The Armour Archive

Mac

I made a change to the shoulder while I was making the patterns. The slope seemed a bit much, so I decreased it some. As it was in my sketchbook, it would probably be well suited to the average shape; but my shoulders are very high, so it just seemed ridiculous not to flatten them some. Here is how ...

Mac

To me it seems clear that the St. Louis shirt is essentially cut like the tunic it would be worn under. Perhaps it is a less bulky version of that pattern, but the pattern is the same in concept - and that's a perfectly logical way to conceive a shirt, although it obviously isn't the way they were ...

Mac

Mac, I am starting to see a Germanic tradition of shirts with an open front in the 15th century. Christ bearing the cross 1415-1420 IMAREAL 013016 Christ and the captain of Kapharnaum 1425-1435 IMAREAL 005146 Trojan War 1445-1450 IMAREAL 006477 Martyrdom of St. George with Fire 1465-1470 IMAREAL 00...

Mac

Here is my current idea for shirt 3.0. It's represented by a split front/back plan. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_M1jn1W1QewGTXO8E_YJ8y7Bwet96NX7o5vVvndC8jiM_sAa8Qvv9ih-Vuc44CxfWbwYia8dE4UtYrHn0Ymte20YXQtZqUIUdWh4SwGmP6n2skjHpigLW5LcAKKZ8Jt1to4-CJ5hVdv_Iidn0FbSkAnGn8ijkqo7QagltBNkeya7fjJOou-MvR...

Mac

It's easy to overthink this. That's very true. But it's also easy to underestimate our ancestors. These are both things to guard against. At the end of the day, the garment has to look like how the guys who painted and drew them thought they looked. The wrinkles, folds, and seams should be in the r...

Mac

To my eye, the rectangular shirt is not giving the proper line. It looks like the shirts in the 14th-16th C images are generally fuller, with some folding/draping of fabric beginning in the middle of the chest and back. The tightest and most straight sided of them are still noticeably fuller than wh...

Mac

Opps!

I'm removing this post because it didn't do anything. I started quoting Sean M and then decided to take a different approach. Meanwhile I seem to have posted the quote without comentary

Mac

Mac

Here are the other two views. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JBrpthMje5K5MmFwkqaVZ0VF_twFjrsB7GaOjwYCNi49Z4x4N0MUkxEDLnm6VAWIq1OZZA9-aZTb9rO1QMSFmsbTOsWXYW3allPrZzGflwxz9m5UnjIyUrLJ6gDaSKeoGVi8kmaQ6TbFKsJ6AbwM-GBqRc_FLgKWFgA1xH0ISs0PHT3XzjIPc8mh3lvucNkvDsOeANH-I42nfIiOC1IB0QnPyUU_tYpKESKdUIyjcfoy...

Mac

That's shaping up well! Knuckle articulation can be pretty vexing. It's not that your knuckles are not deep enough, it's that the pivots are too far from the edges. Take an hour or so and make up some two dimensional models of the joints in cardboard. Move the pivots around until you see what's happ...

Mac

The sketch below is what I worked from for the prototype I started yesterday. It's about 4" (100mm) bigger in the chest than than my old shirts, and a couple of inches longer. I decided to put the shoulder seam at the widest point of the neck opening, instead of the highest place on my shoulders. Th...

Mac

I've got the prototype under way, but will not be able to get back to it till tomorrow. There's an amateur astronomer's meeting tonight.

The prototype should be ready for testing by noon; and I'll report back then.

Mac

Mac

So... I have been thinking about something that got bigger as is went down, but still preserved a reasonable shoulder length. Perhaps like the two panel thing on the right. I was also leaning toward a four panel construction (left... smaller scale) so I could sneak in more fabric in the middle. Havi...

Mac

Sean M wrote: I think the Tacuinum thresher has a gore in the bottom of the side seams of his shirt, the line of the bottom of the shirt runs straight across the breeches.

I think you are right about that. If it were a vent, we should see flesh color there.

Mac

Mac

It's a rare thing when artists show us any seam lines, and we have to be grateful when they do. Here are some examples of seams. A center back seam, arm seams, and (perhaps) and armpit gusset from the 1330s frescoes in Sienna. https://i.pinimg.com/564x/8a/1c/bb/8a1cbbf497c535ffb3364d255317d936.jpg W...

Mac

I took some pics of my current shirt model, and I have to admit that it's worse than I had suspected. The general cut can be seen here. There is no shoulder seam, and the bodice widens slightly from the shoulders to the top of the side vents. My thought at the time was that I should stick to somethi...

Mac

I think as long as your hosen point to your braies the shirt can be long, just a bit shorter than the skirt of your tunic so it doesn't peek out. Once your hosen point to your doublet you need to be able to tuck your shirt tails into your hosen, so you want to keep the tails to a minimum. Excess sh...

