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First armor attempt

Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2001 4:15 pm
by jgalak
Well, actually, third. The first two were scrapped as I was learning how to hold a mallet (the rawhide hits the metal, right?) Image

I've been trying to dish a spaulder cop. This is what I curently have:
http://gerfalcon.tzo.com/medieval/armor/spauldercop1.jpg
http://gerfalcon.tzo.com/medieval/armor/spauldercop2.jpg
http://gerfalcon.tzo.com/medieval/armor/spauldercop3.jpg
http://gerfalcon.tzo.com/medieval/armor/spauldercop4.jpg

It's probably a throwaway piece (the edges are cut poorly, and need a ton of grinding to look ok...), but I still would like feedback.

I did an initial planishing pass, but it probably needs more.

It fits my shoulder quite well, but I'm concerned about it being too shallow. It's certainly shallower than the one in Brian Price's book, but I looked at a reasonably nice spaulder at armor practice on sunday, and it's not much deeper then this.

I dished it with a weighted rawhide in one of Ironmonger's steel dishes http://gerfalcon.tzo.com/medieval/armor/shop2.jpg

Any comments, both positive and negative, would be appreciated.

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Yehuda ben Moshe
mka Juliean Galak


[This message has been edited by jgalak (edited 07-10-2001).]

Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2001 7:14 pm
by Armourkris
well, it;s nicer than the first one i ever made. nicer by far actually.
uhm as for deepnes sand stuff, if it fits your shoulder well as it is then leave it, or else use a larger piece next time and keep the amount of curve the same, just over hte larget area to wrap more.. that make sence?
what else... maybe it's just me, but i like shallow spaulders. 1 simple reason, the more deep they get dished the more they hamper my motion.

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What, drawn, and talk of peace! I hate the word, As I hate hell, all Montagues, and thee:

Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2001 7:16 pm
by Harold the Bear
Well i would finish dishing it a little more try to get a even curve going. Then planish out the outer edge alot more. I'm sure a Ironwood malled would do the trick.

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"No matter how hard the wind howels, a mountian cannot bow to it."

Harold der Bär

Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2001 7:40 pm
by Gundo
The leather will serve as well as ironwood.

Definitely make it deeper, without making it tighter, if that makes any sense.

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Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2001 8:36 pm
by Llywelyn
Greetings,


Looks pretty good. I just finished my first metal armouring project. A set of elbows. I am started on a second set and tonight I finished making the plans for a set of shoulders. Pauldrons I think.

They look some smooth. How did you get them planished that smooth?


Llywelyn

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Stay open minded, but not so open minded that your brains fall out.

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I am neater with a 5lbs. cross pein than with a ball point pen!

Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2001 9:32 pm
by jgalak
Gundo: That's the answer I expected, but wasn't sure why. Will it protect better? IS it more period that way? I'm not arguing, I'd just like more of an idea.

The dishing now pretty much matches the curve of the dish. Is there any way to dish deeper with the same dish? Or do I absolutely need to get another dish?

I made this one form 18ga, figuring it wiould be easier to learn technique on that rather than on 16. Is 18ga enough for SCA combat for this piece, given that it's dished?

Thanks,

------------------

Yehuda ben Moshe
mka Juliean Galak

Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2001 2:33 am
by Ceawlin
jgalak,

In my experience, 18 ga. mild steel is sufficient to take an SCA blow, but only once or twice. It will deform and dent quite easily, and may need undenting after most any practice.

Even my 16 ga. spaulders dent from time to time, but they'll do well enough to get me through a Gulf Wars week of fighting before they need a little hammer work.

I currently have two of Ironmonger's dishing forms. I use both of them to finish out a set of spaulders. The second one is much deeper -- just a little touch up work in it would make your dishing deeper, but yes, a second form is probably needed.

Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2001 3:10 am
by Samuel
I'll try and clarify some of the advice (thinkin in terms of techinque dont usually translate well)

try cusping the edge of the cop a bit deeper while leaving a slight curve to the center. think sort of like a turtle shell, the edges are cuved in much more than the back. Its not one solid Ach but two side archs meeting and the center one smoothly.

nice work BTW
Ive been planishing lgihter guage metal with a Urethane hammer lately and it seems much easier than a planishing hammer over a stake. Bear in mind it doesnt hammer harden at all but I do most of my dishing with a steel hammer into a wood stump. so it gets a bit hammer hardend.