The Armour Archive

Tailoress

I know most of the talkers in this thread already know about this other thread, but for others who are taking an interest, here's a link to a previous thread which contains lots of interesting discussion along these lines and related:

http://forums.armourarchive.org/phpBB2/ ... hp?t=31428

-Tasha

Tailoress

deleted second identical post

Tailoress

Here's a recent thread with more info about the site of the frescos. The link I posted is in Italian, but you can get the gist....

Castello della Manta

-Tasha[/url]

Tailoress

Re: androgyny in naked female images -- there are also plenty of rather obviously hour-glass or pear-shaped female images (naked) from this general time frame, so argument that it's probably a woman based on a prevailing method of naked androgyny of the female form in art of the time is rather dilut...

Tailoress

I'll go rummage through the research library and see what details I can find. I know the image is of Italian origin, but that's hardly saying anything, because art and stylistic tendencies were markedly different, city-state to city-state in that area.

-Tasha

Tailoress

I spoke with a lady yesterday who is in the SCA and who sells herbal ingregients within the SCA and she thinks that you could use hemp oil or hemp seeds that have been baked (meaning they'll never germinate) without breaking any rules, as they are legal in the US. (You're in the US I'm guessing?) Sh...

Tailoress

That's dated to approximately 1405-1410, IIRC. I've often wondered about that particular androgynous gal/guy. A woman named Heather Rose Jones gave a fascinating talk on the medieval underwear controversy ("did women wear them, or not?") at the 2004 Kalamazoo conference. If you contact her, she migh...

Tailoress

Pardon my complete lack of understanding here... but what the heck does vertical stitching versus horizontal stitching have to do with whether something is sandwiched and quilted or quilted and then stuffed in channels? I understand that vertical channels might look less obviously saggy over time, b...

Tailoress

A gambeson would be next to useless usless in defending against a thrust, or arrows, were it sewn like a quilt in channels. You are making a defensive armour - not a quilt, so I would recommend using what is far more likely to have been the correct technique, in preference to using a modern quilete...

Tailoress

Buran, You are probably thinking of the Black Prince's heraldic jupon discussed in an article on the subject by Janet Arnold in The Journal of the Church Monuments Society, Volume VIII, 1993. The title of the article is The Jupon or Coat-Armour of the Black Prince in Canterbury Cathedral. She mentio...

Tailoress

Amhlaidgh, You're not being a stick in the mud for asking. I wouldn't make statements like that unless this sort of thing hasn't already been discussed and cited ad infinitum in a variety of places. There was a past discussion here that brought up a myriad of useful sources. Try searching on "dyed l...

Tailoress

The earliest textual mention that I've seen was from the mid 1360s, IIRC, which is mentioned in Joan Evan's Dress in Medieaval France.

-Tasha

Tailoress

But the point of this new topic is how to make do, not how to be perfect. If you wish to be historically accurate, we have a seperate topic for it. If you wish to be reasonably accurate within the perimeters of your group's rules, this is the place for it. Uh, who here has discussed their perfectio...

Tailoress

I thought the controversy was more along the lines of whether or not dyed linen was used as a fashion fabric in, say, the 14th and 15th centuries. We know that dyed linen was used for linings, and we know that white or natural linen was probably used for a myriad of underwear purposes, but more evid...

Tailoress

This is a thread that Asbjorn needs to chime in on. He's testing a combination of tying his leg armour to his arming cotte and wearing linen braies and split hosen that tie to the braies for fighting in the SCA. The braies I made for him so far are the kind that roll down over a cloth "belt" with sl...

Tailoress

I believe the York Archaeological series has extant pouch info from Viking-age York in its leather volume. This is, of course, just packed as of yesterday, so I cannot access specific citation/descriptive info until I'm unpacked on the other end. (Just moving one town over, but the packing is still ...

Tailoress

Take this as side comment, but I recall from a tour of medieval churches in Russia that the biblical words and phrases painted on the interiors of these churches (fresco painting was all the rage in the period you're covering) were in old Russian. That's a different look to the characters than moder...

Tailoress

Lots of people have their personal favorites, but I like to use Au Ver A Soie's 100/3 thread for silk sewing. It's the same thickness as regular old cotton machine thread, to give you an idea. Not sure how the numbering works, only that the smaller the first number, the fatter the thickness of the t...

