The Armour Archive

Tailoress

What I'm wondering is whether or not there's an ambient temperature up-to-which such a thing is unlikely to happen, and then an ambient temperature above-which such a thing becomes a real risk or threat...

Or, could it be really cold and still happen?

Tailoress

Just an aside about gartering men's hosen... This is not at all common in the art of the later 14thc. One might occasionally see a garter on one leg (signifying membership in an Order, perhaps?), but the use of two garters around hosen that are pointed somewhere above the thigh is relatively rare. I...

Tailoress

Adam, Cet, I'll post something in Interpretive Re-creation at some point -- the inspirational pic, and a couple views of the jupon, though as Cet knows, we don't have ideal pics of it unfortunately. It was made to go under specific armour, and without it, it looks a tad deflated. Plus, there were so...

Tailoress

Very hard to find or very expensive, AFAIK, but easily ILLed. -Tasha Not so. The Friendly Free Library of Philadelphia owns this book. Mord. Um, yes so. By "hard to find" I mean "to buy". I suppose I could have been clearer there, but I did mention that it is easily ILLed. Your response confirms my...

Tailoress

I would recommend that if you intend for the collar to be one piece, have your ground fabric stretched taut on a frame with the outline of the shape of the collar showing on the uncut fabric. You may need a custom frame, which I might have available, actually. I have a number of simple, sturdy woode...

Tailoress

But out of curiosity, what time period do you refer to when discussing tablet woven belts? Most buckles I have read about (that specify anyways) were fastened to leather. Granted, I'm pretty narrow in my research... Garth Hi there Garth! For the late 14th and early 15th centuries, my time period, I...

Tailoress

Hi Adam, "me too!" I'm using the latest and greatest Adobe Reader, so whatever is happening is simply a mystery. (I'm getting the same failure notice.) Could it be that you have to wait a long time to let it load before trying to scroll down? I got the failure when I was aggressively trying to get i...

Tailoress

FYI im kinda curious about the alum tanning myself... Ive heard from re-enactors often that that was a RARE thing.. Can't speak on this, but what I'm wondering is why more knights (and other SCAdians) aren't wearing tablet-woven belts, with or without LMS (li'l metal shite) attached. Plenty of evid...

Tailoress

I know there's a wealth of raw and even collated and analyzed data on this topic "out there", but I just haven't delved into it. The V&A, Abegg Stiftung, Musee des Tissus, etc. probably have a wealth of textile fragments which would help answer these questions, but again, that's a whole other kettle...

Tailoress

No reason not to use various true silk brocades and weaves documentable to the period, but I'm not certain that a true "gauze" weight would really give the effect wanted for a fancy top layer garment. If that's what cendal truly is, and one can find documentable cendal, then go for it, I say. I am n...

Tailoress

Not that I know of, but you probably got closest to being at one at the Battle of The Thirty. I think I recognized you there, but I am sorry I didn't introduce myself.

Were there not some harnesses there that inspired? It was pleasing to behold.

-Tasha

Tailoress

Twill is spot-on. It's quite documentable to the time and will give you good drape for the drapey garments of the 1350s/60s. (Note the men have fuller skirts to their garments in that time, though the torso tends to be well-fitted). Just be careful how thick the twill is. I am not very good at under...

Tailoress

Tasha, I bow to your superior knowledge about the grande assiette. I wasn't aware of the 1432 cite. What country was the 'wealthy man' from? Heh heh... Not so much superior as partial and still gathering. You know how there's this crime called "driving while intoxicated"? I'm "researching while obs...

Tailoress

Hi Tracy, What makes you say that the grande assiette was out of fashion by the second quarter of the 15thc? Do you mean by 1450 or by 1425? There is the account of a wealthy man ordering multiple garments a grandes assiettes around 1432; there are depictions of men wearing them in the 1430s/40s, as...

Tailoress

Of fustian he wered a gypon Al bismotered with his habergeoun, I have always found that particular description from the General Prologue to be confusing. I take habergeoun to mean a cotte of mail. If the gypon/jupon is besmotered by it, then it would most likely be underneath the habergeoun, else h...

Tailoress

Just a reminder to post your pic(s), Tim. That will help folks here give you and your wife the help you need, if you still need it.

-Tasha

Tailoress

It occurs to me that the arguments happening here are, believe it or not, a form of preaching to the choir, because even though there are those who stand doggedly against enforcing better scholarly practice within the SCA and specifically at demos, at least they are AWARE that bad scholarly practice...

