Mig welder issues.... HELP!!!

[RandallMoffett]

So today I got a kink on the welding wire inside the box between the spool and the funnel and wheel that draws the wire into the hose.

I took it out. Cut the kink and reload the wire in. It runs what must be the majority of the hose then stops....

I take the wire out. Reload the wire. Same thing. Stops what must be 85-90% of the hose.

Cut the wire to ensure I had a straight wire to feed. Reload and nothing.....

Any ideas? It was working fine this morning until the kink but I cannot figure anything is wrong anywhere inside the box or the hose.

You pro welders out there any ideas? I have reloaded the wire in this mig many times and never had any issues.

RPM

[The Iron Dwarf]

when did you last replace the liner in your hose?
mostly they are like a long spring covered in a plastic sleeve with some bare spring at the torch end and a brass fitting at the other.
you also have to trim them to size before use.
depending on your torch and hose ( on most the good ones here you only need to unscrew the outer nut to remove the whole thing then from the torch end remove the shroud and tip and the bit behind the tip, next try feeding some wire by hand down the whole length until it comes out the torch end, does it move easily?.
if not there is normally a brass nut to remove on the welder end and you can then slide out the liner.
using some mig wire with even a small amount of rust on it can cause feed problems and I replace liners at least once a year as well as keeping a spare, here they cost less than 5 pounds ( $7.50 )

[RandallMoffett]

Iron Dwarf,

Thank you for the idea. I have a feeling this may be a good place to start.

I have a small bit of heavy cloth right before the funnel for the wire feed that I was told is a good thing to keep it there so that the wire is rust free as it goes into the hose so I hope there is no rust inside but that said the hose is likely pretty old.

I just hope it comes off that easy! I am more or less teaching myself how to do this and the manual is pretty unhelpful in most respects.

RPM

[CTrumbore]

Check the nozzle.. make sure you don't have spattered or gook blocking the wire from making it through. Sometimes the brass shroud gets gummed up, especially if the wire stalled during a burn.

[coreythompsonhm]

What Iron Dwarf said. Plus make sure that your wire will run through the torch freely as well.

Its a good time to check everything while you have it apart.

[The Iron Dwarf]

I normally keep at least 50 spare tips, 2 shrouds, 1 liner and a complete spare hose and torch handy as a breakdown can mean loss of income, spare pro torch and hose cost me about 25 uk pounds for a good quality one ( about $37 ).
I also have access to another bigger mig and at least 4 stick welders.
here most torches have a universal connecter so changing one takes less than 1 minute including feeding the wire through the hose and most hoses here are 16 or 20 foot long, I also have 2 heavy duty water cooled torches but have never needed them yet.

[Emeryk]

It sounds like it's getting stuck where the liner meets the gas difuser or your liner is realy worn out.

[RandallMoffett]

So I started to take it apart and found that it was indeed stuck at the gas difuser. I stuck two entire lengths through it and nothing slowed it down at all. For some reason when it is autoloading it keeps catching on the gas difuser. I tried running it a few times more and every time it gets stuck there. This has never happened the half a dozen to a dozen times I have reloaded this so I am wondering what may have happened. It was working fine this morning and out of no where just decided it will not line up any more....

That said I use a bit of heavy wire and can wiggle the thing around to get it in alright but wish I knew what the issue is.

Thanks for all your help gents! I really wish I was a better welder but my welds are improving and I figure in the near future things might work out. Right now I can get strong welds but many look only so-so. But slow and steady I am getting it. A friend of mine thinks it is all my lack of shield gas and that may be true...

Thanks again everyone!

RPM

[losthelm]

You may be getting a little burr when cutting the wire and loading the gun.
Another common cause is change in wire size, often the feed rollers will have two grooves, useing the wrong grove will cause the wire to slip a little.

As for shielding gas Co2 will be the cheap option for steel.
A bit more cleanup than argon or mixed shielding gas.
An auto dark mask and useing the right gloves will also help a new welder.

Lincoln or miller may have some free literature to help ajust heat and wire speed.
As well as weld characteristics.
Take your time and pratice.

[coreythompsonhm]

I like a co2/argon mix. I believe Im using a 75/25 mix, I would have to check the bottle when I get home. I dont like using straight argon unless Im welding aluminum.

[NateS]

It sounds like the wire may be getting crimped when cutting it. Causing the wire end to be out of round and catch in the gun. This seems to happen often with flux core wire.

[RandallMoffett]

Lost helm,

Might be. I just use some simple wire cutters. I got some new wire recently but they are the same thickness according to the package at least.

I got a autodarkening mask and it has made a huge difference. I can actually see the entire time and not just once the welder has gotten going.... big difference starting in the right place.

how does one control the volume of gas that is used? Does it stop when I stop welding or is the value the only stop?

Collyn,

What would one use to avoid such crimping?

Thanks again.

RPM

[coreythompsonhm]

Regulate your cfm with a regulator on the tank. I rarely have to feed wire through unless Im changing wire. If its a crimped end, then I usually clean it up with a small, fine file real quick just to save my liner from getting excessive scratches.

