Björns Junkjard

[Indianer]

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[Scott Martin]

Hey Bjorn

I think that you have a number of issues here, and may want to back up and look at *what* you are trying to accomplish, and then decide *how* you should do it.

The thinnest angle iron that I see in general use has about a 3mm wall thickness, which is thick enough to take (limited) threading. If you are just trying to get a thread in your angle iron, I'd suggest buying a tap of the appropriate size, drilling out a hole where you want it and putting in threads (more on this later) alternately you could epoxy the nut onto the angle iron, which would hold it "well enough" to let you thread your nut on. Once the nut is in place, tightening it may break the epoxy, but at that point you will have a friction fit, and can always re-epoxy the next time you want to make that connection. The third option I'd suggest would be using soft solder (used to be lead, is now generally tin and other low melting point metals - almost pewter) and a propane torch. With this solution if you don't get a good bond you may need to ream solder out of your threads, so you ma end up having to buy a tap anyway.

If you thread the angle iron, and you need more strength, then put your bolt into the thread (which you are effectively using as a guide) and then add a nut on the far side. This will get you the strength of having the nut, and the ability to exactly control placement.

If you insist on welding, then there are a few things you can try:

• You said that you are using flux-core wire, which suggests that you are using a low-end "hobbyist" mig welder, which likely has a maximum output of 100A. If you can, try turning your power setting as high as it will go and your wire feed as low as you can without it "spurting". This will be a particular challenge with flux core, which is a pain to work with at the best of times.
• Buy non-galvanized bolts, you may need to order these but the zinc is likely making the flux core even more of a pain than usual to work with.
• If all you have is galvanized, heat these with a torch (plumbers torch, these screw onto a "camping" propane cylinder and should be less than 20 euros) and burn off the zinc. You can brush with a wire wheel or tumble in sand to get rid of the residue.
• Preheat your angle iron to red hot with a plumbers torch (you may need a helper for this) so that you don't need your welder to provide all of the heat (current) to get the metal to weld temperature

Scott (the other one)

[Indianer]

If you are just trying to get a thread in your angle iron, I'd suggest buying a tap of the appropriate size and putting in threads

Hey other Scott,

this is...smart. I think I should just do it that way for now, thanks!

• You said that you are using flux-core wire, which suggests that you are using a low-end "hobbyist" mig welder, which likely has a maximum output of 100A.

I do not hope it is low end..so far I´ve been rather content with it. My welding skills on the other side...
This is it. Strong enough, for all I could find, to weld handles onto forge welding stacks, in case I ever make it to bladesmithing.

[*]If all you have is galvanized, heat these with a torch (plumbers torch, these screw onto a "camping" propane cylinder and should be less than 20 euros) and burn off the zinc. You can brush with a wire wheel or tumble in sand to get rid of the residue.

This too is feasible. Non-galvanized nuts really seem difficult to find. A weed burner should do..probably going to empty half the gas bottle

I´ll post more if I can make any progress. Thank you so far

[Scott Martin]

That looks like a nice welder - I'm not used to seeing flux core wire used except in lower capability machines. You don't need to use a lot of gas, hit the bolts with the torch and when they stop making white smoke your zinc is probably gone.

Now go get yourself some argon and switch to TIG Welding - this would make sticking bolts on trivial, and makes for much nicer welds My welding also stinks, but my grinding and polishing skills (mostly) compensate.

Scott

[Indianer]

So, we are making progress. A little bit only, but I´ll post it nonetheless.

Before I even attempted to plug in the welder, I read that manual about 5 times...apart from the "Maintenance section" It does not say a word about the meaning of the preset programmes. Initially I chose one for FCAW, 1.2mm material strength. And I thought to myself "Oh my, how nice of them to preset programmes just for different material strengths...it´s nowhere, where I´d need it, but hey, nice try. Let`s do the rest manually." Turns out, the 1.2 mm is not material strength...it´s flux wire diameter Yep, I´m stupid. Shouldn´t even share this...

