The Armour Archive

Does anybody know the drying time for Tandy's Leather Weld?

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Why? You bought a bottle? Bladeforums.com had this to say, from poster Sheathmaker:

I think you would be better served by almost any brand of CONTACT cement. Tanner's Bond, Barge, Weldwood Contact Cement (from your local hardware store). I can't find any information on the formulation of Leather Weld, but based on the instructions for use I would guess it's even water soluble. The fact that they recommend constant pressure until it is dry is a big negative and a tip off on the probable worth of the product for leather use.

Same thread, poster Psycho78:

I use the Weldwood stuff from Home Depot. Let it dry a little bit on the two sides youre bonding, stick it together and tap it with a mallet....and if done right you cannot pry that stuff apart if you wanted to. I tried once after I screwed up. When it's stuck, its STUCK!..

I looked for Barge when i started making because thats what everyone uses, but got the Weldwood stuff because it was convenient at the time. Haven't looked back. It works great and it's easy.

This on leather yet. Might be at a better price than a tube of Barge, who knows. The whole thread is worth a read.

And a time ref -- sounds a lot like how you use carpenters's glue. Comparisons to Elmer's Glue abound.

I have been using it, and I use it when it needs to be bonded better then contact cement.... is a bit thicker than Elmers white school glue, so I use a brush to apply it, I use pressure to hold the two pieces together and give it 20-30 minutes minimum to cure.... I like to give it over night, but after 20 munites I am able to go back working with it without it coming apart.... what seeps out the sides I roll off with my thumb, and go back to work on it.... I love it.... on anything you are bonding flesh side to flesh side where the flesh side is smooth.... you need to rough it up... especially with latigo.

Latigo would be hard to glue anyway, with all its waxes and oils. Tanners' Bond is also sold by Tandy/LF.

Much reference/contrasting with Barge Cement (old, toluene, yellow tube and new, non-toluene, blue tube) and a brand called Masters.

Somebody else claims it dries waterproof:

I have used the white leather glue from Tandy for years with great success..Lokks like Elmers old school white glue..but is MUCH better..Waterproof.. It's Tandy's 'Leather Weld'..

Tacks up well in about 10 minutes so you can fiddle to get all positioned properly..dries clear..Strong..Inexpensive.

Sheridan's Master Leather contact cement:

Barge is a fine product, but Master is a little bit cheaper, flexible,and tacky in just 2 minutes and bonds unbelievable.

A Shoe Shop owner told me about Master,that's the only reason I tried it out

http://www.sheridanleather.com/Masters_p/masters.htm

And you can get it by the quart. Just the thing for the ambitious leatherworker.

It may be harder to get in germany,
I use duall 88, or the xl8 for most of my glueing needs. .
I suspect your probibly stiching the seam as well,

My wife bought me a "leatherworking kit" for Christmas, along with a copy of Al Stohlman's "Leatherwork manual" The leather weld came in the kit. I worked through the projects in the kit. I've been working leather for decades, and I was surprised at the number of things that I either didn't know, or really needed to improve.

From experience, a 31 inch seam drys well overnight.

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after 5 glued and then two needle saddle stitched seams, drying time is 2 hours and 20 minutes until the glue joint is strong enough to put in the leather pony.

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