The Armour Archive

Mac

This is a very exciting find, and I hope we will get more pictures soon.

Mac

Mac

----- the 20d nails will have fairly high carbon, but should remain "soft" enough if I let them air cool instead of quenching. (Mac, is this your methodology? have you had any issues with brittleness?) Scott I think you'll find that the nails are relatively low carbon, but cold-drawn to make them s...

Mac

I usually start with 20d finishing nails. The extra material in the head gives me just about enough to make a pad for the rivet hole.

Mac

Mac

Here is the sketch for the Mk 5.1 shirt. The left side shows the bodice and arm smoothed out flat, which makes the gusset have to fold. The right shows the bodice falling into folds and the gusset flat. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tFWswZcENDhyvFEy4VoQEy6MYOA8UUnZ7SqfFcf9hqwMiVL2dCY6ngFuuyI-lp3...

Mac

Making a shirt along the lines of your drawings b, c, d, or e should yield a seam rather like those in this picture we looked at earlier: https://i.pinimg.com/564x/73/be/d2/73bed2d3d7b6b37c309303fef3f92564.jpg That's what I was thinking as well. More on this later. You mention that the Roderigo shi...

Mac

The shoulders I ended up using on the Mk5.0 were a simplified version of Roderego's. They work pretty well, and produce the right sorts of wrinkles.... but they are a pain in the ass to sew. Those 90° corners may be simple to do with a needle and thread, but they are tedious on a machine. I'm not go...

Mac

Further staring at the blurry, over-enlarged image of the Rodrigo shirt makes me think I can see that the armpit gussets are in two pieces, so I have altered the sketch to reflect that. Taking measurements directly off the monitor has also given me some new values for the the overall length and the ...

Mac

IThe page also includes a possible cutting diagram. It presumes fabric of about 40" in width. It that's unreasonable, then the front and back can be cut as halves from narrower stuff. I didn't have enough room for the entire cutting diagram, so I had to break it up. The wavy lines are the breaks. M...

Mac

I've done something a bit different for this sketch. The proposed Mk 5.0 shirt is shown on the left, and my latest idea about Rodrigo's shirt is on the right. This should point up the differences and the similarities. Below that is another version of part of the hypothetical layout for Rodrigo's shi...

Mac

I've been thinking about Rodrigo's shirt, and I think I understand it now. This sketchbook page shows my current understanding. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EyWc03hS0ObsudjcO6kUZRVOxu8Z90c6err9nWu8CkG0VXYk3czM-wdA9hqZn0QaXGBuWODx_0B3YqFOnsGhdW_Th8INU6zg2h_VWalmXK3qKRuvcvkFGLk1SDk1rD7XDSGgDnIU9P...

Mac

Mac, the original publication of all the garments from the Archbishop's tomb is available for 34 to 47 USD with shipping to Europe (to the USA might cost a little bit more). It might have more sketches, although Anderlini thought that the authors weren't the fastest hands in the tailor's shop. Mari...

Mac

Craig Nadler advised me not to go over 36-38 HRC for plain carbon steels like 1045 and 1050 due to a high chance of cracking. Was he talking about cracking in use?... or cracking in the quench? Where the fancy alloys excel over plane steel is in the quench. If the plane steel comes through without ...

Mac

I have found that 650° F (345°C) works just find for 1050. I don't know what sort of Rockwell hardness numbers I'm getting, but I can remove dents without any problems. It seems to me that if 650°F works for 1050, it should be just fine for 1045. If you don't feel comfortable just taking my word for...

Mac

Well.... I made the Mk4.0 like I sketched it. It works, but I don't really like it. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jYV-Kf4exLoO7m-T5oxXb2LXASVCF8lJ5HFhAWJsuo4lg2wPuaw82nL219XuUJxC8RVr2jx8PNNzlyzoKWakmiMCsfqM-QKLeRGfotiZlQgZPShaTog4yOMp94bsHs1Pl3SdxNOIys8PRyuJV92ZM9Sy3KRfwhFHLbtnhVl9RsZq-IfCgEgEMC...

Mac

Here is the sketch for the Mk 4.0 shirt. The starting point is the Rodrigo shirt, but with full length sleeves that are big enough at the wrists to be pulled back over the elbows. It is also a bit shorter than the Archbishop's shirt; or at least I think it is. It may or may not be as full, but it's ...

Mac

gaukler wrote:Mac is Spanish now?

No, pero mi camisa podría ser.

Mac

Mac

That is, if you think that cutting pattern is inaccurate I don't understand why. I wish I could say it's nothing but plain ignorance, but there must be more to it than that, I'm afraid. :oops: I had not realized that there was a cutting pattern, and made the assumption that what was in the drawing ...

Mac

....Which brings us to Archbishop Rodrigo Ximenez's shirt , which Sean M has mentioned. http://www.kostym.cz/Obrazky/1_Originaly/01_Goticke/I_01_148.jpg Here is my sketch and redaction of the shirt. I am sure I can see the seams which joint the upper edges of the armpit gussets with the lower edge o...

Mac

I think the Gnalic shipwreck shirts of c.1570 are a good place to start. https://i.pinimg.com/564x/a0/fd/26/a0fd266f8283401d16ab223d3ff4bae5.jpg I believe this is the same shirt which Dorothy Burnham illustrates as the Zadar shirt on p.15 of Cut My Cote. https://i.pinimg.com/564x/33/22/8c/33228ccc3...

