The Armour Archive

Tailoress

Yeah, Doug Strong, aka Talbot, first tipped me to that cache of purses on bildindex.de -- supposedly belonging to Hermann von Goch, previous high muckety-muck city official in Germany who was apparently hung for naughtiness along the lines of bad financial dealings... IIRC? Karen, do you recall the ...

Tailoress

I can't fool you, Cet.

Tailoress

Dagnabbit, where are the pics, Trevor? They're showing up as broken links.

-Tasha

Tailoress

I made this recently as a commission for a friend gifting it to another friend: http://www.cottesimple.com/misc/finished_purse3_small.jpg The design of the purse itself is based on extant round-top trapezoidal alms purses from France in the 14thc . The appliqued and couched figures are based on the ...

Tailoress

You can also see a decent photograph of this padded and couched badge in Embroiderers by Kay Staniland, which is a common book on a lot of our shelves (or it should be on your shelf, if you're interested in embroidered embellishment of the medieval era). The image in that book gives the impression t...

Tailoress

The term "powdering" probably originated in the fur industry, where the practice consisted of cutting holes in a skin, inserting a contrasting-colored tail (like the black-tipped ermine tail) or bit of fur, and sewing in place. This is how the classic black spots appear on ermine fur. A cheaper and ...

Tailoress

Hot-diggity, Tracy! Sounds cool! Thank you for the tip. This news was completely off my radar. Thank you so much for sharing the lead. You are the best!

-Tasha

Tailoress

A good book for this topic is Margrethe Hald's Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials. If you can't find it to buy, your library should be able to ILL it for you. Good luck,

Tasha

Tailoress

Just to clarify, you would say that on the last image I linked to, that the artist was showing a fur lining? Not sure what Karen's interpretation would be, but that looks like a redrawing of a brass rubbing, possibly not a photo of a direct rubbing... If it's faithful, it does look to me like a fur...

Tailoress

So I decided since everyone and there mother has a G63 garment including myself and it is really an early 15th century and not a 14th century find I would make on of the other Herjolfsnes gowns dated to the mid 14th century. James, I missed this before... According to Else ÃƒËœstergÃƒÂ¥rd's comment...

Tailoress

That reference is nearly 400 years after Hastings, though, and refer to another style of armour. Also, this passage specifically begins "And undir the arme the armynge poyntis..." I thought that sounded familiar. Here's more info on the mid-15thc text: How a Man Shall Be Armed Also, just a comment ...

Tailoress

Greetings Kim, A LOT of folks would do the happy dance if such a sleeve turned up! We're currently stuck with figural portrayals in the art of the time as well as the occasional textual reference. Knowing what Karen knows about these types of sleeves, I'm going to hazard a guess that what she's wond...

Tailoress

The problem with Gaston Phoebus is that it's late 14th century. For the 12th and 13th I know of no leather leg-coverings. Boots don't seem to have got higher than the ankle. Actually the most popular version of the extant selection of illuminated manuscripts for this work is early 15th century, eve...

Tailoress

Flittie, you have my sympathy. Been there, got the carpal tunnel pain! (I was preggers at the time, which made it even worse... Something about the hormones loosening up my joints.) When you sew the eyelets themselves, you may need a pair of pliers to pull the needle through that many layers. That c...

Tailoress

Hi there Villerica,

The email I sent to you has bounced back as undeliverable. Could you please drop me an email at tasha at cottesimple dot com and let me know what address to use?

Thank you,

Tasha

Tailoress

The person to ask is probably Pierre Terjanian, a curator of arms and armour at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. He's one of the world's experts on German armour from that time period.

I will write you an email.

-Tasha

Tailoress

Hi Wulfe, I'd go with a few reasonable options already discussed, perhaps in combination: 1) Wear a linen shirt that is designed to come high on your neck and can go past your wrists. 2) Make sure the linen is a tight or fine weave and not too, too thin. A lot of folks like to use fabrics-store.com'...

Tailoress

Yes, the pendant sleeves continue for quite some time past the 1340s, which does a bit to strengthen the concept that this manuscript wasn't on the earlier side, but rather the later side of the 2nd quarter of the 14thc. (A good book for Luttrell Psalter info is Medieval Rural Life in the Luttrell P...

