The Armour Archive

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I'd thought about that. On the first two, I'm pretty sure I could have. I thought about doing it, too, but I wanted the "clean" look that you get without mechanical attachment, and I'm pretty sure it would be more hassle than it's worth to make flush rivets on this scale. I could be wrong....

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Everything I know about working with copper and brass I learned from the back end of a torch. Years of running copper for plumbing and refrigeration came in handy on big projects -that is to say, physically LARGE ones- like steampunk lamps , but current projects are starting to take me beyond my dep...

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Vettor Venier wrote:3. Patiently explain to the fighter that, if he must use two weapons, he might consider spear-and-sword, which actually has a small amount of historicity.

How about sword and axe? or sword and mace?

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You probably want a small TIG.
A little Miller Maxstar will do you just fine.

I really don't think you can get a TIG that's too small for your current purposes, so you don't have to worry about not having enough machine.

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It's a compliment, in that Talbot is one of the more accomplished armorers/armor historians here on the archive.

PM sent

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protip: NOT latex paint.

Oil-based spray paint worked fine as a blanket resist for me, and I detailed with a fine brush and some rustolium I had laying around. If your needs are more detailed than that... can't help ya.

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I have. No noticeable difference. Transition from mild to stainless made a difference, though.

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And an identical reproduction was used by a LH reenactor portraying a scythian. I have the pictures on another hard-drive.

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I've seen them hewn down from an untreated 4x4

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That also becomes an enormous pain when you need to work with multiple layers, like brass onto copper onto brass.

My only solution there was to hard-solder one layer and soft-solder the other. Of course mechanical fasteners, like rivets, also work fine.

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"I'll show you mine if you show me yours" only works if you actually show something.

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*whistles*

most impressive.

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A blade that wide with a sharpened false edge that extends that far down the blade screams "kilij" -which is Turkish. That hilt construction -the tang of the blade is essentially "glued" into the hilt, usually without pinning- is common from Arabia to India, but not much farther ...

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Split-socket spearheads are friction fit. As a rule, you either don't pin them or use a wooden pin, because as you throw it the head will seat itself further down the shaft, and a metal pin will only wear an ovular hole in the shaft and the steel and cause eventual rattle. And for the love of God do...

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Can you find provenance for a pollaxe in 14th century Italy? I was under the impression that recent scholarship pointed to the pollaxe being a weapon peculiar to France, England and the Low Countries. Incidentally, I HATE the website you link to. Any company that resizes my browser window does not d...

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Very likely Turkish, called a kilij ("sword" -but that makes it a turkish sword). Almost definitely not Indian or Afghani.

I'm not sure if Scott Rodell is still over on Swordform -haven't gone there for years- but IIRC, he was very knowledgeable about central asian weapons.

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GuntherofOrkney wrote:14ga is the minimum gauge allowed for SCA use without overlaping plates.

wut.

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I always thought that type of salade was hideous, so I never saved pics of them.

Describe the fluting, please? I'm unfamiliar with that term.

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magnificent

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Hey, what's he pissed about! I just said his armor is obviously the cooler of the two!

Des, sorry for the kinda/sorta thread-necro. Normally this name is pretty unique.

That's what I thought, for about 15 years.

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That's fantastic, Milesent. I've only once before work that surpasses it.

You may be interested to look at Benoit's work, here: http://behydezell.deviantart.com/
He have me a mark to aim for.

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Okay, seriously, what the f__k?

I posted a thread on this triptych, probably eight years ago. When I opened the thread my first thought was some wicked thread necromancy, but I was going to swear I had posted about the OTHER armor, and that obviously I must have had poor taste at the time.

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The old rule of thumb I learned on welders was never buy a Stick machine that wasn't a Lincoln, and never buy a MIG that wasn't a Miller. With TIG, you've got options. But other than Lincoln and Miller/Hobart, what are the good options? I'm in the market. Also, Anvil Dragon? TIG produces A LOT of ma...

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Mercs. That is what they were famous for, after all. It's entirely plausible for Swiss Mercs to be... well, pretty much anywhere in Europe during the 16th century.

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Oh how I wish you extended this into later period...

Most excellent, and fascinating.

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Baron talk like Code Monkey!

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I think it is worthwhile pointing out that as a general cultural rule, anything you observe as having a ceremonial function, once had a practical function. What is the time period of your interest? If it is classical greece and you want to use a labrys with a Corinthian helmet and springback greaves...

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If you don't have a welder, do you have a torch?

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Oh good. Then I wasn't imagining having seen it.

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Thanks for the article it was very informative. Being a blacksmith already I have a vauge idea of what Im getting myself into and a few tools to get started with. The thing that will give me the most trouble will be the hammers I currently have a few ballpeins of varius sizes, a 3lb contractors ham...

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Oh, but unpunctuated allcaps is so much fun! To write AND to decipher!

ADESTONOBISDOMINEDEUSNOSTER -is it really that much different than OMGWTFBBQROFLMAO?

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From the original? Pants over plate. Gotta be. Whether or not the thighs have plate is up for argument. But those knees cant be anything else.

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fascinating

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I really like the look of stainless that has been hot worked. The surface becomes not-stainless anymore, but it won't quite rust, either.

Working with Layers of Latten