The Armour Archive

Black Swan Designs

The cut of the chest is globose, but we shot Scott without any padding. To make the garment cost effective (and because I have no way of knowing if *all* gaments of this style were padded, the one in the museum may be an anomoly for all I know) I opted not to put any padding in at all. However, as s...

Black Swan Designs

We put in a new picture without a hood so you can see the shape a bit better. This version also features a less offensive hair job.

We're still working on photos of the plain linen version that shows all the seaming in detail.

Gwen

Black Swan Designs

Looking at the picture of you it's hard to see what's you and what's your clothes, so I'd hesitate to make a determination either way. The other thing is that this is a brand new product; I've only seen them on the dozen or so guys who were my testers, so my eye isn't tuned to saying "yeah, that wil...

Black Swan Designs

honest opinion time Well, your chest and waist measurements are bang on for a Medium, so you're fine there. You're a bit shorter than the average I built these for (5'8"-5'10"), but we can make a Short as easily as the Long, so that's no problem. You have a tiny pooch at the waist, but it shouldn't...

Black Swan Designs

Household animals might be given names, and two or three are mentioned in 15th C. schoolbooks: 'Copple' (meaning 'crested') for a hen, 'Kob' for a fighting cock, and possibly 'Whitefoot' for a dog.

Medieval Children, Nicholas Orme, Oxford University Press, 2001, pg.68.

Black Swan Designs

No, I don't think so. Although my 15th C. garment might work, I don't think it is perfectly suited because armour was different 1300-1400 than it was 1400-1500. For example, 14th C. armour has less plate and more mail, so you'd want a padded foundation garment for 14th C. By the 15th C. armour was e...

Black Swan Designs

I didn't take it that way Tom, so no worries! I try to remember what it was like before I had aquired the knowledge I do now, and I agree with you- sometimes it just doesn't make sense if you haven't studied it. However, if you can see similarities in the way medieval people approached clothes and c...

Black Swan Designs

Yes.

Gwen

Black Swan Designs

I wish I could tell you but I buy our stuff in person, and I've never had to buy by weight. The pourpoint is made of the same weight as we use for the rest of our clothing and comes out about the weight of a modern vest. Some time ago I ordered a weight swatch card from Fabric.com so I could answer ...

Black Swan Designs

Is the garment you market padded in any way? This version is intended for civilian wear and is not padded. If the original WAS padded and had provision for points was it intended to be worn UNDER something else?(As the 15th century doublet is a foundation garment for a gown for example.) The origin...

Black Swan Designs

At what point in time do full hosen start being used by knights/men at arms under full plate armour in place of split hosen/chausses? Based on the preponderance of examples, I'd say 1440 is really safe. Do the full hosen actually cover the entire hip, buttock and groin area as modern hose sometimes...

Black Swan Designs

Wait just a cotton pickin' minute! You BOUGHT that armour????

Like Ricky Ricardo said, I think you have some 'splaining to do my darling...

Gwen

Black Swan Designs

Oh, I don't mind the tangent, or answering questions. It's probably good to keep the info here, so people can better understand what type of hose work best for the period they're doing, and the garments they're wearing with the hose. Nick, I'd say turn of the 15th is probably about right. By then th...

Black Swan Designs

Hi Tom- Regarding your "black tie" comment, it's not exactly a fashion thing, it's a class/status thing. Think of it this way- in America: Very rich people have their suits custom made by Armani. Rich people buy their Armani suits off the rack. Well off people buy their suits at Nordstroms/Saks Aver...

Black Swan Designs

Well, I was probably a bit more general in that reference than I should have been. I probably should have said "Among the historical clothing geeks I communicate with, 1380/90 is a generally accepted date for the *earliest* forms of joined hose." That's not to say or infer that everyone started wear...

Black Swan Designs

That is absolutely hilarious!!

Gwen

Black Swan Designs

Thanks to my darling husband for his comments, but honestly, I completely forgot about livery for Thomas, or I would have made him some. Bad, Gwen, no cookie for you! I'm afraid my feet of clay are showing again.... Anyway, Thomas is losing weight at a fantastic clip, and will be showing off his new...

