The Armour Archive

Styled after Wisby. Client didnt want a rider plate and wanted them riveted to the glove.
Medium carbon steel ~.036 thickness. Hardened tempered...each gauntlets weighs around a little more than a pound.

Personal choices - add rider plate, stitch to glove, articulate thumb...

cool!

...I'll be in my bunk...

Tips for construction

1) Stitch "'metacarpal" leather to cuff leather before attaching metal. (did this)

2) Punch holes for cuff splints in leather cuff before stitching to "metacarpal" leather. (didnt do this)

3) Punch into leather with an awl instead of a hole punch. Makes for sturdier hold. (did this)

4) Complete in timely manner so friend doesnt offer to hunt you down with a stick.... (didnt do this...)

Wow I'm working on Wisby Gauntlets too . I need help I had one questions .
You said your thickness is .036, thats about 20gauge? and I'm using 16gauge for mine, is that way to thick? But of course mine aren't going to be Hardened Tempered, so is 16g right for something not tempered? Mines galvy which is just mild steel, I think.

Really nice Wisby gaunts!

Ironic wrote:Wow I'm working on Wisby Gauntlets too . I need help I had one questions .
You said your thickness is .036, thats about 20gauge? and I'm using 16gauge for mine, is that way to thick? But of course mine aren't going to be Hardened Tempered, so is 16g right for something not tempered? Mines galvy which is just mild steel, I think.

Really nice Wisby gaunts!

It is about what is measured as 20ga, yes. I can make it that thin because it is hardened and tempered. I would not want anything less than "16ga" on my hands otherwise. And galvy is almost always mild (in my exp.) The thickness will end up being heavy, however.

Kenwrec Wulfe those are very sweet and are very close to what I am looking for in a finger gauntlet. Do you have any better pictures of the cuff by chance? and how much would you charge to make a pair of these with the upgrades you mentioned in your post

What is the weight of the leather in the cuff?

Just a random question- whats the minimum thickness you think would work safely in mystery stainless steel?
I can get scrap cheap- but completely without any way to determine its alloy.
(Its usually got white plastic sheet on one side that you peel off to protect the fine satin finish it comes in- if that helps in any way to figure out what it is.)

I'm thinking 18 gauge minimum, but I'd like a second opinion.
Thanks.

-Badger-

Nuada wrote:Kenwrec Wulfe those are very sweet and are very close to what I am looking for in a finger gauntlet. Do you have any better pictures of the cuff by chance? and how much would you charge to make a pair of these with the upgrades you mentioned in your post

The cuffs are actually not done yet. When I have completed them, I will take pix, inside and out.

Jan wrote:What is the weight of the leather in the cuff?

4oz

Ironbadger wrote:Just a random question- whats the minimum thickness you think would work safely in mystery stainless steel?
I can get scrap cheap- but completely without any way to determine its alloy.
(Its usually got white plastic sheet on one side that you peel off to protect the fine satin finish it comes in- if that helps in any way to figure out what it is.)

I'm thinking 18 gauge minimum, but I'd like a second opinion.
Thanks.

-Badger-

That is a loaded question - it REALLY depends on the other alloys in the SS. I would definitely not go less than .048 (~18ga), but for the majority of SS, I would still not feel safe without .06 (~16ga).

Nuada wrote: and how much would you charge to make a pair of these with the upgrades you mentioned in your post

For .036 1050 carbon steel, 4oz top-grain leather , hardened, tempered, with rider plate and stitched (without brass or fancy rivets) - ~600$

However, I am currently in a pint sized shop, with access to my heat or kiln, so not in a position to start any new projects currently.

Hi Kenwrec!

Hope all is well with you down in Florida. Are those gauntlets for someone who is in the SCA? Are you going with extra padding to compensate for the lack of grounding fingers? The carbon steel...is that spring steel? Was the steel easy enough to cut with a jig saw and metal cutting blade? I have access to an awesome metal retail warehouse so metal is not an issue. Oh, and errr....what's a rider plate?

Seved Ribbing wrote:Hi Kenwrec!

Hope all is well with you down in Florida. Are those gauntlets for someone who is in the SCA? Are you going with extra padding to compensate for the lack of grounding fingers? The carbon steel...is that spring steel? Was the steel easy enough to cut with a jig saw and metal cutting blade? I have access to an awesome metal retail warehouse so metal is not an issue. Oh, and errr....what's a rider plate?

For SCA, yes. Extra Padding, yes. Spring steel, yes. I have a beverly shear for cutting, but I also cut it anealled and hardened and tempered it after shaping.

Rider plate = It is an articulated plate that "rides" between the metacarpal plate and the finger plates, to which the finger plates are attached. Allows for a little better hand/finger movement while maintaining full coverage of the knuckles.

Completed Gauntlets:

Kenwrec...

.... those are great! ...

You're.... despicable! In the best sort of way though!

Good work!

Those look great. I gotta try making a pair of those.

Knuckle rider plate also allows you to flatten your hand without the knuckles of the metacarpal digging in.

Nice gauntlets.

The question about stainless gauge. Go with 16 on the metacarpal plates. 18 is good on the fingers. The cuff splints if they're 1" wide or less go with 14.

At least that's what I do.

I'll add another construction tip.

Shape the metacarpal and the thumb part of the metacarpal as one piece then cut the thumb part off with a cutting disk. Much easier to get the plates to match up.

Mad Matt wrote:I'll add another construction tip.

Shape the metacarpal and the thumb part of the metacarpal as one piece then cut the thumb part off with a cutting disk. Much easier to get the plates to match up.

I will second this tip. I did that (some time ago) and it worked great.

Gilebert wrote:Kenwrec...

.... those are great! ...

You're.... despicable! In the best sort of way though!

Good work!

Thanks!

Not soo despicable though...are not pretties for me...they are for a friend up in Chicago. My pretties are coming as soon as I have my full shop set up. The pint sized shop (what I have now) has no fire/heat, beverly, dedicated workbench or kiln.

I have been there plenty of times.

There is no greater hell than being a craftsman with no place to work, and no tools.

-Badger-

Not soo despicable though...are not pretties for me...they are for a friend up in Chicago. My pretties are coming as soon as I have my full shop set up. The pint sized shop (what I have now) has no fire/heat, beverly, dedicated workbench or kiln.