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Darkening/Aging aluminum armor pieces

Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 12:10 am
by Gabriel von Stettin
Does anyone know of any reliable ways to get a good aged or darkened finish on aluminum armor pieces (T6 lamellar, splints, zertsalo plates etc)? A friend and I have looked up several ways online, but we've met with failure after failure thus far, and would like advice from those that may have a bit more experience, specifically in an armouring sense. Ideally looking at making the pieces look a little less like, well, aluminum. Neither of us are overly into mirror finishes, and like the character some aging gives a piece. While much respect is given to shiny and its conveyence of bad assery, there is something to be said about looking completely awesome in a subdued sort of way, if that makes sense. Also, we're not looking to completely blacken a piece either, just giving it the previously mentioned weathered character.

Paints aren't exactly the way we want to go, unless there are some genuinely effective paints that don't give a painted texture. Already tried a little red oxide primer that was then largely polished away, leaving a rusty color residue, giving an almost rusted steel look, though it still *really* looked like aluminum with red oxide prime on it :? .

Thanks for any advice and wisdom that can be imparted. :)

Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 12:29 am
by audax
anodizing or acid etching

Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 1:32 am
by Marius Brittanicus
I did plates using Ferric Chloride...use caution and you should be fine

http://forums.armourarchive.org/phpBB2/ ... highlight=

Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 5:31 pm
by Varukh
would muriatic acid work?

Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 7:49 pm
by Angusm0628
I have my aluminium Haubergeon and aventail powder coated. Otherwise acid etch or anodizing is the way to go

Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 9:28 pm
by Zohar
muriatic acid, the kind used for washing bricks, will work, but it is not as strong an acid. Ferric Chloride, which can be picked up at radio shack among many places, is much stronger so it takes less time. mur acid will take longer because it is more like cleaning pickle.

Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 8:03 am
by Balthazar von Knopf
Wow, with un-diluted muratic I've had very good luck and fast results. On sone etching projects I've been able to get .008 deep in 2 minutes. The boiling effect is pretty cool, but the fumes are pretty harsh, so make sure to do it outside and have a fan blowing directly over it.

Visually it leaves a dull grey color, almost battleship grey, so it may not be quite what your looking for.

Balthazar
RJB Ironworks

Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 8:44 am
by Adric13
I know about iron and al oxid making for a nice hot fire and if you don't some will jump in here talk about this being dangerish I'm sure. But. I had iron shavings sitting on an al road sign. The rust stains did a good job of rusting the al. Which lead to tryin to rust stain al to give an iron look. It works... YMMV.

Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 8:48 am
by Brennainn
Season it with vegitable oil.
Thanks,
Brennainn

Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:49 am
by Agnarr
Works toilet bowl cleaner.