Tailoress

Hullo... I think that manuscript is solidly middle of the 1340s. To me, the give-away is the pendant sleeves. That short-sleeve embellishment style didn't become fashionably pervasive before somewhere around 1338-ish, and became pronounced in its skinny-longness by about five or so years later, if w...

Tailoress

Excellent! I'm so glad they're starting to arrive and are making for good reading. We'll have a newsletter coming out in the next week or so too. Those who are signed up for informational emails via the home page of ARS will receive an email notification when it's posted, as well as members. There'l...

Tailoress

Greetings Cedric (formerly Grimstone?), I believe since that is a grande assiette garment, it's probably an evolution of the original possibly defensive-only type, but more to the point, a garment that by the early 15th century was worn fashionably. Whether or not the thing had hosen tied to it, is ...

Tailoress

From the same Harmand book, here is primary reference to pourpoints circa 1432: " A Perrin Bossuot, varlet de chambre et tailleur de robes..... pour samblable de deux pourpoins faiz pour MdS en sa ville de Brouxelles, l'un de drap de damas noir de quatre quartiers et l'autre doublÃƒÂ© de VI toilles ...

Tailoress

Not so much compared to the 16thc stuff there, but there's a decent hounskul from the late 14th with somewhat later modifications (according to Pierre Terjanian, one of the A&A curators there). I'm not recalling details at all right now, but the armour collection is definitely worth a visit. Put it ...

Tailoress

(Edited to add: Ah, see? Ralph beat me to it... BTW, the URL below will work too; it doesn't have to have .. "member.php" on the end.) The email was sent; I received it at the time -- it was automated, so it was not a special delivery for me (as a board member). If you didn't get it, that might be f...

Tailoress

What's with the microcephalic armet design? It's like he's expecting pinheads with giant jaws to wear them...

-Tasha

Tailoress

The mailing of the journals is happening from Illinois, where they were printed. I know that Brian has been working on preparing the mailing, but please be a bit more patient (I know, it's hard to wait, and you have all waited a long time!), as it WILL be mailing out soon.

-Tasha

Tailoress

Hi Timothy, I've been wondering for some time now if joined hosen (or at the very least, very high-cut split hosen with a rather wide fabric area for point holes) were in use during the last 3 decades of the 14thc. This is all deductive of course, not totally provable, but the iconography sure does ...

Tailoress

It is just one person's opinion, but in mine, all three of those are utter crap if one's goal is to use them to document and create accurate historical clothing. Still, it's a good idea to have the bad sources along with the good so that one may compare and hone one's discernment skills. As you paid...

Tailoress

Complete with lack of nipples!

Tailoress

I don't have any references handy at this moment, but I do have a serious question about the lack of material incentives for the Albigensian crusaders. Simon de Montfort ended up with lordship over a significant part of the Languedoc, and presumably lesser crusaders were similarly rewarded. The Kin...

Tailoress

I have found that pourpoints work equally well for the female body as the male, as long as you're not attempting to build in the bust support -- in which case you've got other tailoring issues to add to your challenge of making a well-fitted pourpoint that allows your upper body to bend and stretch ...

Tailoress

I'd love to see a close-up of that purse as well. Okily-dokily. The embroidered scenes were taken from two different (but quite similar) manuscripts of the Romance of the Rose circa 1380. The God of Love Locks the Lover's Heart: http://www.cottesimple.com/misc/god_of_love_purse.JPG Coitus, Nature's...

Tailoress

The last time I had decent enough kit to wear, these were some examples: 1380 French: http://www.cottesimple.com/misc/embroidered_hood_front_view.jpg 1410 French: [img]http://www.cottesimple.com/misc/Marcele_1410_French.jpg[/img] Sorry that second picture is grainy, but it gets enough across. I'm we...

Tailoress

That's because I'm using my svengali-like mind-waves to tempt you to hire me instead. (Well, no, not really... I am kind of fussy about only fitting grande assiettes in person, and you're in... like... the far reaches of the country and what not... and then... like... even more far away soon enough....

Tailoress

Cet, otherwise known as Dave Rylak (Vulcan Forge Armoury), showed me this great image below. The notes I have on it are as follows: 1370 Italian jupon (with bag elbows); grande assiette-style quilting pattern. (central figure) Crocifission, particolare, circa 1370; Lentate, Oratorio di S. Stefano Fr...

A round-top trapezoid purse reconstruction

Re: Pendant Sleeves

Re: The Herjolfsnes no.41 a.k.a. the G41