like a good approach

lorenzo2

Thanks for posting those. Very nice.

lorenzo2

Can you show which photo you are refering to?

lorenzo2

I am very impressed with the shaping you are getting. I find aluminum work hardens and cracks quite easily. I do have a question, what is your experience with the longevity of the rivet holes? I have found that the rivet holes in aluminum tend to get larger as the steel rivet wears against the side ...

lorenzo2

If, as I suspect that is a religious shrine, then those coins may be offerings from infertile couples.

Or, as William Marshall's father said when William, then an infant hostage, was threatened with death "I have the hammer and the anvils to make more and better sons"

lorenzo2

Takeda and all, if the presentation is to be from the time period of the doublet in Medieval Soldier then the style of the Blois garment would have been common in your father or grandfathers time.

lorenzo2

Consider looking at a copy of the Medieval Tailors Assistant (MTA). It has step by step instructions for the civilian version of an arming doublet, IE military styling but no arming points, reinforcements, etc. Making a civilian doublet first will teach you a great deal you will need for an arming d...

lorenzo2

M Eversburg, sorry did not catch that. I believe you can remove the zinc by a long soak in vinegar and some light wire brushing. Worth a try at least since it would be cheap.

lorenzo2

I think Insane is refering to the fact that that there is no hard evidence that what is interpreted by some as ring mail in medieval art was anything but poorly drawn mail. I. E. ring mail in hollywood movies is probably a fantasy artifact.

lorenzo2

I like that suit very much. Nice attention to detail on the arming garment and mail also. I question only one thing, is the bevor sitting right in the horse back pics? I should have thought it would sit back a tad so you could duck your helmet over it if going to be struck. Or, perhaps it is just po...

lorenzo2

Great story!

lorenzo2

Wow, those came out great. I usually don't like early period helms but your interpretations make one realize just how nice those designs can look. Thanks, more pics please!

lorenzo2

Justus, nice tutorial, excellent illustrations!

lorenzo2

Bump. More progress to report