The Armour Archive

Tailoress

The first seal looks to be showing a coat of plates (with small plates that don't overlap, apparently), worn over a mail hauberk, and holding a pavise. I can't begin to understand that helm, but I'm no helm maven. His arms and legs are... puzzling. The arms seem to show a long-sleeved regular fabric...

Tailoress

Does he sell belt tips to go with the buckles? He doesn't list them on his site, so I figured I'd ask those here who've seen his wares in person.

Tailoress

Rod Walker wrote:Am I list legal

Sure, for a BDSM-themed list.

Tailoress

RandallMoffett wrote:The issue I get is that it sags under my calf muscle. Usually the top is OK, the knee is a tad loose but the under calf area is a bit saggy.

IMO the location of the sag is due to gravity. The sag is going to pool as far south as it can go.

Tailoress

I am with the 2-inch crowd. This is based on my informal survey of art and artifacts over the last 10 years of casual browsing on the topic. From what I've seen, it depends on whether it's a solid sort of belt where you don't see what I am assuming is leather underneath or whatever, like the ones t...

Tailoress

I am with the 2-inch crowd.

This is based on my informal survey of art and artifacts over the last 10 years of casual browsing on the topic.

Tailoress

Keep up the good work. Do you think you'll cover your shoes with leather or will you opt for a period style?

Tailoress

Just FYI,

I haven't written back because I don't need my shoes by mid June. That's cool, right? Only folks who actually DO need their shoes by then are supposed to write, right?

Tailoress

Just a little bump in case folks weren't reading here last week and are here this week.

Tailoress

Oh, ok, very interesting. I wasn't aware of that controversy. Thanks for sharing the picture.

Tailoress

Isn't the upside-down V covering up the seam line where the gore is placed at the front of that hood? If that is the case, why doesn't it make sense? Do you mean it doesn't make sense to cover up a seam line like that, or... something else? I'm not disagreeing (because I don't understand enough of w...

Tailoress

James and Tasha, my question is about the difference between varieties of wool fabric. For example, what's wool flannel? Oh boy. This is sooo not my specialty. I know wool flannel when I see it/touch it, but I don't know how to describe it in words here in such a way that you'd know how to tell the...

Tailoress

Well-deserved. I met Friedrich at Birka this year and not only was his appearance inspirational but his conduct was gentlemanly. Vivat!

Tailoress

Jean Paul de Sens wrote:Um, so who won?

Jean Paul

Er... I figured a Trimarian would have piped up by now... It was Sir Lorcan (sp?) against Sir Fernando ("Nando", I heard him called) in the finals and Sir Lorcan won the day. I don't know these gentlemen, so I apologize if I got any spelling wrong.

Tailoress

Lucian Ro wrote:I'll be there, Tasha.

Oh, wait ...

Why... it's LORD Lucian Ro! How are you today, your LORDship?

Oyez, oyez one and all:

You need to watch out. Lord Lucian intends to defend his kingdom using the deadly art of the Hug. He told His Majesties Trimaris so, and I would not gainsay him.

Tailoress

Edwin wrote:+1 !

OH!!! *THAT* Edwin!

NOW I "recognize" you.

Tailoress

I'll be attending, all the way from the East. I'd enjoy getting to meet some of my Trimarian Archive peeps. If you see a 14thc lady in a rust-red dress, please say hi; it might be me.

My SCA name is Marcele, which can be pronounced Mar-SELL or Mar-SELL-uh. Either works.

Tailoress

Another argument against it being mail on the torso is the distinct, crisp shaping of the globosed chest, wasped waist, and belled skirt. Mail hangs and lays against stuff.

Tailoress

I haven't read the entire thread, so I apologize if someone already brought this up, but I watched a small local tourney on Saturday where this system was used and because I didn't KNOW it was being used, I was gobsmacked when a fighter appeared to shrug a very solid leg shot... And the guy he was f...

Tailoress

Wow. This is a better-than-normal class offering at Pennsic.