I gave that a try and tack welded an M5 screw onto an M5 rod, with a technique I found on Youtube - drawing the puddle in a little circle. And isn´t this the most beautiful tack weld you´ve ever seen? Well, at least I think it´s great

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Plus, those parts had been carefully ground down all round for the zinc. I still set the material strength not to 5mm, but to 2,6mm, and increased the reactance by 3%...did seem to give slightly flatter beads.

This does not help with the nuts and rods for now, those still need work. But it gets me far closer. I did a test run yesterday with -3 % reactance, to protect the thread. I´d say the puddle was too cold. Next time I´ll give it a bit more wire, and up the inductance to baseline first, then add some percents. More when I get there...

EDIT: To spare you the reading I just did:
Reactance: When voltage drops in an AC circuit, an inductor keeps the current flowing for a moment, in one direction or the other. In DC circuits, a capacitor counteracts the current. Current heats up the conductor, thus, in this case, adding heat to the filler rod or cooling it.

[Indianer]

Guys, I´d like to share something and ask for advice. Pic-heavy. I uploaded the pics to my google folder, and wanted to include links to them. The editor tells me "The size of the image could not be determined". How can I solve this? Thanks!


EDIT: Thx mate, that did it! That and using google photos, not google drive.
EDIT 2: Apparently, the links changed. Yep, no plan. Anyway, I followed Tom's description again. This time...we´ll see.

[Carter]

I used this guide by Tom B. on the forum best way to post pics?. You might have to move the photos into google photos but hopefully that's painless enough.

[Indianer]

It`s alive!


Admittedly, it seems a lot of fuss for such a little thing. It did gain some usefulness though, and I got to practise welding small parts.


The most trouble was simply aligning and clamping all the parts. I definitely won´t weld much more like that. Thus, I decided I´d make a welding table, small and modular enough to be able to follow me in whatever apartment I might still move... [edited out]

Best, Indi

EDIT 2: Edited because no-one cared and I wasn´t happy with my work being out there in the open for no reason.

[Scott Martin]

Hi Indi


I can't see any of the images. That said, 39" (96 cm approximately) is the standard height for counters in North America so it's not too surprising that you found that convenient

Scott

[Indianer]

Hey guys, I want to build a fluting and a rolling stake like the ones Ilkka has on his thread.

What material should I use? My first idea was mild, but the fluting stake has a rather thin edge... Of course one can always regrind it, but...at some point there might not be a shaft left to grind

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[Ilkka Salokannel]

Hi Indianer:

Go to your local hardware/building supply store and buy a 4 ft or 5 ft wrecking bar. It is already hard steel and you can chop it up with an angle-grinder and cut-off wheel to make the stakes.

Ilkka

[Scott Martin]

Or go to a tool rental place and see if you can purchase used jackhammer bits. I just got a nice bit from Home Depot for $0 after explaining what I wanted it for and showing off some of my recent blog posts.

I'm hoping to have a new hammer or two later this week built out of the (shock and abrasion resistant) steel from this bit.

My experience with re-purposing "consumer" tools has been poor - most hardware stores focus on the lowest price, so many tools that should be a tool steel are often mild steel or a low grade (1045) of steel. commercial jackhammer bits (particularly spade bits) make awesome fluting tools, and chopped up they also make excellent custom chisels

Scott

[Indianer]

*googling translation for "jackhammer"*...

Btw, I think raisification went well.


The Ball of the Peen


The shape, inspire by Graham Ashford


Feels like spam posting this...so let´s make an issue of it. I polished with a final polishing compound on this felt wheel. Sadly, the fans stood radially off the centre, not overlapping like on usual sanding discs. More like one would have on a buffing motor. Which is probably because someone sold me the wrong stuff and I didn´t notice until now. I used it anyway...but the compound ended up all over the place, barely on the wheel. That´s so not like it...

[Indianer]

Hey guys,

I also want to make a T-stake like this one.

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Can you give me any tips on it? About the design, length issues, material?

