The Armour Archive

Just received my plates in the mail and now I'm trying to decide what to use for backing.
I'm looking at 5-6oz, this:
http://springfieldleather.com/32800/Sid ... ed%2CAsst/
Would this work well?

Also, square footage; what am I looking for? I'm 5-9" 150, not a big fella, if that helps with a guess at footage.

When you say backing you are actually talking about the covering? What the plates get riveted to on the outside?

I would go with 4-5 oz, personally. You want the leather to hold the plates but aren't asking it to provide protection, so the lighter range should be plenty for the job.

And as Irish said, with a COP the leather/fabric is on the outside, over the plates.

Sorry, yes I of course meant the covering.
Now should I go for oil tanned or chrome-tanned leather? I thought I remember hearing that oil-tanned is given to stretching more than chrome-tanned.
I gues I could do canvas, just assumed that leather would last longer.

Actually if you want your investment of time and materials to last longer, use the lightest painters' canvas as a base, leather on top. Use an awl to drive your holes not a punch.

Small sheets of canvas are available dirt cheap at most paint stores and even at big box builders' supply. It doesn't add much weigh, literally ounces but really supports the leather. The oil stuffed leathers look better than most plain chrome tanned made for bags and upholstery. Stretch is irrelevant when backed with fabric.

Oh, yeah. Just by a side of leather, which will usually be 18-25 sq feet. If you order by the square foot, it will likely cost more. Leather shops tend to charge more once they put a knife into the leather. The remnant has to be sold as scrap.

Lucian Ro wrote:Sorry, yes I of course meant the covering.
Now should I go for oil tanned or chrome-tanned leather? I thought I remember hearing that oil-tanned is given to stretching more than chrome-tanned.
I gues I could do canvas, just assumed that leather would last longer.

The issue with Leather is that if a rivet pulls through the leather, or a hole rips, it is a PITA to replace/repair.
With Canvas you and sew it back up and move on.

Kel Rekuta wrote:Actually if you want your investment of time and materials to last longer, use the lightest painters' canvas as a base, leather on top. Use an awl to drive your holes not a punch.

Small sheets of canvas are available dirt cheap at most paint stores and even at big box builders' supply. It doesn't add much weigh, literally ounces but really supports the leather. The oil stuffed leathers look better than most plain chrome tanned made for bags and upholstery. Stretch is irrelevant when backed with fabric.

Oh, yeah. Just by a side of leather, which will usually be 18-25 sq feet. If you order by the square foot, it will likely cost more. Leather shops tend to charge more once they put a knife into the leather. The remnant has to be sold as scrap.

I'll second everything Kel said.