Tailoress

Oh, I had another thought -- there are two kinds of interactions here in which citation appears to be an issue -- the "I'm answering question XYZ" and the "I'm challenging so-and-so's statement". Unless a source is relatively obscure, titles and author names will probably be enough to put across the...

Tailoress

What is this antipathy toward citing your work? Isn't your work worth the cite? Your research without citation is worthless; if you want to waste your time, go ahead. Hi Bob/brewer, I was thinking about your initial idea and I think I have an idea why folks might be resisting the full citation chal...

Tailoress

Fine by me, but I personally find patronising and lofty comments more irritating than an honest ^%Ã‚Â£$$&!!! kind of thing. There is a lot of that on these boards I am afraid. cheers <glancing from side to side>... Now you've got me paranoid! I post here a lot, and I suspect there are times I c...

Tailoress

Reyne, I posted a link for a museum right here in the US, in southeastern PA, which has one of these statues. That's a start, right? In the case of many historical clothing styles, the only way to get "the big picture" is to do piecemeal detective work. This means checking out many many books/source...

Tailoress

Come to think of it, I'm realizing how right Atli is. The word "authenticity" in the board's title practically begs for the us/them flame wars. Let's call it "Historical Research" and leave it at that. Anyone wading in with a troll line will have their hook removed from the water and their entire se...

Tailoress

This forum seems to be the one place people on the AA can come to get detailed information about soft kit, which isn't covered so much in the other forums. A good number of the people asking and answering are in the SCA, so it would probably not be the best thing to make "SCA" a verboten topic. Most...

Tailoress

(2) Kirtles can be constructed, even for the somewhat-endowed, in such a way that they don't need to be laced, buttoned, or even have a seam up the front. Certainly this is true. But, and it's a big but, very few women are built such that what you describe will, in fact, given them the same kind of...

Tailoress

The folds on gown cloth are almost all stylised, yes they show a heavyish cloth but in nearly all representations from say 1380 onwards cloth strangely looks the same, Greetings Grimstone, I'm not really following your point above. Can you give some examples? has anyone tried replicating those extr...

Tailoress

I'm probably going to a special hell reserved just for true believers who step out of line , but here's a list of commercial patterns that *supposedly* can be used to make somewhat medieval-looking fitted gowns for women. (Is that enough damning with faint praise?) Butterick 3932:view C Simplicity 8...

Tailoress

Not looking for historical accuracy here *gasp* just the "look" with comfort and convenience in mind. If you're not looking for historical accuracy and you don't want to mess with the lines of the pullover gown, yeah, you could add lacing to the chemise. Probably best to do it on the side seams, si...

Tailoress

Which layer are you talking about -- the layer over the chemise/smock? If so, you can get excellent support with a lace-up garment. If you're talking about a fancy layer over top that, then the layer over the chemise/smock would do the supporting and the pull-overlayer could simply skim the body snu...

Tailoress

Welcome Brynn!

Hey folks, this is the lady I mentioned above who executed the lovely bezants for her sleeve decoration!

-Tasha

Tailoress

Second, bust support is overemphasized amongst modern living historians, and should not be overemphasized here. If one looks closely at the pictorial evidence, one rarely sees women with breasts so large as to require significant bust support. The placket of the Cranach-type gown does provide some ...

Tailoress

For padding under a later plate kit? If you're doing plate you won't need thick padding beneath it. Maybe some thin padding in certain spots, but not armour-level padding, IMHO. I make arming cottes most often out of two layers of sturdy bast-fiber cloth (flax or hemp linen) and quilt the layers to...

Tailoress

Way back in the mists of time I made one of these using the method Char describes (extra-long torso with side lacing to ruck it up) and it really did look great. I used a silk broadcloth, which helps give the fluid effect. There have been three articles in Tournaments Illuminated (the SCA publicatio...

Tailoress

I had a REALLY hard time working some of the motifs on a fancy grande assiette cotte I made a few months back. My husband produced custom-sized wooden frames for me to stretch the pattern-marked fabric on and I was able to do (with production help) 9 out of the 14 or so motifs while the fabric was n...

Tailoress

At an SCA event I attended in February or March a woman who'd taken up a prize challenge I'd issued to create a complete robe of clothing from the late 14th or early 15thc made some gorgeous stamped bezants for the sleeves of her early 15thc overgown. The results were splendid and I'm waiting to see...

Re: Question for the clothing queens

Re: For underneath armor