All I have so far is that one side is a bit wider and generally thicker than the other. The curve over the top looks rather shallow, the horns seem o have an ovoid cross-section.

The length of each horn must be around 6,7'' (17cm), total horn width 2'' (~5cm), based on this battle-proven specimen:

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[Indianer]

Hey guys, wanted to run sth. by you. I´ve seen dudes use masking tape to hold down washers when peening rivets. A little routine seems to make these obsolete though. Anyway, would some kind of fork, like this one, be of any use to save time on the tape? Not on larger pieces, but maybe on smaller lame assemblies... ?

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[Scott]

I made something similar years ago. I took a scrap strip of steel and punched some holes in a line at the end and then belt-sanded the inside of the resultant slot. I use it when I can be bothered to get get it, or when I hit my fingers too much.

[Mac]

Hey guys, wanted to run sth. by you. I´ve seen dudes use masking tape to hold down washers when peening rivets. A little routine seems to make these obsolete though. Anyway, would some kind of fork, like this one, be of any use to save time on the tape? Not on larger pieces, but maybe on smaller lame assemblies... ?

Peening Fork.JPG

I have something like this for really tiny washers. It's made of a piece of pallet strapping steel.

Mac

[Ilkka Salokannel]

Hi Indianer:

I use scrap pieces also, see pic below. They are typically about 4" long and I use 18 ga as that seems to work fine.

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Ilkka

[Rene K.]

Hahaha...how cool, this things look absolute identical like the ones i use;

[Scott Martin]

You can see these scattered around on the workbench in the "Maximillions' workshop" woodblock.

I periodically look at that print to see if there are any tools that I can identify a need for!

[Ilkka Salokannel]

I just dug up the pic and there it was in the bottom right corner.

Pic 1: showing spacing tool for riviting

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[John Vernier]

I just came here to post the same thing. Here's a detail.

[Indianer]

Hey guys,

would anyone happen to know how the gussets look at the top on this harness? All the pics I have show it assembled...

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I wonder if it looks like this:

Yumanov Gussets.jpg (64.97 KiB) Viewed 11455 times

Thanks in advance!
Best, Indi

[Indianer]

About the last post:
I demurely inquired directly with the museum. That´s it. Of course. I believe I will inquire again... in meantime, I found one more reference for the gussets in Goll's gothic suits. Seems to be the original way how Yumanov did it.

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Something else:

I am thinking of acquiring this collage. From someone who knows better than me, is this skeleton all right? I.e., are the ribs in the right places, not too large a gap to the pelvis, etc. I know there is at least one doctor here...hope you guys know. I will likely use this for a collage for my notes, after some more or less heavy restyling. But the features have to be in order in the first place.

This one also shows muscles, but seems to be the exact same skeleton. I could use that instead, so let me extend my question a bit. But only if you feel like investigating muscles (they seem rather sketchy).

You may not be able to behold the images. If you are willing to help, I will simply pm you my log-in credentials for the site. That will let you take a closer look.

Much obliged!

[James Arlen Gillaspie]

I have one. The gussets are not on sliders. They are 'rockers', relying on the springiness of the steel to reposition them after being pressed.

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[Indianer]

James, thank you kindly! Must have been hard to come by that one. This helps

Or go to a tool rental place and see if you can purchase used jackhammer bits. I just got a nice bit from Home Depot for $0 after explaining what I wanted it for and showing off some of my recent blog posts.

My experience with re-purposing "consumer" tools has been poor - most hardware stores focus on the lowest price, so many tools that should be a tool steel are often mild steel or a low grade (1045) of steel. commercial jackhammer bits (particularly spade bits) make awesome fluting tools, and chopped up they also make excellent custom chisels

Scott

I have had these in my cart for a while now - I figure, they would do?
Bosch 2'' Jackhammer bit
Bosch 25 mm (1 inch) Bit

I can´t find details about the steel they are made of. But if I cannot trust Bosch, then who?