Mac

OK.. so, here are my design perimeters and requirements for this project.... ---The time frame should be early 15th C. Roberto thinks it's 1419, but like all old guys, his fashion sense is a bit behind the times. ---If my exemplars are North Italian, so much the better; but I'm not going to stress o...

Mac

The last time I examined the question of shirts, there was no internet, and I only had a couple of things to go by. Now, I see that there is a lot more to them than I had imagined. It seems like the overall length varies by quite a bit. Some shirts might barely reach the hips.. https://i.pinimg.com/...

Mac

Does anybody know how they copper plate steel in the time back then? The short answer is that they used an acidic solution which contained copper. Long ago I had a recipe for a "gilding water" to "quicken" steel so that it would accept an amalgam, but I can't remember where to find it again. :oops:...

Mac

Very interesting, indeed!

The armor is also shown with an articulated gorget. I wonder if it originally had one. They appear in art at least a decade earlier, so it's not improbable.

Mac

Mac

What Do you think is the reason or the benefit for such a removeable fauld ? Maybe usefull in foot combat, but there is no missing part on the front faulds, or is it ? I'm not really sure. My impression is that the removable lames that survive are a bit deeper than the permanent plate, but not so m...

Mac

You already have on picture from the Karlsruhe Passion - but this one is also good for shirt related studies. I focus mostly on the time around 1460 but in a HRE-context there are mostly two types of neck openings: the classic keyhole and a simple slit wide enough for the head to pass through and t...

Mac

OK... I've got a start on the shirt thing, and begun a (wait for it..) pinterest page of Medieval Men's Shirts. Please point out any images I missed.

Thanks!
Mac

Mac

I did a bit of work on the "Type IIIs" just before Pennsic, and made up a dozen braies to replace my old ones. They worked OK, but not perfectly. I'll document that a bit later... I'm still recovering. Meanwhile, though.... I could not help noticing that my shirts are in dire need of replacement. I'...

Mac

OK ok, the backplate cullet has no visible holes or rivet pairs on the left side... Butt has anyone an idea for what the two square framed holes on the left and right side are ? Those will be threaded holes by which the (now missing :cry: ) cullet extension would have been attached. This missing pl...

Mac

Mac, thats what i thought about this detail. Now back to the Helmschmid solution, it would be very intersting if the backplate of this cuirass has the same features on its faulds to interact with the front. If the reason for the left side of the fauld plates being on leather is indeed to let that s...

Mac

Tableau wrote:
Mac wrote:The pics aren't showing up.....
Damn! How bout now? I ought to step up my photo uploading game.

They're there now. Thanks!

Mac

Mac

The pics aren't showing up.....

Mac

Mac

On maximilian armours you can sometimes find a similar solution on the tasset-faulds, but on the right ones. Here the used a hinge and a hook to rotate the tasset out of the way of the right leg that needs to go ofer the horse back and the saddle-armament. I thought about those Maximilian hinge-and...

Mac

I think they would be a good deal like the Bienno bucket makers, which are rather... flimsy? is that the word I want? They are very flexible, anyway, which helps to keep shock from being conducted to the smith. If you do not have tongs that flex, in a worst case scenario, especially with a powerful...

Mac

What would be the idea of fastening the faulds of a late gothic breastplate (A62) on the right side via slots and rivets and the left side on leathers? It seems that even more of Helmschieds breastplates have this feature. http://forums.armourarchive.org/phpBB3/download/file.php?id=66957 Interestin...

Mac

That flat back is just plain wrong at that angle. . This has got me thinking about the side view, and something just popped into focus. With the thing at this angle, the point is not the highest place on the helmet. It's sort of like all those modern "bascinets" and "sugar loaf" helms where the poi...

Mac

I would be surprised if it were not a four legged stool/chair. The only three legged ones I know of that have back rests, have the odd leg in back. I'm pretty sure I'm seeing a thing that has two legs in back, and that suggests a total of four. You know... if you think to make one, you'll be happier...

Mac

Are you looking for this guy?... https://i.pinimg.com/564x/eb/a6/bd/eba6bddc643abf066bc0276882713e90.jpg ... or this one?... https://i.pinimg.com/564x/6c/e9/d7/6ce9d717f80ef9021bba0b524e8d7c5b.jpg If it's something else, tell us more about what's important in the pic. Are you looking for a particula...

Mac

John Vernier wrote:I can also recommend the blogs of Paul Sellers https://paulsellers.com/woodworking-blo ... lers-blog/

I second Paul Sellers. His videos are straight forward, no nonsense. He also knows when good enough is good enough.

Mac

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Re: The start of a Journey: professional armouring

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Re: German great bascinet ref_arm_1635 original or fake?

Re: Illumination of a Chair

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Re: 1360s Scabbard Project