The Armour Archive

Tailoress

Hooks and eyes are about 75% done. There were a LOT. Also, I was able to fix that problem with my ironing board (it's called "get a new padded cover, duh"). Now the velvet is nice and smooth. Here's the dress, pre-hooks-and-eyes: http://www.cottesimple.com/EnglishCylinderHennin/project/bla...

Tailoress

Cool, Kit! Dashing, even.

Tailoress

I am so looking forward to this event.

Tailoress

Didn't get anything done on Friday night. Needed a break! Saturday I had my trusty Guy Friday Horace serve as the "beater" for my fingerloop braid which became the super-long lace on my foundation dress. He patiently beat down the loose braid as it formed, since I was too far away to reaso...

Tailoress

Actually, I think her usual theory when she taught workshops about them was that they were usually fur, but the article seems to indicate more that they were only fur sometimes. (It's hard to say, really. I suspect they were woven fabric, often white, possibly silk, because it sure looks like it's ...

Tailoress

Uric, you look like a cheerful, better-looking Wormtongue.

Tailoress

The bag lining is attached at all points and the flat lining is loose at the bottom I think? Nah. Flat-lining means all the layers are placed together before sewing the pieces to each other. Bag-lining means you sew the whole garment two times and then attach them both to each other such that one g...

Tailoress

Thanks, guys! I'm picking up momentum now, because I can see the light at the end of the tunnel and it's not an oncoming train.

Tailoress

All right, Horace, more pictures. These are to give folks an idea of all the pieces going into the dresses. First, there's my simple white 3.5 oz. linen shift. (Folded in half in this picture.) This has a very deep boat neck, tiny shoulder seams, and is made of two panels with skirt flare built in. ...

Tailoress

Baron Alejandro wrote:Tasha, in the past I'd have agreed with you about the not-training part. But more and more, the 'new school' of fighting is taking over.

Well, I hope you're right, and I hope it reaches the East in stronger doses than it has so far.

Tailoress

Fire Stryker wrote:Ask Mac. He might be able to craft one up.

I did write a month or so ago and the answer was generally "no for now".

Tailoress

It didn't offend me the way it seems to have offended other readers who posted above me. He's not wrong about the dilettante nature of many of the fighters in the SCA. People with a serious athletic background who become SCA fighters often remark on the lack of practice, conditioning, and general fo...

Tailoress

3-4 inch wide belts. and even wider. Is there ANY evidence for these? For women in the mid-to-late 15thc in Europe, fo' sho'. In fact, it's been a hard thing to find a repro belt buckle in the appropriately wide and shallow format that is seen in figural art on women wearing the v-necked dresses. R...

Tailoress

I knew you'd take my bait, Karen. Mwahahahahaa!

Thanks!

Tailoress

My dark brown foundation dress is finished. I just need a long lace for the one open side seam. Fits pretty well! I also sewed up a partlet out of a fine white silk -- maybe habotai? I'm not completely sure of all the names for the light-weight stuff, but I'm pretty sure this is habotai. I'm concern...

Tailoress

*sniff*

I'm a better actor though. I'm sure when YOU pulled that trick I handled it with my panic better hidden than those folks I scared.

(edited to make clear the spirit of what I'm saying..)

Tailoress

That's only because the night before I told six people in the same room with me that I wasn't going because I didn't feel well and they all turned and looked at me in unison, total silence, eyes wide... which is when I knew for sure.

Terrible, terrible actors.

Tailoress

(less a comment for T, since she already knows, but more for any kids trying this at home.) Oooh no, I didn't "know" until I laced myself downward last night. The muscle in my left arm almost went on strike. I didn't know I could get my heart rate up so fast just from trying to lace mysel...

Tailoress

Thanks, guys. *********** Last night I did the eyelets on one side seam for the dark brown dress. It'll fit and support like it should. I need to tweak a few tiny, tiny spots, but I can do that tonight, along with finishing the neckline, hem, and cuffs. An observation: I can see why hidden lacing ri...

Tailoress

Part Deux. I used some stiff organza as the first layer of veiling and some very gauzy, floaty chiffon for the top layer, which has a folded back lappet effect (similar to a fair number of the brasses we've been examining). I found the two layers worked well together. I neglected to pin the top laye...

Tailoress

Picture post! Hennin structure is done (not perfect, but decent), pictures are processed, so I figured I'd post part 1 of 2. Part 2 will include the veil and my hair properly done and me wearing the thing without assistance of my hand. http://www.cottesimple.com/EnglishCylinderHennin/project/1.jpg h...

Tailoress

gaukler wrote:It's from Mrs. Ashdown's British Costume, 1910. Lots of great pictures:)

I think that lady is giving a particular message that perhaps only a twisted mind like mine is getting.

And yeah, mine is positively BORING next to hers.

Tailoress

Long, productive day. I was unable to attend the East Kingdom Crown Tournament (which was today) so I spent morning 'til now (9:15ish pm) working on the hennin. I finished all the embellishment -- gold couching and pearl applique. Unfortunately, some of my better understanding of the proposed cylind...

Tailoress

Mac wrote:So, like, what's going on?

Mac

I know, right?

I've spent most of today working on this monstrosity (and giving out candy), so I'm committed to the cylinder at this point... at the least, I'll look reasonably similar to the imagery from a 3/4 view of me.

Tailoress

Congratulations, Andreas!

Tailoress

Very, very cool! And, get a load of her princess seam. So-called "modern" one too -- it goes up into her armpit, not her shoulder. Huh!

Tailoress

Mac, excellent sketches, thank you. Pictures are certainly worth lots of words when it comes to explaining what we mean. I understand your points much better now. I still believe what we're seeing is a cylinder in the case of the brasses and Elizabeth W's portrait, and I think it was born out of the...

Tailoress

These painted images are awesome! Thank you so much! Commentary on the alabaster under discussion -- not only is the gown pretty standard for the later-time theory, but so is the jewelry around her neck. This work is depicting something historical and the artist has done a great job recreating the f...

Tailoress

Thanks Charlotte! That first image makes the veil look home plate-shaped, indeed. I'll try that too (out of cheap fabric) and compare the two looks.

Tailoress

The answer to your assumption (which I assume is something of a question) is: Yes. I know. If you read the second question in my image above, you will see evidence that I know of what you just mentioned. I've even read a book or two on the subject. Thanks for mentioning it anyway, for those who may ...

Tailoress

Added some fabric back into the side seams on the foundation dress. Seems like it'll work, but I won't know for sure until I try it on with the chemise and lace it up. Kind of a do-or-die moment. I won't get to the eyelets before this weekend. I'll take it with me to Crown Tournament and try to get ...

Tailoress

ETA: Forgot one. I like this one because it shows some sort of split or seam up the front. m Did you see what else it has? A peek inside the top layer dress, showing that the white purfelle (or fabric trim) cuts a right turn and heads up into the shoulder... thereby heavily implying a square-neckli...

Tailoress

V-8 Moment: If I have two veils, one as shown by William above, and then another, more diaphanous, longer one over that, I'd get the effect seen in the hard-to-interpret images. Huh. Worth a try. Bob -- I wasn't trying to take the brasses entirely literally, but I wasn't ruling out a possible strang...

Tailoress

Wow! Nice rendering skills! Yes, that's it. The only thing I'd do is remove that horizontal line you have that is bisected by the point of the V in the back. There's no crease or further bend there; all the bend happens at the top and goes straight down from there. Thanks, William, that's really a g...

Tailoress

OK, here's what I mean:

Re: Long..umm wiell things... off the arm of a cotehardie...

Re: no, this is a monstrosity