The Armour Archive

Tailoress

Blackoak wrote:I NEVER have a phone on me at events, but I got caught this Gulf Wars with mine. I was answering a text from Tasha.

I need to fit a blue tooth in one of those hair rolls.

Uric

You texted me first, Sir!

Man, that sounds lame...

Tailoress

Gavin -- that would be nifty, thanks! Juliana -- yeah, I have the Geijer book re: this dress. I'm pretty familiar with the pattern in it... I'm wondering whether or not the folks who recreated it literally used every little piece in the crescent fill-in for the armholes or if they simplified it, or ...

Tailoress

Blackoak wrote:Do we need to pass a law to keep Tasha off her cell phone at events??

Uric

Ooof! Gut shot.

Tailoress

Thanks to Master Gilbert, aka Bartok here on the Archive, I now have a PDF version instead of the doc version. Please click the link again.

Tailoress

Thank folks!

BTW, I had to make a correction to step 9 in the drafting instructions. Please re-download if you've already done so. Thanks!

Tailoress

You are very welcome. Yes, Dandelion is my middle name. There are at least 50 other "Tasha Kelly"s in this country, but I doubt there's another Tasha Dandelion Kelly. Makes copyright really, really clear.

Tailoress

Allrighty. I posted the tutorial. Here's my thread announcing it:

Draft and Sew a Martial Surcotte

You can download it directly from my sig line below, too.

Hope it's useful.

-Tasha

Tailoress

PLEASE NOTE: If you've already posted the PDF itself elsewhere, please re-post with the current one (as of 3pm EST, Saturday May 8th) because I discovered a giant math error. Step 9 has been corrected -- 1/4 the length of Measurement 4.... NOT the full length. *shudder* Unless you want to make a su...

Tailoress

http://www.durantextiles.com/newsletter/documents/news_3be_10.asp A medieval design â€“ the Golden Gown of Queen Margareta. By Martin Ciszuk, photo: Laila DurÃ¡n. In co-operation with the cathedral of Uppsala, Sweden, DurÃ¡n Textiles have produced a hand printed design based on the woven silk of th...

Tailoress

Hey Tasha you wouldn't happen to have a good surcotte pattern would you? Or maybe some tips for those looking to make one. The ones I made for Estrella were pretty rushed and I'm going to be making some better ones here soon. As it happens, I do have a couple of patterns (both are different ways to...

Tailoress

http://heatherrosejones.com/stlouisshirt/index.html This is the same under dress she uses for saxon, viking and even later stuff. It's not a million miles off anything you would see up to the C15th, and would work earlier. Good point. It's a good reference point for what was being done tailoring-wi...

Tailoress

Looking forward to my new shoes!

PS -- Oisin, except for when fighting, you sound like you need a pair of pattens to wear when the ground is wet. The medieval pre-cursor to rubber boots.

Tailoress

Yes Matt, you're right, this thread has remained amazingly civil. I think it helps that most of us know each other in real life and care about maintaining good relationships. Andreas and Darius -- thank you both for your reassurances, though I was not surprised by them, as you have both only ever be...

Tailoress

Urgh. I was hoping your question wouldn't be that question. Which style of dags? Are we talking the half-circle/tongue shaped ones? Crenellated (square) ones? Some are easier than others. For sanity, my recommendation is that you do a bag-lining version of these dags. What that means is you'll sew u...

Tailoress

Thank you for your post, Logan. I agree with you and frequently cite your efforts and the results when discussing this sort of thing privately with various people. I don't think you and I have ever officially been introduced face-to-face, but I want you to know your legacy in this regard is apprecia...

Tailoress

I know that in the 14thc literature in England, written in English it was generally called a "smock". But now I'm wondering ifi I'm remembering that correctly and will go home and check the little dissertation I like to reference for these things. I'll give a cite when I get to that... Re:...

Tailoress

Shift, smock, and chemise are all the same thing -- a white linen undergarment, usually, though silk too on occasion, for high-end interpretation. Chemise comes from the French; smock and shift I believe come from English. But perhaps German... I don't know and don't have the time right now to trace...

Tailoress

Isabella, that's drop-dead gorgeous, but I'd expect nothing less from you. May I ask you how you finish your edges? (Are they rolled and sewn? Glued/Fray-checked? No finish and they fray?) Any info greatly appreciated...

