There are a lot of people who know about bows, just none have bought them from CZ . Persoanlly, i think you'd be much better off looking locally and getting your hands on one. This is a much better indicator of the bows shape than a photo. IMHO.
Will this be for the SCA? if not, this is what i'm doing for my LH WoTR kit so gauge what you neeed from that: Raised 'archers' sallet, like one in the Wallace collection, with cheek plates, sort of, butmostly an open face. Black joined hose pointed to a pourpoint, made of two layers of linen over w...
find a really flat table, piece of metal, put the edge to be matched edge on, on the table. the gaps are visible where it doesn't touch the flat plate, adjust as neccesary.
How i'd do it, is to basically flatten out and blend in the more defined areas around the shoulder blade section to give it a generally flatter appearance, if you get what i mean. leave soemwhat of a blunt shallow groove down the centre to make it look shaped but maybe not as deifned as it is now. a...
the articulation is superb, well done, though, what makes it 16th century? i',m not qUite seeing it? Most mulriple lame legs i know of and have seen from the 16th century are attached to a breastplate of various kinds.
if you're asking me, i wouldn't want to even try to tackle something without the piece in front of me. i think many will say the same without pre determined patterns by yourself. it's require taking a masking tape pattern to get the shapes right.
personally, i'd leave that well alone other than a hand sanding to clena up the face a little. it's a far sight better than mine and mine is perfetly useable
Kickplates are good for brass but beware of plated ones. Push plates (instead of handles) are generally thicker than kickplates, though this means they are smaller.
i know next to nothing about Japanese armour but Effingham does, his site is www.sengokudaimyo.com it's unbeatable, basically . Go there and it's highly likely your question is already answered
they are called hardfacing rods, i know this isn't a lot of help but a local masterwelder should be able to advise on the right rod for the job? or even do it?
Yep, kept all the nots in, lasted 2 years and blew up on me at about half draw . we still have bits of it lying around the shed. anyway, went slightly OT there.
well, without going into book length as has been done by others. you want a piece of ash or yew, your choice which. cut it 6'6" long 1 1/4" square. mark the center point, measure two inches to one sdie and 3 to the other. mark the 3 inch side, TOP. choose the heartwood side for the belly and the oth...
You know--you and Tasha and Kass and a few others here really scare the **&^ out of me. You can take a stick drawing and make the most beautiful stuff out of it.
I used an angle grinder for coarse shaping, a file for refining the shape a bit, and then coarse sandpaper inside a dishing form to smooth off the file marks. I just kept moving the head in a stirring motion, somewhat using like a mortar and pestle. Finished up with finer grits of sandpaper, up to ...
I took the lazy route and had a steel ball cut in half and welded to either end
I'd personally recomend starting with an angle grinder and knocking the edges off. After this, switch to a flap disc and blend the edges together whilst giving it a decent finish.
I've seen knotted ones round and about. I believe the Padded armour company use that method to do the quilting on their Jacks. Not sure how they do it but it produces a nice look