"Pourpoint to suspend leg harness" question

This forum is designed to help us spread the knowledge of armouring.
User avatar
Tailoress
+1
Posts: 7243
Joined: Wed Nov 01, 2000 2:01 am
Contact:

Post by Tailoress »

Gaston de Vieuxchamps wrote:
Marcele wrote:I recently made a custom-fitted garment for this purpose for Asbjorn, who is on this board, and he was kind enough to allow me to take some pictures of him wearing it.
-Tasha


That looks AWESOME. How can I get you to make me one?

G


Thank you, Gaston. :)

I'm making a few others for folks local to me who can be fit in-person and that's basically my 'niche' -- custom-made arming cottes for nearby guys (and at least one gal) who have something of a specific vision. With discussion, they order their fabrics/materials, come over to get fitted/measured, and I go from there.

Where are you located? I'm in Southeastern PA, USA... Where's Winter Park? You can PM or email me, if you want to talk further. At this point I can't make any more deadlines before Pennsic, if that's something you attend...

-Tasha
Sgt. Duncan MacCleay Esq
Archive Member
Posts: 60
Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2003 2:01 am
Location: Connecticut USA

Post by Sgt. Duncan MacCleay Esq »

To inform the ignorant... what is a pourpoint? :?:
"If I have seen farther than others, it is because I have stood on the shoulders of giants" -Issac Newton
User avatar
Black Swan Designs
Archive Member
Posts: 2101
Joined: Wed Jun 09, 2004 9:35 pm
Location: Ramona, CA, USA
Contact:

Post by Black Swan Designs »

In medieval French texts, "pourpoint" means "doublet". In the context being discussed, it is a sleeveless, collarless "vest" used to suspend armour. The last usage has been popularized by the likes of Gerry Embleton in the old Company of St. George materials and Brian Price in his book on armour making.
User avatar
Vitus von Atzinger
Archive Member
Posts: 14039
Joined: Mon Aug 21, 2000 1:01 am
Location: Louisville, Ky. USA

Post by Vitus von Atzinger »

Is that Asbjorn in that picture?
Asbjorn Johansen
Archive Member
Posts: 1699
Joined: Thu Aug 24, 2000 1:01 am
Location: Aldan PA

Post by Asbjorn Johansen »

Yes. She skipped the one where I look like a pirate....Thank you Marcele

I lost twenty pounds prior to fiiting to get to an "authentic" shape...before I trashed an ankle two weeks ago and went from 20 to 40 miles of running a week to no miles again...whine... and I was on track to have my 31 inch waist for Pennsic. Whine again....

I can't wait to match the garment up with the armour Cet is making me. Version 1 in stainless, and version 2 in spring :).

I would say that Marcele is great to work with and makes wonderful clothes that work like medievil garments are supposed to, but that would mean all the rest of you would be ahead of me for my next order...
Asbjorn

What would Ulrich Von Liechstenstein do?
In Modo Antiquo
Or, a demi-fleur-de-lis sable
www.historiccombat.org
User avatar
Gaston de Vieuxchamps
Archive Member
Posts: 1443
Joined: Thu Sep 11, 2003 1:01 am
Location: Winter Park
Contact:

Post by Gaston de Vieuxchamps »

Marcele wrote:
Thank you, Gaston. :)

I'm making a few others for folks local to me who can be fit in-person and that's basically my 'niche' --....


I might be out of luck. I'm in Florida. I also am skipping Pennsic this year because I'm back in school. (I'll be back next year right after graduation.)

Your stuff looks great though.

Some other comment realted to the thread:
"Pourpoint" literally means "for points". Points are the laces medieval folks tended to use to hold their armour on. The knot used also seems to often be called a "point" but opinions vary. I guess the latest trend is to call a garment made for points with no sleeves a pourpoint, but previously it was used for any close fitting garment with or without sleeves who's primary purpose is to anchor armour in place. Some say that the military pourpoint was the inspriration for the civilian garment called "cote hardie" and I subscribe to that theory. Later, this garment tended to end at the hip bones rather than be contoured over them, the shoulders were tailored for a more square look, and a short flaired bit covered the laces (sometimes made of overlapping "dags") This is usually called "doublet" both for civilian wear and for attaching armour to.
"Non Omne Quod Licet Honestum Est."
User avatar
Ringlancer
Archive Member
Posts: 2460
Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2000 1:01 am
Location: Reisterstown (Baltimore Burb), MD USA

Post by Ringlancer »

I have a garment that my wife has made me.

