what type of oil for armour?

Duc Kjosua · Post by **Duc Kjosua** » Thu Jun 28, 2001 5:14 pm

I know this has been asked before, I just cant find the thread that it was in. I live in south texas where the humidity is killer, and rusts stuff like there is no tomorow. Since I am working on full plate armour right now, rust is really begining to be a problem, with all the little cracks and nooks and crannies that I just cant get to. I have been using regular motor oil for the last several days, as its the only thing I found laying around my shop in terms of petroleum lubricant. The first night I had the stuff sitting in my shop, I put a light coat of oil on it and hung my stuff on the wall. The next morning it was speckled in rust, badly. The next night I tried putting some more on, this time soaking the rag with oil. It still didnt work and I had to sand the rust off again. Now, I have the stuff hanging on my wall, and I just got done putting the oil on with a paintbrush, and there is oil all over the floor where it is dripping off. The point is, am I going to have to do this with mild steel no matter what, or is there something else I can put on the metal to slow the process of oxidation down? My dad suggested wax, but I dont know what kind. I noticed there is a block of beeswax on ebay, but I figured that was for leather shapping. Will that work for protecting metal as well? Thanks.

Galileo · Post by **Galileo** » Thu Jun 28, 2001 5:36 pm

Machining oil?

Armourkris · Post by **Armourkris** » Thu Jun 28, 2001 5:57 pm

well, i live in vancouver, in an area where there are streetsigns with so much moss and stuff on em you cant read em.
so i guess i could say it's rather humid here.
inanycase what u use on my stuff is (drumm roll) either olive oil or just plain old canola oil. nthin fancy, cheap as heck, but i havent had a problem with rust yet.

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What, drawn, and talk of peace! I hate the word, As I hate hell, all Montagues, and thee:

taltosh · Post by **taltosh** » Thu Jun 28, 2001 5:59 pm

Break Free, it's the stuff used to clean, lube and protect guns. The stuff works wonders. Comes in a spray or applicator bottle, just clean the rust off with 3/1 oil and a green scotchbrite pad then apply the breakfree in a light coating and let it rest/cure over time before wiping off the excess. Preferably overnight. Works well on articulations too, it's got PTFE's and teflon that impregnates itself over time. I love the stuff. The splinted arms I made were treated with Break Free back in march and don't show a spot of rust.

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YMMV

Yeoman Chris
Artisan, Clerk, Man At Arms
Editor of the KnightHaven newsletter

David Hagler · Post by **David Hagler** » Thu Jun 28, 2001 6:13 pm

There might be some conflicting opinions on this, but WD-40 is the main article around my shop. Works fine for us.
If little rust splotches show up, use the WD-40 and a scouring pad. Not steel wool.
There are many others I'm sure, and a lot of armourers prefer different kinds.

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FIRESIDE ARMOURY
www.firesidearmoury.com

dkaardal · Post by **dkaardal** » Thu Jun 28, 2001 6:15 pm

I use a similar product as Break Free sometimes. The advantage with the gun oils is that you can get them in spray form, which means you can usually get 'em into those nooks and crannies.

I'll also use sewing machine oil. I'll do a light coat on my armour, fight for 3 days in the snow, leave my kit in my trunck for 4 months and when I drag it out it only needs a very light brushing with a green scotch brite pad.

That having been said, If I EVER treat my equipment so poorly again I think I should be strung up.

[This message has been edited by dkaardal (edited 06-28-2001).]

Sasha · Post by **Sasha** » Thu Jun 28, 2001 6:38 pm

Try wax instead of oil.

Gun wax or a good polymer car wax (Nu-finish) tend to do the job well.

There is also a rust proofing polishing compound that is equivalent to white buffing compound, but it aslo seals in a layer of really effective wax type stuff. Things I have polished with this stuff 8 months ago are still not rusty.
(It does mean getting yet another loose leaf mop for the buffer though)

JJ Shred · Post by **JJ Shred** » Thu Jun 28, 2001 6:57 pm

Sasha - "There is also a rust proofing polishing compound that is equivalent to white buffing compound, but it aslo seals in a layer of really effective wax type stuff. Things I have polished with this stuff 8 months ago are still not rusty.
(It does mean getting yet another loose leaf mop for the buffer though"

Do you remember the brand name and source?