Tailoress

I'm later than normal in getting around to pre-regging this year, so maybe it's just a general trend... we have until June 15th if we do it online. Otherwise, you probably wanted to get it in the snail-mail today to be safe... But if Pennsic is down by 20 or more percent I can only say I'll be glad,...

Tailoress

Drogo, are you interested in book recommendations? If so, there was a thread a while back where just about all the best books were discussed for this: Book recommendations for researching 14thc material culture/clothing In my head I imagine having a pair of wool chausses (what type of modern wool is...

Tailoress

D, an earlier version that is famous would be the the Charles VI jupon in the Chartres Cathedral, and of course the Hohenklingen effigy... the first not being "art" technically but a garment, and the second being funerary art, not illumination-type art. These aren't the deep bag style thou...

Tailoress

That's great info, thank you for sharing it. I love the documentation for using white silk (cendal and samite) instead of a white fur as the lining of the mantel. Though it's being proscribed in favor of white squirrel fur in this instance, the prohibition against silk wouldn't be specifically menti...

Tailoress

Tasha - I have to send you pics of the model Martha made for me. I still need to sew the buttons. A-hah! Little did we know that pics would be unnecessary, as I got to see it today in person. Thanks for the kind comments, folks. I had a ton of fun writing it and now I'm in danger of expanding it as...

Tailoress

Tracy, thank you for the catch -- I took another look and sure enough, my mind had played a trick on me. I corrected the diagrams that were affected. The front gore is now oriented correctly. Just goes to show how valuable it is to have eyes other than your own taking a look at your work. Thanks aga...

Tailoress

PiRho wrote:Very cool

Did you read it, or are you just being my little brother?

Tailoress

I agree with the fabric conservation concept. Also I think the bias cut of the small pieces may make a difference in the 'stretchiness' of the armscye. I don't cover this in the article, but the bias edge where the two back gores meet most definitely assist with the muscular expansion of the upper ...

Tailoress

Thanks for the feedback, Tracy. I cover the side-sliver extensively in the article and have the same conclusions you came to, apparently. My assertion is that it was not added after the fact as a tailoring correction for fit, but as a planned piece of the front pieces, because the front pieces are e...

Tailoress

Good question, Sean. The answer is that the fabric has a medallion design which reveals the direction each piece was cut in. They contain eagles and lions, which have a top and a bottom. All the body pieces were cut in the same direction. You'll notice that the diagrams have arrows to demonstrate th...

Tailoress

Galfrid atte grene wrote:I'm actually moving to NYC in a couple weeks, so I'm certain to be near there at some point (eg Pennsic). If there's a useful book I'll be certain to stop.

The East gets you?? *does a dance of glee*

Looking forward to meeting you in person.

Tailoress

Good morning, I started this article over a year ago but for various reasons kept putting it down. I recently felt inspired to just-finish-it-already-sheesh. Since I first learned of the Charles de Blois pourpoint, I have been fascinated with its complex pattern and the excessive piecing it uses. Th...

Tailoress

Thanks, Klaus! I hadn't considered the height adjustment, true enough. I suppose I was lumping all tweaks from the base pattern under the category of "figure this out when you make the mock-up and fix it on the mock-up". I can see your point, though. As for the neckline, that's actually on...

Tailoress

I just know that if I'm mad enough at someone to "get physical" with them.. I'm going to do it to maim, disfigure, and hopefully kill them. Ah, but that's you. I know other men who are perfectly capable of fighting in a controlled and honorable manner when furious. It is up to the individ...

Tailoress

Granted, that's a personal choice.. but I never fought simply to beat people up. It was about skill, and to me, skill and rage have no place together. I didn't say anything about fighting to "beat people up", though, just to be clear. I think it's quite possible (and common) for people to...

Re: Waaaay too much time on my hands.

Who will be at Trimaris Crown tomorrow?

Re: 14th century clothing research

For the tailors: an article about the CdB on my site