It is front laced, made of canvas lined with muslin, no padding. It has leather tabs sewn into it with grommets placed in the tabs...eventually we will sew the grommets in, covering them with thread. It has short sleves with the grand aisette thingie for the sleeves and has tabs for legs, spaulders and arms.

We had lost our hole punch so the leg grommets have yet to be set, in the meantime I've been ponting my legs to a stout belt.

This will be rectified soon, and at pennsic I will have spaulders arms and legs pointed to the same garment.
William Ringlancer of Locksley
Squire to Saint Sir Marco Valerio DiBartolomeo (Caid)
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Building a Better Bill Every Day.
User avatar
Tailoress
+1
Posts: 7243
Joined: Wed Nov 01, 2000 2:01 am
Contact:

Post by Tailoress »

Gaston de Vieuxchamps wrote:I might be out of luck. I'm in Florida. I also am skipping Pennsic this year because I'm back in school. (I'll be back next year right after graduation).


Ah, yeah, probably not going to happen, then. Unless we make a trip down there to visit relatives and you happen to live in the Clearwater/Tampa or Ft. Myers area... :P Long, long shot, I know!

Otherwise, it sounds like Historic Enterprises will soon be offering true grande assiette-style arming cottes, which might very well serve your needs.

-Tasha
User avatar
Vitus von Atzinger
Archive Member
Posts: 14039
Joined: Mon Aug 21, 2000 1:01 am
Location: Louisville, Ky. USA

Post by Vitus von Atzinger »

I was going to say that you have slimmed down quite a bit!
Klaus the Red
Archive Member
Posts: 4010
Joined: Tue Mar 26, 2002 2:01 am
Location: Sunnyvale CA, USA

Post by Klaus the Red »

I'd like to stick my head into the room and announce that I have NOT forgotten anyone who has expressed interest in getting one of these from me... Otto, you are on that list as well. I plan to post my official production queue in the next week or so, and I just secured the help of Master John McGuire, my regular Pennsic camp host and garb laurel, to take muslin pattern blocks on-site at the war for anyone attending who is in the queue.

Anyhoo, though I am all in favor of friendly competition, and while you are all free to choose your own supplier, I would like to put in a plea for any of y'all who have placed a tentative order with me to not all go jumping ship to Gwen's waiting list, unless we can reach a firm understanding that I can't fulfill your order in a reasonable time. Thanks for your support and patience! :)
Meister Klaus Rother, O.L., Baron von Schweinichen
Klein und kaputt, aber noch gut.
Sgt. Duncan MacCleay Esq
Archive Member
Posts: 60
Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2003 2:01 am
Location: Connecticut USA

Post by Sgt. Duncan MacCleay Esq »

Thank you all for the prompt and courtious replies.
"If I have seen farther than others, it is because I have stood on the shoulders of giants" -Issac Newton
User avatar
Black Swan Designs
Archive Member
Posts: 2101
Joined: Wed Jun 09, 2004 9:35 pm
Location: Ramona, CA, USA
Contact:

Post by Black Swan Designs »

I'll second Klaus' request- if you are in Klaus' queue, please honor your commitment to him. Besides which, he's already got something in the hopper and my pattern is still in the drafting stage.

Gwen
User avatar
Otto von Teich
Archive Member
Posts: 17388
Joined: Thu Nov 09, 2000 2:01 am
Location: The Great State of Texas.

Post by Otto von Teich »

Oppps, sorry Klaus, In the heat of the moment, I'd forgoten I was on your list. My bad... Seems like I've tried to get one of these things for years, and have had a heck of a time finding anyone who will do them. I've followed so many leads that I forgot yours panned out.And I could be just a little senile, being a old dottering coot....Otto
Klaus the Red
Archive Member
Posts: 4010
Joined: Tue Mar 26, 2002 2:01 am
Location: Sunnyvale CA, USA

Post by Klaus the Red »

No worries, Otto- I think the sight of a little competition on the horizon is good for my motivation anyway. Gwen, thanks for the support. I look forward to seeing your interpretation of this garment side by side with mine and Marcele's. Just as was true in period, there are bound to be as many "right" ways to make a pourpoint as there are tailors with the means to do it.

Klaus
Asbjorn Johansen
Archive Member
Posts: 1699
Joined: Thu Aug 24, 2000 1:01 am
Location: Aldan PA

Post by Asbjorn Johansen »

Vitus wrote:I was going to say that you have slimmed down quite a bit!


Thanks,

2 /12 years of not being able to run due to ankle injury (that I got while training for sprint for the Woods flag at Pennsic), I finnally was able to strart piling on the miles again this spring. Of course a couple of weeks ago I had to decide that running on an unimproved trail with a double pitch was fun, and now I"m back at square one again...

