The Armour Archive

Mike F

I think the SCA requirements and the rebated requirements have been mentioned. As far as just looking the part, you could pass for an archer up to about 1415 or so. Assuming you had a bow, anyway.

Pretty neat looking, though.

Mike F

Why would you clean the inside of the legs? A russet finish, forge blackening, or paint will prevent further rust.

Mike F

So, I'm looking into making a 15th century pavilion, and considering the cost of the raw fabric ( ) I'm going to make the effort to do it right. How would I use fibre reactive dye (m) in order to dye 25 yards of 45" width duck? Should I cut it up first? Should I do it all at once? Does it matter if ...

Mike F

I should probably use blankets. I use my thigh. With a full leg harness, I think padding the knee is largely useless. That being said, I think it's a rule in some SCA areas. I think it may be required in Northshield. No, I was wrong. It's society. 7. Leg Armor: a. The kneecap and both sides of the k...

Mike F

I always thought the Nameless One was B. I guess in context I could see it. *shrug*

Mike F

I'm looking mostly for anatomy lessons, yes. I know someone who ruptured his spleen in an auto accident, and that's the only reason I know that you can even do that (and how easy it is). I'm fairly familiar with Fiore (he inspired my love of rondels and my decent study of dagger combat) but I'll che...

Mike F

It's a morbid question, I know. However, armor was designed to protect from weapons and prevent vitals from being damaged. So my question is this, where is the human body vulnurable. For example: The inner thigh has the femoral artery, which would cause someone to bleed out very quickly. The throat ...

Mike F

I had some . . . I think 1.5" rattan. The sword was impossible to use. Shaved it to 1" across the flats (so it was vaguely sword-shaped) and now it's a nice little piece. 1" would be illegal... Huh. Well, in my sword's defense it seems right, and the marshal tool marks it as legal. Perhaps that mea...

Mike F

David: I've considered you inexperienced but learning. While I understand you have issues with some and you want to see people stop insulting DVA, you're being a bit harsh to everyone. If you stand by what you've said, then stand by it. Conviction is rare nowadays. However, so if having the strength...

Mike F

I've recently expanded my view to cover a soft kit as well, and one thread in particular on the Archive has a tremendous amount of information regarding soft kids from c1400.

http://forums.armourarchive.org/phpBB2/ ... +15th+garb

Mike F

David, I say this with all due respect, and against my wishes no not post in this thread. Walk away from the keyboard for 15 minutes, go watch some TV, read a book, or get a snack, then come on back and read what you wrote.

Mike F

Back point is good for late 14th early 15th century. Top is a pseudo sugarloaf, and tends to be earlier, but not the crusades. This is a possability, but not a wonderful one. It's also a bit late period for you. Get a back-point bascinet, pad it, etc, and have a removable grill. Take off the grill a...

Mike F

I have a 12ga bowl, a 14ga front and visor and a 16ga rear. A 12ga bowl and a 14ga remainder is probably more than enough. It gets very, very heavy.

Mike F

I had some . . . I think 1.5" rattan. The sword was impossible to use. Shaved it to 1" across the flats (so it was vaguely sword-shaped) and now it's a nice little piece.

Mike F

Finish my %#@^ing harness.

Mike F

Chef, please. While I agree with you that this seems to be publicity, it could also be he was just bored and looked up his own company. We've all made our positions clear, and nobody is going to change their mind at this juncture. In siz months or a year, I'll check back and see how he's doing, and ...

Mike F

Later than that. Tassets were completely* unknown during the Battle of Agincourt (1415), so I'd put it at later, but not, say, 1480. The single-piece (I think) breastplate shows it's not a particularly late design, and the limbs are all of the 1380-1425 style. I'm not sure when tassets first started...

Mike F

Nissan Maxima wrote:. . . in a battle where armor was worn they would use pole arms (naginata, magamaki) , mass weapons ( tetsuba) and spears (yari), just like their western counterparts.

