The Armour Archive

RoaK

How about a COP in armor from 1400 to 1425...

Just asking.

RoaK

I'll be in touch. Yes, Iâ€™m thinking brigandine would be more accurate. I need something that can adjust to my waist. A solid breastplate is a bit out of the question for me. Iâ€™m just being honest hereâ€¦ NP my target date is Pennsic 38... or August 2009 I work in 1050-1065 spring, but I have a f...

RoaK

NP my target date is Pennsic 38... or August 2009

Kenwrec Wulfe wrote:I work in 1050-1065 spring, but I have a full queue until June. (I am a hobbyist armourer who has a normal, boring full time job)

RoaK

Ok, I've got the go ahead for finishing up my 1425-50 based kit. My instructions are from the wife is to do it right this time so this is my last suit of armor... I know that's a 25 year gap but I'm still in the planning stages. I'm going t be a well off professional soldier for hire during the late...

RoaK

You could have a few more plates come down at a taper from the pauldron to the elbow joint. You wouldn't have to use armor grade plates for that as they would just be cosmetic. Just a thought. Meh. Got an arm and some detail shots. I forgot to weigh the damned thing, so I'll have to do that. I'm not...

RoaK

Great post, I had not idea stainless chain had this problum.

On a footnote... if I ever tryed to put any of my armor in the dishwasher my wife would kill me... and you... just becouse...

RoaK

mattmaus wrote:Opnions? Would the bottom edge of a CoP being white be too close to a white belt?

No, not at all. A white edged COP is a white edged COP... a white belt is ... well... a white belt. If someone can't tell the difference that's on them, not you.

Go for it.

RoaK

I recently got a set of stainless steel clamshell gauntlets from Achcraft/Baker. At $135.00 after S&H I must say they are a very good buy for the money in my opinion. I had a pair of their mild steel clamshells for over three years and I liked them. Since Iâ€™ve started having an increased inter...

RoaK

After doing 20 years in the army I just can't see me pulling guard duty in any serious manner.

RoaK

I'm in the maket for a set of these. Who is GDFB?

RoaK

...90% practice and the desire to improve, 10% just looking good.

RoaK

God bless anyone who makes kettle helms...

Are you going to roll the brim edges over some rod to help it resist bending out of shap when it gets hit or just double it over?

RoaK

Hey you can look like a rabble and still be bad assed.... look at my household....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0yPedQtk-4

Ewen MacSuibhne wrote:Marching to the field usually gives a good military impression. Provided your group can keep step and look the part. Otherwise you look like a rabble.

RoaK

I just noticed something... Shouldn't that brown strap go from where it's at on the bottom, across the plam of the hand and then attach IN FRONT of the thumb on the top?

That would hold the glove and gauntlet on the hand better.

Just saying...

RoaK

I agree 100% go with this stuff to sew your gloves.

Believe it or not Super Wal Marts had a really good sinew in their sewing department a while back. I used it on my lamallar armor.

Fearghus Macildubh wrote:Nylon sinew is your friend.

RoaK

Maybe he was trying to whack the guy stepping on him in the turnshoe with his basket hilt... Really though, I salute out of combat back through my own line if at all possable... and like Nissan said, if I get whacked a few more times doing it... of well, it still beats laying on the ground. the dude...

RoaK

I feel your pain.

try this

RoaK

Ugh!

I'm so glad I went with the Ashcraft/Baker SS clamshells...

And at 135 bucks they are a good deal.

RoaK

Not to get this thread back on track or anything

But I couldn't find those rivets as well, where are they and how much do they cost?

Effingham wrote:Mikael, where are the rivets on your website? I can't find them.

Effingham

RoaK

Looks like a little over 40 bucks for 100 of them... Let us know how they work out will you? I'm thinking I'm going to use these on my next COP and I'm interested in how sharp the edges are that go against the material. Can you give us a product review? I like those i ordered some but i needes about...

RoaK

Sigh... The 21st century is slowly killing us...

matt9625 wrote:Yeah i could but ive got money sitting in my paypal account i want to spend. I dont really wanna mail in a money order for washers. To lazy .

RoaK

Funny thing is we got a guy in our household take hat would fit on... He likes to hit people with big axes...

RoaK

Can you call it in? Or... mail it in, you know, the old fashoined slow way...

matt9625 wrote:Ive seen those. I was going to get em but they dont take paypal. And im not giveing a card over the net. Secure or not. Too bad cause thos would of worked great.

RoaK

How about these? I think I'm going to use them on my next COP (after the rivets on my current one blows all the way out)... the biggest problum I now have are the sharp headed tandy copper rivets cutting through the outside of my shell (double layered duck canvas).

http://www.revival.us/index.asp?PageAct ... ProdID=304

RoaK

Use two layers... a COP takes tons of sudden stress; and most those points are where rivets are around your gut area... aways double your stuff... and make sure the rivet heads aren't sharp... I'm going to be assembling a Coat of Plates using the same kit, and have a couple questions: I was thinking...

RoaK

bleddyn wrote:Ive got copper rivets from tandy so no problem there...

Careful, those tandy copper rivet heads have sharp edges on them and will cut your material over time. Been there, done that, got the COP with rivets cutting the outside shell....

Make small leather washers if you can...

RoaK

Greetings...

Most Korean armor was padded cloth (silk) sytle armor much the same as Mongol armor; lots of hardened leather or steel plates worked in, sometimes under, the material for added protection to vital areas.

Are you planing on fighting in your armor?

RoaK

Great job, very well done for a first try.

The funny thing is even though you are using it for LARP you ended up making a very period helm; hand sewn liner, homemade buckles and all. The 14th century mafia would say, â€œheâ€™s a friend of oursâ€

RoaK

Been wearing a kettle for the better part of a year now (and loveing it) and all I padded was the inside of the kettle like a regular helm. I have had no problems with the bar protection on the sides and back. I wear a padded arming cap (you can just see the white of it in the picture) and it gives ...

RoaK

I love Kettle hats...

I like the steep angle on the brim; it helps slide downward shots off your helm...

Have you given the brim the beating test yet? Some armories turn the brim around a small rod to resist the beating brims sometimes take.

RoaK

Neat, but that is a parade shield... were ones made for war built like that as well?

Alcyoneus wrote:It is this particular item:

http://www.philamuseum.org/collections/ ... 71741.html

RoaK

Another great scource for rattan: m They have people who are in the SCA who work there so they know what your looking for. Good luck establishing the SCA in Mexico... there have been attempts to get the SCA stated in Mexico before but they tend of fade away for one reason or another. Most groups sta...

RoaK

4 1/2 to 5 inch lag bolt...

You can get them at any Lowes or Home Depot.

RoaK

A chaos symbol or flames need to be on that cod piece...

RoaK

Wow, that looks like a good idea...

A lag bolt up throught the handle and about two and a half inches of prong to wrap tape around would work great. What is the diamater of those balls at the ends of the hilt? I think they have to over one inch so they can't go through a legal bargrill.

Need list of armories who work spring steel

Re: Question for SCA guys RE white trim, too close to a belt

Ashcraft/Baker Stainless Steel Gauntlets Review....

Re: yeah

Re: seen