All the best,
Indi

[Scott Martin]

James, it would be great if you could go into a bit more detail on how these gussetts work

Bjorn, I've repurposed some Bosch bits, and the one that I most recently mangled was *very* nice steel, I had to get it to bright orange (almost yellow) to move the material at all!

I'll take a pic of my fluting tool, it used to be a jackhammer bit and now helps me make very nice gothic flutes!

[Indianer]

Bjorn, I've repurposed some Bosch bits

That was precisely my hope when I posted this, THANK YOU!!

Also, I am curious about that pic. I would simply have ground a very shallow curve into the top edge...might have been mistaken in doing so it seems.

All the best
Björn

[James Arlen Gillaspie]

This type of gusset is very common on 16th century breastplates as well, if they come high on the shoulders, unlike the more straight across 'Maximilian' breastplates, which need to have sliders because they are too short. Basically, loose rivets top and bottom, gusset fitted to the breastplate. Pressing on the middle of the gusset causes it to flex and rotate out of the way (how thick could they be and still work, I wonder?). It's as simple as that.
http://www.allenantiques.com/A-114b.html

[Scott Martin]

Thanks James. that makes more sense.

I'm working on a late 16th century breastplate (the early "straight across" type) and was hoping that there was an easy gusset option rather than the sloped slotted rivets.

I'll probably go with the slots, and attach the straps to the gusset so that the weight of the breastplate "resets" the gusset. I'm assuming that the angle is pretty minimal (~15 degrees off horizontal) so that the majority of the weight is "carried" since too much slope would make the gusset quite stiff. Comments (and pics of extant examples) welcome!

Scott

[Indianer]

That´s really not my era, and this is not an extant example. But i trust it works for him, maybe worth a quick look: 22:30-22:55.

[wcallen]

Thanks James. that makes more sense.

I'm working on a late 16th century breastplate (the early "straight across" type) and was hoping that there was an easy gusset option rather than the sloped slotted rivets.

I'll probably go with the slots, and attach the straps to the gusset so that the weight of the breastplate "resets" the gusset. I'm assuming that the angle is pretty minimal (~15 degrees off horizontal) so that the majority of the weight is "carried" since too much slope would make the gusset quite stiff. Comments (and pics of extant examples) welcome!

Scott

The angled slot and buckle at the top really is probably the easiest method to get to "work" They have always worked on the ones I have done, and it is what shows up on lots of cheap armours.
This page can probably help:
http://www.allenantiques.com/A-241.html
it shows one from the inside, and a gusset removed from the breastplate.
I don't design the slots, I just mark each end through the hole as I move the thing in and out without a top bolt. No thought involved.
Some slots are longer, some shorter. They don't seem to have cared if the end of the slot shows.

Wade

[James Arlen Gillaspie]

Another thing; don't be afraid to make the slots good and wide. The sides of the slots never need to touch the rivet.

[Indianer]

Here we go again. I am closing in on the final plan for the workbench I so desperately need. And here I found a problem...

This is the main frame, viewed from slightly above:


Without the top plates - now look at the long tubes front and back that support the top plates (grey, not blue):


They are themselves simply dropped into strong U-bars welded onto the "tubey" assembly and secured with bolts (light gray)...or so I thought, for now:



And you see, that´s the problem. They are DROPPED into them. I can not screw them in tight, for any pounding activities (like embossing or punching leather projects) would ruin the thread, so could welding current. I can not weld them solid, for it would go against all this table is: Easy to disassemble, and into light parts.

I need something to dampen the vibration that would happen with anything I do on the table. Embossing leather (armor, naturally) takes many many small blows. If the table has steel clashing onto steel with every strike it would be a terrible racket.

So how to I dampen the vibration and sound? My first idea was putting foam rubber into the U-bars, and possibly right between top plates and the support tubes as well.

Any input greatly appreciated!
So long, Indi

[Indianer]

I am currently considering these sorbothane pads...same idea, but seemingly better material. Would be nice if could find them a bit thinner though...