Mac

Bishop Rodrigo's short shirt is almost 25% wider below the curved armholes than at the shoulder, but a shirt more than twice as wide below the armpits as from shoulder to shoulder does not seem plausible to me. It seems like you are leaning towards pictures of shirts much later and higher in status...

Mac

What I think I really want, is a square(ish) shirt with a better armscye. That would be something that jumped from an 18" shoulder width to something like 46" (circumference) at the armpits, with the expansion happening at the armscye. I can imagine one, but I can't find any extant example like that...

Mac

The thing is, there's another pole of laundry in that picture, below the one you have shown in you detail, and that pole has a couple of items which look a lot more like square-cut shirts than the ones you have been comparing yours to. Yea. The do. I had not seen the full image in a while and did n...

Mac

Yesterday, I spent some time trying to see how my various shirts compared to the one that's been set out to dry here. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JDUJFjek18IUF7OS_m9bl2X1G9EhxCOUzSRSshMepFcHGfZCMo77l40yviSNB1Cb6cLdIqY6ZD5tnlwUmvu8jQI8EOtG6CUJ78yYYX4eAqtic3TqmUrbiA0IHRbHXHEZNa85gYRHesRGmv2zX7rB...

Mac

It seems to me that I've seen one of these on this board within the last year, but I haven't thought of the search string that will find it. If I recall correctly, they are from the third quarter of the 20th C and come from England (?).

Mac

Mac

I was heavily inspired by that project of yours, obviously. Im still waiting for update (last pic of it was thumbs progress, if I recall) :) I'll be returning to that project soon. Aside of gothic, what is that thing (hole?) on left wrist here and what is it for? That is a threaded hole for attachi...

Mac

So... returning to the subject of braies... Just before Pennsic, I made some modifications to my Type III patern, and it seemed to be an improvement. I haven't got any pics of the muslin prototype, because I was in a great tearing hurry to get things done. It took about a day to make 13 pairs in lin...

Mac

For shirt 3.1, I took an inch off of the shoulder width on each side, but kept the skirt the same at the hem. That reduced the chest by about 3" at the level of the points of the armpit gussets. When the prototype was complete, but not yet hemmed, I trimmed about an inch everywhere, and about anothe...

Mac

They are functionally identical except that the square gusset avoids putting a bias seam diretly on the bottom point of the armscye. This is typical of shirt construction over a long period, and I wonder if there is a practical consideration. It's not clear to me that the square gusset is stronger ...

Mac

I've just pinned a big bunch of beggars and peasants to the page . This guy shows the characteristic wrinkles of a sleeve set into a straight seam. He has the diagonal wrinkles which come up from his armpit, and that spiral wrinkle in the upper arm. That's nice attention to detail from the Master of...

Mac

Ok guys, after couple of tries, wasting some leather and a reasonable amount of bad language I decided to drop Mac's idea and attach fingers in simpliest way I can came up with. I guess I can live with two additional rivets on knuckle rider. Edit - I will put a leather washer or something on those ...

Mac

I think you might as well try a shirt with curved armscye to see if that solves the problem. The St. Louis shirt has a slightly curved armscye, although it seems like the people who have viewed the shirt go back and forth on how much: http://heatherrosejones.com/stlouisshirt/ Sean M, has kindly sen...

Mac

I think it's interesting that the St. Clare gown has a tiny square armpit gusset despite the shaping of the armscye. I think it's about putting a bit of bias material at the point of maximum stress so that the seam doesn't tear out. Nevertheless if you wanted to shape your sleeve differently I thin...

Mac

I found a bigger image of that one here , along with a couple others from the same calendar. https://i.pinimg.com/564x/73/be/d2/73bed2d3d7b6b37c309303fef3f92564.jpg It looks like the artist really meant it, and that those lines are not just some slip of the brush. I'm thinking about collecting all t...

Mac

Haha yes, of course I've considered the PDB, but I fear that might be a bit of a copycat move. No one would think ill of you if you built a PDB, but I'm not sure you have enough metal there for it. You've certainly got enough for the Guiron helmet, and probably enough for the odd ball in the Karlsr...

Mac

Here is the 2.0 shirt shown on top of the 3.0 for comparison. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dPc9LvxiDBNkrOkRRTOMFwy6YCP7lgVzKTJncH8Wwif2j70QCIgEDUTiJje8rghLH2w3Q0I5_5g4cBvVGBUKMOLOKjtndYSisxuSQ4OyTRYodg453C6C0epFwAkJsosKQ_k4rVS-eNiDkvRdZ_KPblHc5XWVxqCBCXcqz2PPKGOq6qA_OLW_HjOdCQ1T5Dxm-tLEDfgcJ9GV...

Re: Barbute & Great Bascinet excavated in Spain

Re: Greenwich Buckhurst armour

Re: Greenwich Buckhurst armour

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: Heat treatment data for AISI 1045 / C45 / 1.1730 steel?

Re: Heat treatment data for AISI 1045 / C45 / 1.1730 steel?

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: Help with ID of Armourers mark? 19th or 20th cent

Re: Workshop temperature vs cold dishing

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: Workshop temperature vs cold dishing

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: braies question

Re: Experimental helmet forging

Re: braies question