What guage of leather is good for a coat of steel

Madok ap Gruffydd · Post by **Madok ap Gruffydd** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 1:03 pm

If I was making a coat to rivet plates of whatever on, what is the best leather to use.
What is the best to use, kydex(sp?), kevlar, steel. I have a coat of steel, but need to make 4 more.
Madok

trustan · Post by **trustan** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 1:06 pm

this doesnt answer your question but do you rivet our loop them on with a chain link or something of that sort? and otherwise i would like to know the answer to your question to

Madok ap Gruffydd · Post by **Madok ap Gruffydd** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 1:32 pm

trustan wrote:this doesnt answer your question but do you rivet our loop them on with a chain link or something of that sort? and otherwise i would like to know the answer to your question to

The "plates" would be riveted. The coat will be secured with grommets or straps.

InsaneIrish · Post by **InsaneIrish** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 1:52 pm

I would say no more than 5 oz leather unless it is very supple to the touch. Although IMHO leather is not the best choice for longevity. Canvas or heavy Duck cloth is a better choice. When a rivet pulls through leather you have 2 choices to repair it.
1. put a washer on the rivet(this can sometimes be a rather large washer bepending on the hole).
2. replace the leather.

If you use Canvas you can take a nail and spread the threads out on the fabric and then push the rivet through that way you are not cutting any fabric. Plus if a rivet pulls through or the fabric rips you can just sew it up. And the fabric will be cooler than leather.

As to what type of material to use. It depends on what you are going to use it for. If for SCA then kydex is fine or steel. Kydex is cheaper. Kevlar is a Balistic protection not a Concusive protection. ie, it is designed to stop bullets not clubs or knives.

Madok ap Gruffydd · Post by **Madok ap Gruffydd** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 2:02 pm

InsaneIrish wrote:I would say no more than 5 oz leather unless it is very supple to the touch. Although IMHO leather is not the best choice for longevity. Canvas or heavy Duck cloth is a better choice. When a rivet pulls through leather you have 2 choices to repair it.
1. put a washer on the rivet(this can sometimes be a rather large washer bepending on the hole).
2. replace the leather.

If you use Canvas you can take a nail and spread the threads out on the fabric and then push the rivet through that way you are not cutting any fabric. Plus if a rivet pulls through or the fabric rips you can just sew it up. And the fabric will be cooler than leather.
.

Thanks. I thought about using canvas, but I figured leather would last longer because canvas gets worn down and gets thinner until there is a big hole. Like jeans on the knee. I've never heard of Duck cloth. What is it?

InsaneIrish · Post by **InsaneIrish** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 2:56 pm

Duck cloth is a thinner canvas. I would use 2 layers of canvas or duck cloth folder over for strength

Sextus Maximus · Post by **Sextus Maximus** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 7:49 pm

One time I made some brigadine armor with metal plates. I used a moving pad that made a excellent vest for the brigadine. I would think it would work great for scale as well. You can get the moving pads at any U Haul store and they are not super expensive. It worked really well but you will have to sew the edges up. I used a standard sewing machine but I had a thick needle and I broke a couple of them making it. Just an idea as well.

Angus Bjornssen · Post by **Angus Bjornssen** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 10:13 pm

Having done a whole 2 riveted canvas CoPs, I can tell you that while a nail will spread the canvas well, a scratch awl does a far superior job making the holes. A scratch awl is less than ten bucks, is tapered from a sharp tip back roughly 6 in to about a 1/4in or 5/16in diameter where the handle begins. It is entirely smooth so there is much less risk of tearing a thread than an unmodified nail has and the taper of the shaft allows for nearly any size hole to me made quickly and efficiently. I recommend that anyone who needs to poke holes in material, most specifically canvas, invest in one of these tools.

Secondary uses for a scratch awl-

1-scratch marking lines in steel (it's intended purpous since it's a sheetmetal tool)

2-making divits in rivets to help keep a drill centered when using one to remove a riviet. just put it where it needs to be and whack with a hammer.

3-making divits in sheet steel to keep the drill from "walking" away from the inteded location of a hole before it bites into the metal fully. wonderful if your drill bit is a bit dull. same method as #2

4-making you look cool in front of your date when you chip ice to put in your drinks. recommended only after a thorough cleaning. no hammer required.

5-self defense if it happens to be in your hand when some sort of unhinged armor thief breaks into your shop while you're working. hammer optional.

yer pal,

Angus (Matt itrw)