Prices/Type Aluminum for Shields?

KennethMacquarrie · Post by **KennethMacquarrie** » Thu Nov 13, 2003 11:07 am

I want to get some sheets of aluminum for shields (to try different shapes and sizes from my standard heater). I called a metal supply place in town and asked for the price on a 3'x3' sheet of 1/8th inch 6061-T6. they quoted me $105 bucks! I can buy shield blanks already shaped and curved for $50. What gives? Did I ask for the wrong thing? Is there a difference between aluminum sheet and plate? What do folks on the list do for this?

Kenneth

Jean Paul de Sens · Post by **Jean Paul de Sens** » Thu Nov 13, 2003 12:12 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by KennethMacquarrie:
I want to get some sheets of aluminum for shields (to try different shapes and sizes from my standard heater). I called a metal supply place in town and asked for the price on a 3'x3' sheet of 1/8th inch 6061-T6. they quoted me $105 bucks! I can buy shield blanks already shaped and curved for $50. What gives? Did I ask for the wrong thing? Is there a difference between aluminum sheet and plate? What do folks on the list do for this?

Kenneth <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Usually, you get better prices if you buy a full sheet (typically 4'x8' or 4'x10').... call and ask them how much that is... cut your shield out and sell the rest to somebody else.

Captain Jamie · Post by **Captain Jamie** » Thu Nov 13, 2003 1:42 pm

Yes alloy and treatment makes a difference in the price. Also why are you using a .125" plate? Most fighters find 6061 T6 in .063 to .090 to be adequate for their needs. Try finding 5052 H38 or H36. Even in full sheets it is going to be expensive. I typically buy 500 lbs or more at one time and I do it several times a year. If you can't get the price down give e-mail me at bymyhand@bymyhanddesigns.com and we will see what we can work out.

------------------
Captain Jamie-a marvellous valorous gentleman, that is certain
Failure is the price of knowledge
Changing the face of warfare one weapon at a time

Christophe de Frisselle · Thu Nov 13, 2003 3:25 pm

I've been doing the same thing, wanting to replace my 8 yr old street sign shield. The prices I was getting where like what you quoted. $101~ for a 24" X 48" sheet. The whole sheet was $168, it was .1 or .125.
I ended up looking around on the web. Searched ebay, missed some auctions by not searching there first. Some of the sellers had stores, checked them out. Found this one off an auction. http://www.auctionworks.com/store/gallery.asp?sfo=lowcostmetals
Ended up getting a 24"X48" sheet of .09" 7075-T6 for $29.99 plus $17 shipping.
Thing is the shipping is going to be high, unless you buy in bulk. Still alot cheaper than $101.
If you just want to try different shapes and size, you might want getting some scrap or old DOT signage.

sedric · Post by **sedric** » Thu Nov 13, 2003 6:09 pm

Christophe You da man!
I lost the link to that place. I was about to order stainless at nearly twice the prices list there!
Thank you, and I owe you a beer.
Sedric

Cet · Post by **Cet** » Thu Nov 13, 2003 7:28 pm

Thanks for that link

Great score on the 7075, you'll have that shield for generations.

KennethMacquarrie · Post by **KennethMacquarrie** » Fri Nov 14, 2003 9:47 am

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by Captain Jamie:
Yes alloy and treatment makes a difference in the price. Also why are you using a .125" plate? Most fighters find 6061 T6 in .063 to .090 to be adequate for their needs. Try finding 5052 H38 or H36.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

One place yesterday quotedme $85.00 for a full sheet (4x8) of .100 5052, but I didn't know if that would stand up as an SCA shield. I thought that 6061 was tempered/heat treated, and that was why it could stand up to the beatings. I was able to pick up a 2x4 sheet of .090 6061 for $45. But if the 5052 will work for SCA shields, I think I'll buy that as well. Has anyone had any problems with 5052 bending at the edges? I bought a shiled this knight was selling about 10 years ago that bent in every time it was hit on the edge (I punch block). After bout 3 fights, it looked like a coke bottle cap. I didn't want that to happen again.

Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

Kenneth

Captain Jamie · Post by **Captain Jamie** » Fri Nov 14, 2003 12:31 pm

5052 in a proper hardness will be fine. I use H38 material. It has been cold worked by large rollers down to it's present thickness of .100". It picks up a lot of yield strength from being worked like this. It can be annealed but not made harder by heat treatment only by reduction of the cross section i.e. smacking it. Typical yield strength certs are 40-42 kpsi. If it does bend you can bang it out again and it is less prone to the stress cracking that the 6061 alloy does. I use to use H32 material but I wasn't satisfied with the dent resistance.

------------------
Captain Jamie-a marvellous valorous gentleman, that is certain
Failure is the price of knowledge
Changing the face of warfare one weapon at a time

Magnus The Black · Post by **Magnus The Black** » Fri Nov 14, 2003 1:27 pm

One of your best options is find someone who works in the aircraft field or an airbase and get the scrap from them. Damaged pannels cannot go back on they have to be replaced. But they do make great sheilds. A more period practice is of course to use wood. I figure I will switch over to wood when my alluminum shield breaks... maybe sometime around 2050? or after I get the rest of my kit upto par (probably mucch sooner)

Julian Danois · Post by **Julian Danois** » Fri Nov 14, 2003 2:12 pm

Quick note on aluminum hardness as it relates to the above alloys. 6061 has hardness 30 (HB500) as opposed to 2052 H32 which is 60 and H38 which is 77, so clearly quite an increase despite the almost equal densities (2.7 for 6061 and 2.68 for 5052).

Julian