Tailoress

By the late 14th century, a knight wearing a full harness of mostly plate would more likely be wearing a pourpoint (basically a slightly longer arming doublet), that would be lightly padded to give it that popular shape . A gambesopn is too heavily padded, and does not really work for the purpose. ...

Tailoress

Disregarding the controversy over whether the Blois garment was padded in its original format or not (it goes back and forth; the latest I've heard is that a conservator at the Musee des Tissus said it had been originally padded; that was posted to Cynthia Virtue's page a few years ago, IIRC.), it i...

Tailoress

Brennus, by "waist" what do you mean? Are you attempting for a wasp-waist silhouette, or you can't get the fabric to just follow the curves of your body, whatever shape it happens to be? Maybe I can help.

-Tasha

Tailoress

Kith the Silent wrote:Who's Duke Ulrich ? I thought it was going to be Duke Alaric .

It was. I think the writer just didn't get a spelling confirmation and thought "Alaric" sounded like Ulrich. Oh well.

-Tasha

Tailoress

James, thank you for posting this; I must have missed it last time. The guy in the copper lentner in the back is Cet, I believe, and I've been looking for a decent pic of him wearing it for a while (since I made it and like to collect pics of my garments in action). The Battle of the 30 this year wa...

Tailoress

Juhani that's beautiful. Yes, it is! Tasha did a class on the grande assiette this past Tuesday (?) at Pennsic. When folks come back there may be some good advice. I did, and I think it went pretty well. Some folks had a "I coulda had a V-8!" moment (which is gratifying as a teacher), and it appear...

Tailoress

Justin,

If you private-message me with your email address, I will send you some information which may help you in your efforts.

-Tasha

Tailoress

Thorbjorn, are you going for a fully civilian impression, or an armoured one too? Luckily, the Norse have a nice selection of extant tunics to pick from for inspiration in their clothing. Marc Carlson's site is a good place to start. I love the Kragelund tunic, and the Bocksten Man tunic (which come...

Tailoress

I have found that having a collar on the arming cotte helps a lot with the sagging-outwards-toward-the-shoulder issue. Lace all the way up, or use latchet ties, or whatever. As for snugness, I think that the better-fitting and fitted the better. If it fits you like a glove, there's nowhere for thing...

Tailoress

I have just looked back on the posts and only two direct responses to my 'deceit', one from you the other from Char which were not really challenges but as you rightly say different opinions, Fair enough, Grimstone... although I don't recall disagreeing with you so much as adding on commentary from...

Tailoress

I suggested a while back that many images are excercises in deceit, ie they are nor there to tell us the actual truth of materials, scale etc more than the subjective truth of an image that has been ordered to contain certain key parts, it is not a free form media. My comment was dismissed out of h...

Tailoress

Very nice! I wish I had woodworking skillz so I could start doing things like that for my own camp.

Now I think you should go on over to Historical Research and say,

"COOLERCOZIE, COOLERCOZIE, COOLERCOZIE!"

and see how long it takes for the seething to start!

Tailoress

Greetings, Well, you have two issues to look into now, given your friend's goals. 1) Whether or not to actually stuff channels as opposed to quilting sandwiched layers, 2) What material to use as your internal padding, regardless of method. If you do a search here in the AA and put in strings like "...

Tailoress

Ean, Are you asking about martial soft kit or about everyday wear, i.e. non-martial kit? Terminology makes me wonder. If you are referring to your 'walking around' gear, I'd say you're on the right track, but I might refer to the shirt as simple, "a shirt" or "chemise" (St. Louis shirt is implying t...

Tailoress

Saverio, your work is inspirational. Thank you for sharing it! BTW, I took a look at your website and saw your page for "Ernie"... It occurs to me that *I* am Ernie when my husband starts talking about computer tech to me. *He* is Ernie when I talk tailoring and historical art interpretation. Someti...

Tailoress

Droolin' droolin' droolin' (sang to the tune of that egregious Rollin' Rollin' Rollin' "song" by Limp Bizket). ...

<SIGH> Wish I could buy this right now. Your price is excellent.

-Tasha

Tailoress

I personally think you're better off avoiding Norris altogether and taking the time to absorb the period's figural art, any info on extant stuff, and any reliable secondary sources that analyse the first two plus textual evidence (literature, records, accounts, etc.). If you have access to unadultur...

Tailoress

The hair styles struck me as similar to those in the 'Prayer Book of the Duc du Berry' (? citing this from memory) from 1375. As far as I can remember (searching memory), the shaved-bowl look really doesn't appear until turn of century, while the frizzy/poofy look (worn more like an abbreviated bob...