Shield edging?

[Livia Tasia]

I have my new Windrose shield and it came pre drilled and with the edging that slips neatly on. But what kind of 'cord' do I use to cinch it down?

Also I opted for them to put on the canvas for me. What kind of paint do you use to paint it?

Thanks!!

Tasia

[InsaneIrish]

Paracord is predominantely used.

I would use acrylic paint.

[Payn]

I use leather straps and quick rivets.

[Sigismund von Helfenstein]

Black zip-ties are easy, quick, easily replaced, durable, and don't look terrible, at least from the outer face of the shield.

Good solution if aesthetics are not a huge priority for you.

[Konstantin the Red]

A coat or two of white acrylic for surface prep, then go to town on that Device.

[Rayner]

Black zip-ties are easy, quick, easily replaced, durable, and don't look terrible, at least from the outer face of the shield.

Good solution if aesthetics are not a huge priority for you.

This, and I dont think zip ties hurt the aesthetics of an aluminum shield if you are using the plastic trim.

[Livia Tasia]

Thanks! So just acrylic? Doesn't have to be indoor/outdoor sort of deal? Then paint white and then paint the color I want?

The last shield I painted I used outdoor paint but for some reason when it rained and got wet then hit it splashed paint. No idea what I did wrong.

[Sigismund von Helfenstein]

Thanks! So just acrylic? Doesn't have to be indoor/outdoor sort of deal? Then paint white and then paint the color I want?

The last shield I painted I used outdoor paint but for some reason when it rained and got wet then hit it splashed paint. No idea what I did wrong.

Sounds like you laid it on too thick. With that heavy duty acrylic stuff, if you put on too much paint the outside can dry and leave a gooey acrylic flavored center just waiting to get smooshed.

A nice white basecoat, laid on evenly and let dry. Then paint on your arms, letting it dry between coats if you need to do multiple. Nothing wrong with using the outdoor acrylic paint for this though I have found it gets a sort of rubbery finish if you put it on too thick, designed mostly to shrug off water and dirt, not so much rattan swords.

EDIT: The paint may also have just been not quite completely dry. Until acrylic fully dries and hardens, it is still partially water soluble.

[Ogedei]

I use leather tabs on my heater, but I have this idea to replace them with brass.
Paracord would work.
I currently have hocley lace on my small round.

[InsaneIrish]

Acrylic dries into a waterproof flexible plasticy finish.

After you are finished painting, put about 10 coats of clear coat enamel on it.

I hate zip ties. Just use paracord if you are not going to use leather tabs.

[Sigismund von Helfenstein]

After you are finished painting, put about 10 coats of clear coat enamel on it.

You learn something new every day. Or rather, you realize what you did wrong the last time.

[Malek]

Acrylic dries into a waterproof flexible plasticy finish.

After you are finished painting, put about 10 coats of clear coat enamel on it.

I hate zip ties. Just use paracord if you are not going to use leather tabs.

When coating it with the clear coat - be sure it's fully dry before the next layer. My method is to spray a coat on before I leave for work in the morning, again when I get home and once more close to bedtime. This puts about 4-8 hours between coats. Now that weather in our area is better, you can leave it outside in a sunny area to dry and cure better.

Also I would suggest a couple of bottles of hobby acrylic paint - the same kind of stuff people use to paint miniatures. It allows more detail than household acrylic paint.

Also do the clear coating BEFORE putting the edging on - some lessons need not be learned the hard way!

[Payn]

I use leather tabs on my heater, but I have this idea to replace them with brass...

The first thought I had was Plumbers Tape, which scared the crap out of me. I will hold off my total fear and ask, what thickness were you thinking? I ask, because I would be worried about a metal edge getting broken in a high use area.

[Ogedei]

I use leather tabs on my heater, but I have this idea to replace them with brass...

The first thought I had was Plumbers Tape, which scared the crap out of me. I will hold off my total fear and ask, what thickness were you thinking? I ask, because I would be worried about a metal edge getting broken in a high use area.

Ok well

A) I have a LOT of ideas, some come to fruition, some don't. That is a pretty low on the pole one since it is functional as is

B) I was thinking a fairly decent thickness, probably use some kinda railroad brass, since I can buy it in appropriate widths and I am lazy.

C) I can't see it being any worse than the aluminum challenging people use that needs to be cut and sometimes ends up exposed.

D) It may simply add too much weight to the heater as well, who knows. I just think it would look pretty cool

[Galfrid atte grene]

I use thin blackened wire - maybe 24 gauge to tie down the edging. You really only need 2-3 loops per side of the shield. The wire blends in nicely against the black edging and will literally cut through the edging before coming loose itself. Also super easy to remove when you have to replace the edging.