Black Swan Designs

Everyone seems to have covered this pretty well, but I'll add my 2Ã‚Â¢, as that's what I do. Start from the fact that in this period, there is absolutely no consensus on clothing names. Words are using what seem to us randomly and contradictorily, although they probably made sense to the people who ...

Black Swan Designs

I know, I know, I struggled with wording that for some time, it's a delicate thing to get around. I was trying to be diplomatic and informative at the same time. Is there a way to say "big butt" diplomatically?

Gwen

Black Swan Designs

What do you mean? Thomas has livery. I'm confused.

Gwen

Black Swan Designs

Hi Tom- what is the function of the garment? I know this has been debated before, but do you see it as merely outerware or is it a form of arming garment? Boy oh boy, do I ever rue the day that this garment was identified as a military garment. This is most emphatically a civilian garment, as was th...

Black Swan Designs

I probably should also mention that we released a companion garment to the Charles of Blois doublet Pourpoint, 14th/15th C. [img]http://www.historicenterprises.com/images/products/big/474_large.jpg[/img] The pourpoint is a great, historical way to hold up your legwear, whether you prefer chausses, s...

Black Swan Designs

I'm glad you edited your post Klaus, as it saved me some time- I was going to send you a PM telling you exactly that. In my experience, off the rack only fits about 85% of the population; the percentage drops the more fitted the garment gets. I am quite sure you will have your hands full with people...

Black Swan Designs

See? -this- is why I didn't want to take your money on the pleated coat!

Gwen

Black Swan Designs

Noe- Send me your address and I will send swatches. Mykaru and Ezsa- I am happy to use a client's materials, provided they are appropriate to the garment. If you can send me a small sample (1/2" x 1" is enough) I will let you know. I would prefer to know the garment fits you before cutting up your f...

Black Swan Designs

I agree about the photo, and we're working on getting photos of the plain linen version as fast as we can. At the moment our model is a tad busy for some reason...

Gwen

Black Swan Designs

New from Black Swan Designs The doublet (pourpoint) of Charles of Blois http://www.historicenterprises.com/misc/Historic-123-051506WM10.jpg We have made every effort to copy this garment as faithfully as possible using patterns drafted from the original preserved in the Musee Historique des Tissus i...

Black Swan Designs

New from Black Swan Designs The doublet (pourpoint) of Charles of Blois http://www.historicenterprises.com/misc/Historic-123-051506WM10.jpg We have made every effort to copy this garment as faithfully as possible using patterns drafted from the original preserved in the Musee Historique des Tissus i...

Black Swan Designs

Glen- The point is it's all about what people think, if whatever I am saying or not saying is intimidating people or pissing them off. Jeff and I don't want to be islands forever, ya know? And don't even get me started on the farb factor in that picture, there's at least a dozen things that are wron...

Black Swan Designs

OK, still biting... What words does one use to infer accessibility rather than showing off? I'll continue to offer myself as an example for the purpose of information and illustration. I post a picture with a caption explaining (to my mind) what's happening in the picture as clearly and emotionlessl...

Black Swan Designs

Ok, I'll bite on that one, especially the last bit about perceived intent. I post the photos as a banner of sorts- "Hey, we're over here! Anyone else want to come and play?" I think of it as livery, so like minded people can find us. Following your logic, how do you suggest I control the way it is p...

Black Swan Designs

A corrollary question- is there any valid point to posting pictures of our respective endeavors if they will inspire little more than supreme indifference? I've been posting pictures and descriptions of what we're doing to see if there's anyone else out there who might be interested, but after readi...

Black Swan Designs

And my annoyance continues. Did it ever occur that they were doing a SHOW? That they were not doing a "living history presentation"? And even so, that the definition of "living history" that's being presented as fact and accepted includes and is geared towards the public and public education?? La Be...

Black Swan Designs

I woke up at 5AM really annoyed, and it took me a few minutes to realize that it wasn't because Jeff was snoring, or that the cat was laying on my legs. I was annoyed because of this silly thread, and having my name brought up, when I have tried scrupulously to stay out of discussions like this. Why...

Black Swan Designs

Right. As if after washing 2 loads of muddy, mildewy clothes and dealing with a mud spattered caparison I thought you had been anywhere else?

Thanks for the pics Lorelei!

Gwen

Now available: Charles of Blois

Now available: Charles of Blois