The Armour Archive

Mike F

Erik . . . That was pretty funny.

Brian: Congratulations, and you make sure you do well at your new school. What's your new major?

I'm sure sure someone (not it) will be able to take over for you.

Mike F

The only armor I have just laying around doesn't work. At all.

Definately look at making your own, as it will be able to be tailored to fit you correctly.

Mike F

The Gulf Wars clip is down. It killed my hosting package, sorry.

Mike F

I'd love to do well-shaped historical stuff. I have next to no interest in non-historical pieces (and tolerate them on myself only as a stopgap to get me on the field) and I figured if they're marked with the group of origin, they'd make nice loaner gear, as they'd never really wear out. I'll see if...

Mike F

You may want to play, but I think you'd go into shock if you saw the filth in my workshop. I clean it once every few months, and everything has a layer of nice, magnetic iron filings on it. Actually, I can't figure out what the clamps are for, either. I figured it was to hold the bands, but I'm not ...

Mike F

Well, Brian, sign me up for the journal.

Mike F

No phone number, but I'll e-mail him a link to this post.

Mike F

Geez, Hal. A plastic rod. I owe you a drink, that little bit of knowledge will sure help. Thanks!

Mike F

Well, I'd better not tell you about the two stormtroopers asking if people saw any droids . . .

Oops.

It was actually pretty funny, one of the workers perked up when they mentioned an "emperor" and I caught them pointing to the sky a few times in their conversation. Historical? No, but funny.

Mike F

Is there a market for munitions grade carbon steel armor? I realize the steel costs between four and sixteen times as much (depending on how cheaply you get your mild) but considering how little of the cost of the piece is materials, I was wondering if it was even feasible. I'm trying to make some m...

Mike F

Not to lecture, but things in pairs are best done at the same time, as it's easier to form them then.

Of course, if you're done with one, it's not a problem. Send it off to the AotM, and they'll decide.

Mike F

The washing machine wauld take a beating as would the shirt. Sorry for poor wording.

Mike F

In my experience it's mostly plate over maille in the transition period in Europe and plate in a sea of maille as you describe it from Persia eastwards. There's some really interesting stuff from . . . I forget, some islands off the coast of east Asia had a people with plate and maille armor. Effect...

Mike F

I thought burnishing was the forcing down of high-spots by use of a steel blade or needle.

Mike F

I heard of this way, but get a second opinion, as it seems rather bad for all non-people involved.

Throw some sand in a canvas bag, throw in armor, seal really well and throw in dryer (on no heat) for a half hour.

Jeff's method is probably less damaging, though.

Mike F

If they mean any sort of medium carbon steel when they say carbon steel, it can be heat treated. Basically you can make 18 perform like 16-12 (depending on temper) and 14 perform like a Mack truck.

If they mean low carbon (.03% or less) then it's not really heat-treatable.

Mike F

The masters on the board have sometimes been doing this for 20 years. I told myself I'm giving myself 20 years to get good.

Mike F

One of the lords in my barony is German. He tried explaining something to me once, and he managed to do it in a way an American probably couldn't, and that was using english. He mentioned when you made a helmet you had a sort of relationship with it. It seems so silly to say you have a relationship ...

Mike F

Trade you for my first Kabuto bowl attempt. That's a very nice piece. You're not Halberds, but then again, not even he just started where he is. I need people around me to remind me that I'll get better, and we'll remind you. It's a great piece, and the next will be even better.

Mike F

Try Menards if you have any. That's where I get my plywood. Check hardware and lumber stores in general.

Mike F

Actually, 18-20 gauge seems to be the most common carbon steel gauges I've seen.

http://www.eskimo.com/~cwn/hardening.html

According to Sinric's site, you can probably get something which compares to 16-18ga mild if you treat it right. That's more than enough for a CoP.

Mike F

Well, I may have to do do the brass trim, not that it'll be a bad looking piece. This pointlle sounds interesting. Do you have any pictures of examples so I can see depth, the way it's spaced, etc? It sounds like it may be a chore, but both period and attractive. I'd love to have a really period kit...

Mike F

I'm currently planning my next harness (before my current one is done, even) and I'm looking at a fairly authentic Agincourt (~1400-1420) style kit. I have two questions about etching in that respect: 1) Did they etch steel in that time period? I know they etched brass (Churburg 13) but I'm unaware ...

Mike F

And you bump just as I'm looking at it.

Seriously, he's right on the paintball. I've gone in woodland army issue stuff and never regretted it. I just don't play paintball anymore, and I don't really feel like wearing cammo outside of paintballing ever again.

Buy his stuff!

Mike F

We all started knowing nothing. You'll be surprised the first time you know the answer to a question. It feels good to help people.

Mike F

Fair enough. The toe is formed on a last. Basically make the toe out of wood and stretch the wet leather over it. Then tack it into the last and wait for it to dry. I've never tried it, but that seems to be the way. You'd better keep fighting, I intend to see you at some event sometime. Vauge enough?

Mike F

There are a number of very recent threads on the topic, actually. It seems the safest way is with a 12v battery charger and a tub of salt water. It's like a poor man's EDM (An expensive machining process that disintegrates metal bit by bit to match a carbon form) and should cut as well as etch. You ...

Mike F

Cleats? I hear a lot of pretty reasonable arguments about cleats being a danger to your legs. If you grip in too well, you tend to twist things if hit hard enough or you lose your balance.

Talbot's Fine Accessories has a video on making turnshoes.

Mike F

I couldn't offer you a third of the price no matter how much I want it. Sorry, man.

Mike F

Padding? Combat? You want a somen. I've made two menpo, one to hammer rough and one to surfaced, but neither is absolutely authentic (sorry, Eff, I brazed the nose on one of them because I was out of time for a masquerade ball) and neither is all that great. 22 gauge is very easy to tear, but I've t...

Mike F

I usually do a light resurfacing with a file, but my anvil-shaped-object is cast iron.

Definitely do any work without power tools, you don't want to lose that face.

Mike F

I need to start etching. That's beautiful. Just stunning. Can I have them?

Mike F

It would also help if you were able to do any of the work yourself. Riveting could have you some time for splints and the like, and basically anything you can do on your own saves you money. Saved money = better harness + Less complaints on spending a lot. If you like splinted armor where the splint...

Mike F

There's a someone memorial library online that has a chunk of declassified field manuals, but I can't find it for the life of me.

Mike F

Kent: The materials cost for aluminum is actually greater, and it doesn't take well to most armoring techniques we use. I'm certainly not saying you should stay away from it, but you may consider buying, forgive the phrase, real armor, as you can get some nice inexpensive gear designed for the SCA. ...

Munitions grade carbon steel?

Early 15th century etching