The Armour Archive

Mike F

So . . . The chieftains having maille was correct though, right? That's the only period armor I know of for the Norse. Then again, it's a wide period. (The Isle of Mann was Norse until the early 14th century, I believe)

Mike F

I'd say a hounskull would look absolutely wrong on the illumination helm, but it would be strange looking but not unprecedented on the actual pictured piece.

Mike F

I'd be inclined to disagree on one point. If you get spring steel you probably won't need to replace them in your lifetime. I'd suggest 3/4 legs and articulated arms. Then with either a Corizana (or kit, as it's add leather/cloth and rivet) or a CoP over a maille hauburk. A bascinet would finish thi...

Mike F

Not to mention you really shouldn't do the math on O2 costs, gram for gram, on those little tanks. I go through a LOT of those with my dinky MAPP/Oxy rig. I don't reccomend them, the pen-tip makes it useless unless you're cutting or you're an ace at gas welding. I'm constantly considering an EZ-burn...

Mike F

16ga raised is different than 16ga dished, and hardened carbon steel helps a lot.

Look, this probably isn't what you want (it's a bear to fight in on foot) but this would keep as much weight as you wanted off your neck. I suggest a bargrill for fighting, though.

Mike F

Late period, I'd bet it's lined on the inside of the breastplate (note all the rivets around the openings), gilded and probably etched, not much depth in the breastplate, I'm actually unsure how the belt stays down there . . . This is so utterly out of my period of study that I can't get you much of...

Mike F

PMing about the body armor

Edit: Can't afford it. Wish I could.

Mike F

Mild can be a subsitute for practice if you work it hot. If you work it cold, the high-carbon steel would work harden much faster. If you get something you really like out of the blade you can either keep it for display or case harden it. Granted, I don't think you can put an edge on a case-hardened...

Mike F

Membership is $35/year, and you can't fight heavy weapon <i>at an event</i> unless you're a paid member. I don't know about boffer. On the other hand, you can go to practices without being a paid member (Here, say you're a member of the SCA. Good, now you're an unpaid member. ) and spend an extra $3...

Mike F

I've seen cheaper, but you don't really want cheap over quality. You want flashback arrestors. If it doesn't have them, don't buy it. Also, take a course on welding or ask someone who knows to teach you all the ins and outs. We had an entire portion of a welding course simply dedicated to teaching u...

Mike F

He's a bit young to be bringing beer to anyone. Just checking the thread before heading out for the night, and I wish to agree with the "Just do it" crowd. You'll end up with lots of garbage, but keep in the open, so to speak, post work on the AA, be involved in local groups, etc. and eventually som...

Mike F

I don't know exactly who's in your area, but Raito (who is) is a very busy man, especially considering he's currently the prince of Northshield (SCA stuff, he's busy beyond belief for the next seven months or so). However, if you get in touch with him, he may be able to spare you a bit of time to ta...

Mike F

The bearing on the gear itself? Makes sense.

I found out about the 1/2" machined down. Works pretty well.

$12.00

Mike F

You, sir, have your bid for $7.50.

I got the gears a few days ago, sorry I didn't tell you sooner, Mad rush to get them installed. I had to file down a dowel for a decent connection. Bah, this is why you PLAN first, then buy the parts.

They're great gears, thanks again.

Mike F

Thanks, Mal, I was told to check out that book, but I forgot the name. (I think that's where the column charge info came from)

I knew there was a reason I made peace with you.

Mike F

You do realize how tiny those bits are, right? Those are meant for big metalworking lathes, and those are just a replacable cutting edge, while there's a large toolholder behind it.

Mike F

The Japanese smooth out their blades with similar tools made from old sword blades, but I don't think you'd want to try to do large amounts of stock removal with one.

A hardened blade against the softer annealed steel will work, however.

Mike F

Yea, my MAPP torch doesn't heat too quickly. It also tends to leave it too cold to work without cracking.

You can make a sort of pseudo-forge with firebrick and use the torch with that, or you can make a gas forge.

Mike F

You ALL lose, since, amongst other numbers, I have 42.

Mike F

Sasha: Actually, according to Dr. Allan Williams, Europe used cast iron in tempering processing as early as the 15th century.

Mike F

Chef is right. I forgot to mention that. The heavily armored Men at Arms were the ones who actually recieved the charge, and did a good amount of damage. It's the period I'm doing my harness from, so I'm sorry I missed even discussing that. To talk about armor differences, English armor was deisgned...

Mike F

You've hit my pet battle, so I'll explain what I've pieced together thus far. And for the record, I spell it Agincourt, but both are correct (or at least have been used). First, consider the condition of the troops. The English were living off the land for quite some time, most were filthy and quite...

Mike F

Effingham has a bargill idea (originally for Japanese persona) on www.sengokudaimyo.com It's either in the "men yoroi" or the "kabuto" sections. If you can't get steel really warm (forges, etc.) I think you could deal with a good cobalt drill bit and a welder. It'd get a little more iffy with only r...

Mike F

This is hardly a turtorial, but here's something for the shorter greatswords.

http://www.varmouries.com/wildrose/fiore/fiore.html

I know a guy who uses a 6' greatsword like a bastard sword. Just remember, gripping the blade (halfswording) is usually disallowed in the SCA. Not always, mind you. Check with your local marshals.

Mike F

I think it should be given to whoever has sold JT the most 1050 sheet steel.

Mike F

Not to mention not all greaves and cuisses were closed. That would hurt. A lot.

Mike F

Don't forget jousting and horseman armor needs less flexibility than footman armor. Some of the early 15th Century English stuff was purely for foot work, so there's a place to get comparisons, I think.

Mike F

This is why swings of >90 degrees are outlawed (at least around here).

Personally, I'd put my money on more power from a one-inch shot with a glaive using the hips right than a Braveheart swing with a greatsword.

Mike F

I'm going to share my insane bench with you. I have two other benches, but this is my portable, and is slightly heavier construction and smaller than my real benches. The top is 2ftx2ft of 3/4" plywood on top of another piece of the same, glued and screwed in from the bottom. It's supported by 2x4s ...

Mike F

I don't think it gets much smoother as you go up. I tend to do satin at about 120, actually, but my armor is junk. The simplest way to see good russet on armor is to check out Japanese stuff. Try www.sengokudaimyo.com and look at some of the stuff Eff has. Anything brown and kinda grainy is russet. ...

Mike F

Trial by Drinking?

I'm up for Thrilling But Deadly, myself. Perhaps winner could be decided by a Lawn Jart Catch Competition?

Mike F

Hey, Doug, I'll see you the 21st before the conference. I just have to see if anyone down there will let me crash on the floor.

And buy his vervelles. They're nice.

Mike F

I have it on a different computer I think. I can get it for you if you want.

Mike F

Fool! You're bating me and messing with a power you cannot hope to understand!

I have my ticket, thanks.

Mike F

I used mineral spirits on an arcade control panel, but that didn't work very well. I know with firearms it's usually a very mild sandblasting before the bluing, and since you don't let it contact anything (including your hands) in bewteen, it's clean. I dunno if you wanna sandblast the helm, though.