Rondells instead of cop fans

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Duc Kjosua
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Rondells instead of cop fans

Post by Duc Kjosua »

I was wondering if there would be probelms with using rondells on cops instead of fans? Has anyone ever had problems with the rondells being knocked or torn loose? And what should I use to tie them on? Thanks.

oh, while I'm at it, has anyone ever used mismatched legs? I want an archers knee and greeve on one leg, and the same on the other, but with what I guess you would call a half cuisse on my thigh and have it stop right under the faulds.

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Rainald
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Post by Rainald »

I have one kit that has roundels rivited to the pre-existing fans. Works/looks fine for me.
Samuel
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Post by Samuel »

you mean like this?
[img]http://www.bobhurley.net/samuel/elbow_with_rondel.jpg[/img]

these are the second coming of a pattern I formed. the ones I first made are still in use and have taken some nasty pole shots. and the originals and these both have one 3/16" dome rivet holding the roundel to the elbow. the ones Im using right now are 18g and fairly tight after a years use... the ones in the photo are made even stronger wtih the brass and 18g mild over the center pviot point. I've yet the get the new ones on the field until my entire new kit is done but I dont forsee anyone hitting me harder in those than what I get now with the proto type.

Galon has the pattern posted I think on the site now.
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Vladimir
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Post by Vladimir »

Samuel, those are absolutly beautiful.
Duc Kjosua
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Post by Duc Kjosua »

I wholeheartedly agree that those elbows are absolutely beautiful! What do you use to cut out you brass? I always end up breaking one of the petals on the fluer de lis when I get to the inside of the curve. I have been using my dremel mounted sideways in the vice and just use it to grind out the metal.

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Samuel
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Post by Samuel »

I use a Jewelers saw.

what I do is draw out the pattern I want and scan it into the computer for safe keeping. all the cutout area I blacken. then print it out and spray glue it onto the metal. this allows me to mess up bad and be able to start over with no problems. I then drill 1/8 holes all over the black parts. and stick the jeweler saw into the holes and cut out all sections. then I file, and clean up the cuts. now I cover the area in a resist and etch it with Ferric Chloride. clean all the resist off. paint the back and rivet it onto the roundel. THEN use a soft buffing wheel to shine it up.

its actually very simple with the right tools.
Although a jewelers saw takes some getting used to.
Le Brassey
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Post by Le Brassey »

Samuel,

Those are wonderful! How was the lettering done?

Was the design based on a historical example?


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[This message has been edited by Le Brassey (edited 07-30-2001).]
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Alcyoneus
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Post by Alcyoneus »

Wouldn't it be easier to etch first, and then cut out the extra metal?
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Post by Samuel »

Henri,
the lettering is hand done. I have a few alphabets of some 13-14th cent scripts and look at them while marking w a sharpie:-)

as for documentation, there are plenty of Effiegies with roundel elbows. the best example I can think of is Sir John d'Abernon c 1340 and if you have "A and A of the Mideval Knight" its on page 78. Sir Hugh Hastings c1347 also had roundels. most of the doctumentation puts roundel elbows around 1340-1360 but I think you could safely streach them to 1380 since the advent of full arm harness with winged cops didnt seem to be until 1390 and later.

Alc,

yes it is easier IF you can line things up properly once its etched. the problem comes when you etch first and find the inside border too thin for cutting and keeping the circle a circle instead of an oval. Ive always chosen to forgo the lineing up part and cut first. chances are you will mess up more with cutting out the shapes than etching so IMO Id rather start on something and mess up then be finishing something and mess it up. hence I cut then etch.



[This message has been edited by Samuel (edited 07-31-2001).]
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