I agree. This is why I suggested the yari as a better choice.

Otagiri: Ã£Â

Mike F

If I understand it correcly, a daito is a pair of swords (big and small, somewhat literally). Small difference. If you give the knight a rondel it'd balance it out, but I'd still bet on the knight.

Mike F

Of course, blunt trauma would be effective. I don't know about a yari's penetration, but I'd still say it's a better bet than a katana.

Mike F

I doubt there is a single school Japanese swordmanship, modern or classical, which does not teach a sword thrust. While Japanese mail is inferior to European mail, I don't think European mail is completely invulnerable to either the cut or the thrust (although the katana cut is obviously not the at...

Mike F

Martukka: My view: Let's assume English for the Eurpopean. We'll assume he's versed in Fiore, and is aware of the Japanese way of combat, but only to the level of seeing them fight a few times (as is the Samurai re: the knight). The Katana is not made for thrusting, and the blade won't penetrate mai...

Mike F

Oh, no no no. Pennyround isn't SCA. (That's why I'm making a more accurate visor for when I swap harnesses in the SCA.)

Pennyround is Belegarth, and probably most other foam weapon games.

Mike F

Mike: It'd be fun, yes. I doubt it'd be indicative unless they fought in period armor made from period materials, and, of course: to the death. The question seems too open-ended to answer well. As has been mentioned, terrain, etc. Although, oddly, both sides had a general, "The boss is down, maybe w...

Mike F

DVA: Just mentioning a way to do it with less equipment (and with non-technical terms, as, again, I don't know the technicals myself). If you have a company that can do it for you, believe me, you're better off having them do it. They'll know the best way.

Mike F

DVA, George: I'm not an expert in plastics. Moraine Plastics is in town, and I know enough people there to ask specifics, but they do large-volume injection, not mold design. If you need process advise, there you go. I'm not entirely sure if the plastic you mention is thermomold or thermoset. If it'...

Mike F

Dieterick: While I disagree regarding plastic being a better alternative for a starting fighter, I see your niche. As a businessman, I unserstand this. I'm glad you're ostensibly making money, but it doesn't become a businessman to brag about any of that. It casts doubt upon your sincerity when you ...

Mike F

I think you may have made the pattern taper too much. It's almost a rectangle with pieces missing. I can dig up a photo of my pattern if I can find it. I do reccomend you rivet the cuff together. This will make it look like a tube with a large notch cut out for the bottom of the hand. (over simplifi...

Mike F

Yes. I've had a massive amount of problems and only a few bits of success. I'll share what I know. Work it hot. I mean it. If it goes below red, it'll crack and you'll throw it away. Hold it by the top of the piece on the side away from you. It'll reduce warpage. Be very, very, VERY careful when for...

Mike F

The AEMMA is not part of the SCA, but they have a rule that even covered parts of a harness need to be based on a period example, and the harness must go together. That being said, they're a horse of a different color.

Mike F

He's have to be careful to not burn a hole right through the cover, though. Coke is some powerful stuff.

Mike F

Fiore's dagger stuff is usually a grapple after the swing has started, as that's when the attacker is most vulnurable. It's also a bad time to put your thumb in harm's way.

Mike F

Speaking from experience: My first metacarpal looked like that. Put it on a shelf and start a shop-art collection. Your method of raising the knuckles on the ball is the simplist and, in my opinion, the best method. Here's what I did (although my tools won't do it, this was back with Cad and Talbot ...

Mike F

He knows about Zinc, never fear.

Looks like it works pretty well. Good job. Watch out for those horseshoes, though.

Do you have that on a dimmer switch/rheostat?

Mike F

20ga steel is a pleasure to work. You really need spring steel to make it work, though.

Have you tried working hot? It's neat. Like butter.

Cupric alloys work harden quickly, mind you.

Vat dye technique and various pavilion questions

To kill a man