Probably the best historical armour I've dealt with, James Gillespie, suggests "Fluid Film", Jeff Hedgecock suggests Johnson Floor wax, neither of which I've tried, but I use several other methods.
1) I use WD40 to clean off sweat after use. It immediately dulls the finish, but is better than rust. You MUST buff it off though.
2) Usually, on the armour stands, I just buff with a loose-sewn wheel with white rouge, buff off the visible grease (then the fingerprints putting it on the stand) with terrycloth, and leave it.
3) If I'm really sick of buffing (as in the Milanese suit) I put on regular liquid car wax ("Turtle Wax") before putting it up. I've also heard you can just let the wax dry, store it, then polish the dried wax off when you need it.
4) After wearing armour on and around horses, I am currently following Alan Bauldri's advice and switching my performing armour to stainless, and to hell with it.

This is partially why I'm getting ready to unload a couple of harnesses, so I can get lighter, lower maintenance stainless steel. I came in last night and Patty said I looked like a cross between "Pigpen" and "Buckwheat". I'm getting really tired of polishing mild steel, then having "sleepy eyes" the next day because of the lint and dust.

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Virtus vincit invidiam
"Virtue overcometh envy"

[This message has been edited by Bascot (edited 06-28-2001).]

Erik Schmidt · Post by **Erik Schmidt** » Thu Jun 28, 2001 7:24 pm

From what I've read, WD40 is ok if you constantly reapply it, over time certain components evaporate leaving you with a rust PROMOTING residue(actually draws water to it).
Personally I use gunwax. I live in the coastal tropics and it can be very humid for months on end, but the wax stops any rust forming. The problem with the wax is it must be rubbed on and then rubbed/buffed to bring out the shine, which can't be done in the nooks around articluations and the like.
The gun wax doesn't keep out sweat though, even handling with sweaty hands will cause rusting if left for a long time.
Most others I know use oil and they find it is still necessary to wrap the armour in oiled cloth to be effective for longer periods. Hanging it on the wall is therefore not a good idea.

Erik

JJ Shred · Post by **JJ Shred** » Thu Jun 28, 2001 9:35 pm

The link for Fluid Film:

http://www.heartland-marketing.com/fluidfilm.htm

Also, Christopher Poore, Arms & Armor suggests car PASTE wax, as well as Renaissance wax.

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Virtus vincit invidiam
"Virtue overcometh envy"

Lazarus WyÃƒÅ¸ · Post by **Lazarus WyÃƒÅ¸** » Thu Jun 28, 2001 10:51 pm

I use Neatsfoot Oil rubbed on with a rag. Seems to work for me...although I'm not sure if I should be using it for that purpose. You can buy it at leather/tack suppliers.

Tsar

Brodir · Post by **Brodir** » Fri Jun 29, 2001 5:23 am

Gun oil, and carry your armour in two bags; one for everything getting the oil treatment, and a seperate bag for the leather & cloth items in your harness.

Vogeljager · Post by **Vogeljager** » Fri Jun 29, 2001 6:43 am

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Tybolt:
in any case what i use on my stuff is (drumm roll) either olive oil or just plain old canola oil. nthin fancy, cheap as heck, but i havent had a problem with rust yet.</font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

A friend of mine used cooking oil on his harness, then packed up and went to Pennsic. His was voted Smelliest Armour. Not bad in a field of a few thousand suits.

Just as a rule of thumb, If you can eat it so can bacteria. And while the steel won't rust, you eventually may not be able to stomach wearing the stuff.

white mountain armoury · Fri Jun 29, 2001 7:09 am

never dull, i use it all the time, and recomend to my customers, available at every hardware store ive been to.

Ares · Post by **Ares** » Fri Jun 29, 2001 9:25 am

is that metal polish?

Lochlainn · Post by **Lochlainn** » Fri Jun 29, 2001 12:05 pm

Each thing has its good and bad properties.

WD-40 will displace water immediately, but it dries out and provides no long term protection.

Vegetable oils (olive, corn, etc.) can go bad. They can grow mold and bacteria. That's why they aren't recommended for protecting dinnerware, either.

Gun oil, machine oil (any light oil) is probably the best, although it'll need reapplied to keep dirty fingers, etc. from being problem spots.

Car waxes, and others, probably have the highest amount of application time, but I'd think that they would protect well.

Or, best option, switch to stainless.

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Lochlainn
I'm a Liberal and I'm OK!
*Insert gratuitous inflammatory remark here*