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Pattern for Armour

Posted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 11:07 am
by bigfredb
Does anybody have a pattern for a Churberg breastplate (and all of the other plates) like the ones from Icefalcon or truhearth?

If not, can someone describe how to develop a pattern that will look correct (what and where to measure)?

Re: Pattern for Armour

Posted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 12:02 pm
by losthelm
The churberg #13 or the #14 breastplate?
The #14 is a peascod or Globose style depending on how its shaped and there are a bunch of patterns on the net.

The #13 is almost a Corrazina without the skirt and replaceing the outer shell with an internal strap articulation.

Its fairly straight forward I started my rought prototype from a dublet pattern transfering it to posterboard.
then cut the front down untill it looked like it should and created the center plate about 5" wide growing to about 6 in the center with a good 1" overlap between the center and side plates. after that I used a bunch of poster board for a mock up the rest. cutting away bits untill it looked right and tested the articulation with brass paper fasterners and twill tape straps because it was cheap.
For the back I modified a wisby cop pattern and used strap articulation between the front and side/back plates.

It goes a lot faster if you have someone about the same size for a body dubble or have one made up from ducktape and an old tshirt. Live casting would be a cool option but takes a little know how and takes up a lot of space.

MadMatt hear on the archive was selling His Cop pattern and a few others Its probibly a good investment..

Talbot also has patterns for the Globose and Corrazina style so it should save sometime using that as a starting point.

Re: Pattern for Armour

Posted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 12:07 pm
by bigfredb
Im looking at the #13 . . .

Re: Pattern for Armour

Posted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 8:18 pm
by Konstantin the Red
Churburg 13 segmented breast isn't held together with straps riveted in, but with a leather lining. The original item has one large piece of leather all across the entire interior, though a rattan-player can probably manage nicely with two pieces of leather and some separation along the centerline. (Handy for smuggling a water boda in there for those prolonged woods-battles. You could pack yourself a sandwich in there too. And in the words of Charles the Second, "endure a siege.")

The shapes are all pretty simple. TOMAR has directions to a simpler edition yet, reducing the original nine-plate piece to a mere seven rather larger plates, by combining the center segment with the flanking pieces the original has. The center segment of the original nine-piecer, the largest and tallest piece, is quite shallowly dished up top near the throat, to quite deeply curved at just above the solar plexus level and then pulling strongly in, fairly flat now, to where the breastplate ends at the short-ribs level. Avoid trying to make this piece too tall; it gives little coverage to the belly and stops short of the belly-button by inches.

The two pieces flanking the center segment and defining the entire front of the armhole in the original also bear the attachment of the shoulder straps, that the segments may yield to your arm movements but then pull back into position afterwards. The original piece shows the BP's shoulder straps dividing into a Y on the end, one branch attaching to the center segment at its upper corner each side, the other branch to the flanking piece.

The pieces do not move around very much relative to each other. Open up, put on, buckle shut down low. Some SCAdians have tried supplemental plates at the ends of the arms to give full kidney coverage. Others just hide separate plastic or aluminum plates inside an armyng-cote, or beneath this bp in any case.