BEG-Rolling an edge

Forj · Post by **Forj** » Fri May 31, 2002 3:56 am

I'll soon be embarking on my first proper plate attempt, using Sinrics pattern for pauldrons.
Before I start, I like to think a little

. When I'm rolling an edge, what shape am I
after? In cross section, does it roll round to make a circle, or a C, or do I just bend
it over, then whack the very end down flush with the rest of the plate?

I hope people can understand what I'm getting at here...

Cheers, Tristan

------------------
Aww, come on...a little pain never hurt anyone...

Uryen · Post by **Uryen** » Fri May 31, 2002 5:05 am

heres a how-to thingie:
http://www.tournamentproductions.org/documents/edge.html

Forj · Post by **Forj** » Fri May 31, 2002 6:42 pm

Thanks, thats a great resource. Perhaps permission for a link on here could be got? I seem to remember a similar post to mine, but I couldn't find it. It says in that articel that all edges shoudl be rolled. It is for steel fighting, not SCA, but it is steel that I fight with, so shoudl I be doing that, even if the pattern doesn't ask for it?

Frederich Von Teufel · Fri May 31, 2002 11:01 pm

Well, no matter what certain modern armourers may say, if you actually look at period armour, you'll notice one thing immediately.

Only certain edges were rolled. Not every single edge of every single peice. I can't think of a single suit of armour that fits that description.

However. Rolling edges is not a bad thing, it greatly increases the strength of the peice while improving looks and wear.

My advice: roll what you think would be useful to roll. If you are recreating a specific peice of armour, then take your cues from that. If you are making something with no historical precedent, and think a particular edge is going to be uncomfortable need extra strength, then roll it. Otherwise, leave it alone.

Frederich

Uryen · Post by **Uryen** » Fri May 31, 2002 11:59 pm

That article is written by a professional armourer who is using it as a selling tool. Take it with a grain of salt.

Forj · Post by **Forj** » Sat Jun 01, 2002 5:57 am

Actually, I felt that a lot on that site needed to be taken with a bit of salt. Some slightly odd ideas. Perhaps oddly strong is a better description. A few were slightly off kilter what I've come to expect from my readings here, and this is the best resource I've come across.

Thanks Frederick, that makes more sense.

Rainald · Post by **Rainald** » Sat Jun 01, 2002 6:09 am

It also helps to roll edges where there while be a lot of contact with your body. By that I mean areas like the sides of a breastplate where your arms constantly rub. Or say the cuff on a demigauntlet.

Armour Guy · Post by **Armour Guy** » Sat Jun 01, 2002 1:08 pm

Couple other things that should probably be rolled: Tops of cuisses, cuffs of vambraces, collars of bib-style gorgets (spanish collars), breastplate collars and armholes, and maybe pauldron tops. Although, a flare will work, too, in most of those situations...

Forj · Post by **Forj** » Sat Jun 01, 2002 5:05 pm

I figure rolling any edge that has an angle into my flesh, rather than parallel, such as the sides of pauldron lames. If they go anywhere dangerous, someone is hitting WAY too hard...anything round my neck is most definitely getting rolled though. I like blood flow to my head for some strange reason...

Arland · Post by **Arland** » Mon Jun 03, 2002 1:50 pm

Iâ€™ve got another question on rolling edges. How do I keep a round edge from folding and rolling? Iâ€™m just doing one fold on the edge and canâ€™t keep the thing from funking out.

wcallen · Post by **wcallen** » Mon Jun 03, 2002 2:18 pm

I think that the last question was basically " I am trying to do a roll on a curved edge and the thing puckers/crimps/collapses in one place. How do I stop this from happening?"

If that is the question....

The basic secret is to be careful and do the roll evenly. When one part gets a little more bent than others you are setting yourself up for failure later in the process. A roll is done as a series of careful steps, flairing a little more each time and then closing it up slowly (the second part is the most critical).

If you instead meant " I want a nice, round roll and instead I get a flat thing", the answer is that you have to actually work to get a round shape. After the initial flair (assuming a pre-1515 'out' roll), you have to start pushing the edge down before the rest of it to get a curve to start. Then you have to be very careful. Smotting the thing with a hammer will collapse the roll and make what we often call a fold.

Folds are ok - they often did them in places. It is just more fun if that is what you wanted.

By the way - another opition of a reason for rolls. They also served as stop-ribs - put them in places you don't want weapons sliding up (like the neck, the top of the leg...). That seems to be where the big rolls were put. Others were a lot smaller.

Wade

wcallen · Post by **wcallen** » Mon Jun 03, 2002 2:54 pm

Oh, the original question.

The answer is 'that depends'. What piece of armour and what period, and what part of the armour and we can give you a good idea.

They didn't do the 'C' shape much. They did flairs, rolls, and folds depending on what they wanted and the period.

Pauldrons doesn't help - I need to know the period you are trying to copy. Everything from none to full rolled, roped, and recessed borders over most of the edges (though not ALL as was mentioned).

Wade

Arland · Post by **Arland** » Mon Jun 03, 2002 5:27 pm

Basically it crimping and what not all wrong when I try to roll the rounded edge. The item in question is the brim of a kettle helm.