Now I just have to try to keep myself from putting more weight on until it heals.

Asbjorn
User avatar
Christian H. Tobler
Archive Member
Posts: 432
Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2002 2:01 am
Location: Oxford, CT, USA
Contact:

Post by Christian H. Tobler »

Hello everyone!

The Revival Clothing arming clothes use a separate pourpoint because:

1. We feel that surviving arming coat/gambeson-like garments, as well as their more numerous period illustrations, have too much flare outward from the waist to the hips to make supporting the legs there realistic; the weight should be supported at the hips, and the garments are simply too loose there. This is a completely different situation, of course, in the mid-late 15th c., where we find very short and fitted arming doublets that clearly would have supported the leg harnesses.

2. Even if they weren't so tapered, reaching up under a relatively long and tightly buttoned garment to point up the legs from the inside doesn't seem reasonable. And there's no evidence to suggest the pointing of the legs to the outside of these garments.

Now, like most things involving period arming wear (or clothing in general!), there's a fair bit of assumption here. We've included pictorial references on our pourpoint page showing what we feel are likely candidates for such a garment.

I can also attest, as have others in this thread, that this setup works very very well. It's tremendously comfortable.

Were single garments used? Were two used? We may never know for sure. The answer may be that both schemes were used at one time or another. We're all in the process of interpreting scant data and drawing the best conclusions we can from it - these conclusions will naturally vary.

All the best,

Christian
User avatar
James B.
Archive Member
Posts: 31596
Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2002 2:01 am
Location: Ashburn VA
Contact:

Post by James B. »

As Christian said there is no evidence to point to how it was done, but I have a very well fitted arming coat (cotehardie style) and I point my legs and arms to the one garment without and issue. But as Christian is saying a non-custom fit may not fit tight against you, mine fallows my body lines exactly. I just had to learn how tight to tie the cords holding up the legs to keep then from holding down my arms.
James B.
In the SCA: Master James de Biblesworth
Archer in La Belle Compagnie
Historic Life
horsefriend
Archive Member
Posts: 1537
Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2001 2:01 am
Location: Salem, Or. USA
Contact:

Post by horsefriend »

Sorry for the late reply;

I wear a pourpoint to point my leg harness, my arm harness points to my jack.

alail/scott
Alienor
New Member
Posts: 27
Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 1:01 am
Location: Saint Louis, Missouri, USA

Post by Alienor »

I'm getting ready to experiment with pointing my arms and legs to the same garment. I want to learn from other people's mistakes in this area, so I don't have to make them all myself.... A number of people have said this doesn't work for them because the weight of the legs restricts your arm movement. To those who expressed this view -- do you wear greaves? That seems like it would make a big difference.

Alienor
Klaus the Red
Archive Member
Posts: 4010
Joined: Tue Mar 26, 2002 2:01 am
Location: Sunnyvale CA, USA

Post by Klaus the Red »

In theory: if done properly, cased greaves should significantly reduce the amount of weight dragging down on the pourpoint. The demigreave should fit over one or two pins on the greave, which, being locked closely around the calf, should take the weight without being driven down onto the instep and ankle. The other part of the equation is having the cuisse and poleyn assembly strapped tightly to the leg in the right places, rather than just swingin' free from a belt as is the case with most flawed SCA armor.

I can only prove the "strapped correctly" part of the theory from my own experience, as I do not yet own cased greaves. Yet I can dream.
Meister Klaus Rother, O.L., Baron von Schweinichen
Klein und kaputt, aber noch gut.
User avatar
Black Swan Designs
Archive Member
Posts: 2101
Joined: Wed Jun 09, 2004 9:35 pm
Location: Ramona, CA, USA
Contact:

Post by Black Swan Designs »

Update- any of you who were or are still interested in a sleeveless pourpoint from BSD (not the long sleeved Charles of Blois arming coat) please email me- there's news! 8)

gwen@historicenterprises.com

Thanks!

Gwen
Russ Mitchell
Archive Member
Posts: 11800
Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2000 1:01 am
Location: HQ, Garden Gnome Liberation Front
Contact:

Post by Russ Mitchell »

Heh. Us with the smaller waists aren't typically being well-served, either, Effingham... (which ain't no knock on Gwen and her really good stuff). I have a hell of a time convincing my tailor to kick out garments that actually hug my waist safe and tight like I want it to. Of course, she's in Poland, so it's hard long-distance...
Post Reply