[Theo]

There's MIG welding pliers. They have a wire cutter, work about as well as needle nose pliers for unjamming bird's nests inside your machine, and the outside jaws of the pliers can be used for scraping the slag out of your gas nozzle. It also loosens and tightens welding tips. These are also called welpers, and more expensive (and better) versions of these exist. Mine are Harbor Freight and are of acceptable quality, YMMV as with anything you buy from Harbor Freight.

[The Iron Dwarf]

unless your welder is a gasless only one inside your welder there will be a solenoid valve that lets the gas flow when you are welding and shuts it off when you stop, flow is also controlled by the regulator setting

[NateS]

Typically wire cutters or dikes are meant for solid and stranded wire for electrical use. The cutting face is more blunt and will pinch before it cuts through. A decent pair of welders pliers should cut without pinching or you can file the end of the wire before feeding it through. If you have a fine steel file on hand I would just use that until you can pick up a decent pair of welpers. The harbor freight pair are ok but some still have a tendency to pinch.

[losthelm]

Try running your fingers down the wire to check for a burr, often you only need to load the welder when you get a birds nest or a new spool of wire.

if its a issue between the linner and the defuser/dontact you might be able to feed a few feet out and then attach the copper. its a bit more work but may get you up and running.

A good pair of Mig Pliers and tip cleaners may also help, expecialy if your doing bar work or a lot of short welds.
The anti spater spray can also help with clean up depending on the project.

[RandallMoffett]

Thanks for the info! Will look into welding pliers. I think my mig is set up for gas... not sure how it hooks up externally but inside there are gas tubes and such that connect to the hose.

I have some of the welding dip and it tends to keep splatter down but I really am thinking of getting some shielding gas as it is still a bit messy. Does the gas allow the bead to stay together more? What are the benefits of the shielding gas?

Thanks again!

RPM

[The Iron Dwarf]

with the wire I use I get 15kg (about 40lbs ) for 10 UK pounds ( $15 ) for gasless wire it is about 0.4kg ( 1lb ) for about 8 uk pounds ( $12 ).
a small bottle of CO2 lasts me 3 weeks at least and I do a lot of welding ( dont get the little disposable bottles, get bigger refillable ones )

[CTrumbore]

Thanks for the info! Will look into welding pliers. I think my mig is set up for gas... not sure how it hooks up externally but inside there are gas tubes and such that connect to the hose.

I have some of the welding dip and it tends to keep splatter down but I really am thinking of getting some shielding gas as it is still a bit messy. Does the gas allow the bead to stay together more? What are the benefits of the shielding gas?

Thanks again!

RPM

Less slag and bubbles, for the most part. Keeps the weld from burning more than just melting and puddling cleanly. Very noticeable difference on some metals, not so much on others.

[Konstantin the Red]

What shielding gas is supposed to do is prevent the formation of oxides and nitrides in the melt-puddle. You can see where that just might be kind of handy.

[RandallMoffett]

Thanks for the info. Major pains they are for good welds. Certainly sounds worth while. I will have to figure out how the shield gas system works sometime and five it a try.

RPM

[losthelm]

Not all flux core is created equil I had a 10# spool in 02 that was absolute crap.
Your local welding supply may have a better quality flux core as well.

As for shielding gas a lot of the equipment for beer taps and larger soda machines will work.
Co2, regulator, a hoses and you should be in busness.
a lot of manuals for older equipment can be found online or requested from the manufacturer.

[RandallMoffett]

So I have some helmets that have the silly welding bubbles. Is there are way to clean them up at all? Most are not very deep but I'd like to make them more visually appealing?

Any ideas gentlemen and ladies?

RPM

[losthelm]

Grind the joint and possibly lay down another bead.

What torch angle are you using?

[Bender]

Your liner got a burr inside from the kinked wire,replace it.

[RandallMoffett]

LH,

Something like a 45 degree I'd expect. Not sure exactly. What would you recommend. Not sure anyone has ever told me I needed a specific angle so this might be very helpful.

RPM

[CTrumbore]

Depends on whether you are pulling or pushing the weld, and how the puddle behaves, in my experience. Practice on scrap from the helmet first to get the best technique.

[losthelm]

Pulling with a backhand technique leads to a better penatration.
Pushing with a forehand technique leads to a wider flatter bead though with arc, or flux core you end up with a lot more inclusions and a porosity.

Miller, lincon, and esab have a bit of literature on trubble shooting problems and how to via their web page.

[RandallMoffett]

Whoa I suspect this is what my issue is. From what I had heard I thought I could pull or push at will. Looks like that is not true.

Thanks I will try it out.

Part of the problem with scrap metal practice is it is flat. I can get great welds on the flat. The complex curves are where I find it hard to get the weld right.

I'll give it a try though.

Thanks again!

RPM

[The Iron Dwarf]

normally I would push for gas and pull for gasless