Tailoress

What's exasperating to see here is that both Mord and Maeryk make serious efforts and look good when they show up at events. Neither of them are the problem. I'd like to see more of the Problem Children in this argument defending themselves, rather than others defending them. We're all big boys and ...

Tailoress

. Tasha have you considered making a freebie hand out for the fresh wave of people hunting down information on covering themselves? Bartok That's not a bad idea. It might be a bit much for me to provide examples of cloth coverage from most major time periods in Europe, but I could probably provide ...

Tailoress

But I'm a bit odd, in that I think a viking in a surcotte is gonna look just as silly as a quickly made sandwich-board tabard.. so I'm willing to give them a pass. When you find me a Viking who looks like a Viking on his head and limbs but for the torso, I'll concede you your point. I think 99.9% o...

Tailoress

I was wondering when someone would post about this. I was going to but got distracted by other stuff like getting an icepick in my eardrums . I travel a fair bit for the SCA, both in my kingdom and outside of it. I'm in the East, were MJBlazek and several other commentators on this thread are also f...

Tailoress

Oisin and company, There's a whole body of knowledge around creating and attaching cloth, self-stuffed buttons. For a good start, take a look at the Museum of London's Textiles and Clothing book, which contains close-up photos of extant cloth buttons and the shanks that are created from sewing them ...

Tailoress

And there are ways of making longer braids with fingerloop. Somebody to help tap, or using your toe, or tying a knot in the middle and braiding in both directions, etc. For that late 15thc outfit you fit me for, Char, I had my trusty friend PiRho/Horace act as my lace-beater (that just sounds so di...

Tailoress

Just a small note of correction -- I am not a member of Lord Grey's Retinue, though I did dress out with them once at MTT one year. Also, La Belle Compagnie put The Peel Affinity out, not Lord Grey's Retinue (which does later 15thc). I am a Friend of La Belle Compagnie, meaning that I don't dress ou...

Tailoress

Hi there.

I have not forgotten your promise to compare this garment side-by-side with the Revival one. (Presumably Revival Enterprises, not Revival Clothing, right...?) Could you please do that and let us all know what's what?

Thanks,
Tasha

Tailoress

I'm still like this and it disappoints me that I can be so judgmental. After discussing this topic with Tasha this year at Gulf Wars I'm trying to adopt her philosophy to only notice the positives so that, eventually I hope, the negatives just don't even register on my radar. Thank you so much for ...

Tailoress

I'm a bit late posting this. Syr Raim made me a 10-foot silk swallow-tail pennon for delivery at Gulf Wars. Communication was excellent and the good Syr delivered on time at the War (no thanks to me -- I was hard to find... he gets major points for persistence in tracking me down. ) The banner was H...

Tailoress

I'm going to try to make it down on Saturday with my son. Looking forward to seeing folks!

Tailoress

Joseph, who's already commented here, let me know about an interesting book: Medieval Fantasy as Performance by Michael A. Cramer aka Jarl Valgard Stonecleaver who currently resides in the East. The first chapter goes into good detail about exactly how the initial fighting rules developed. I'm enjoy...

Tailoress

The odds are heavy for an ICOD king. How's that for obvious?

Tailoress

The only kit I ever had...

I called that thing around my body "the flak jacket"...

Tailoress

Have you considered the possibility of carpal tunnel? Ditto I had the same symptoms and started wearing wrist braces at night until I could train myself not to curl my hands inward when I slept. Hand numbness was gone almost immediately. If your work activities are causing you to bend your hand inw...

Tailoress

James, the article I mentioned in that other thread has some solid info about the making of them; IIRC, there's supposition that they were shaped/pressed/molded hardened leather.

Tailoress

The article written by Helmut Nickel called "About Ailettes and Achselschilde" published in Waffen- und Kostumkunde 2002, Heft 2 provides a number of photographs of carvings/statuary depicting armoured men wearing ailettes all the way up to 1350. Though there's a typo in the article where ...

Martial surcotte tutorial - drafting and sewing (CORRECTION)

Golden Gown of Queen Margareta recreated

Review of a pennon by Syr Raim