how to make those wonderful elbows......
how to make those wonderful elbows......
you know the ones i mean the wrap kind that cover the crease on teh inside of the arm. usually found on 1450s+ arms that either tie to an arming point or to the rerebrace and vambracer. any ideas how to make em? patterns......plans, helpful insights before i start a pair? btw i dont have a welder.is this gonna hurt me? hehe
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Pheylin Quinn
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Gordon the Grey
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Pheylin Quinn
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Galon:
<B>did you check the pattern archive?
Geez, I didnt set that damn thing up to not have every pattern I could get into it...
I know it is there, I put it here...</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Pattern archive? What pattern archive.....we have a pattern archive? Wow, go figure!

<B>did you check the pattern archive?
Geez, I didnt set that damn thing up to not have every pattern I could get into it...
I know it is there, I put it here...</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Pattern archive? What pattern archive.....we have a pattern archive? Wow, go figure!

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Ideval
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I just started a pair yesterday.
They are simple compared to the style linked from the pattern Archive, but they cover the inside of the elbow.
Basically, I drew a regular cop pattern, and extended the "fan side" by four or five inches....haven't been out to the garage yet....so that one side of the pattern looks like an arrow-head. The extended portion has also a 3/4 inch "lip," which will be flared forward (producing the - V - crease in the elbow) once the cop has been curled.
I am using 14 gauge mild steel because of the depth required of the elbow. Once you have dished (sunk) the cop, mark the center-point, set the cop over a dishing hole (bowl), hold a ball-pien on the center-point, and strike lightly and evenly with a mallet (on the flat-face of the ball-pien). Even with 14g, the cop will begin to "point" or peak immediately.
I then took this to my anvil, and smoothed the transition. Now, I am thinking of a way to make a useable "cone" to raise the cop to the final depth or height.
Idëval
They are simple compared to the style linked from the pattern Archive, but they cover the inside of the elbow.
Basically, I drew a regular cop pattern, and extended the "fan side" by four or five inches....haven't been out to the garage yet....so that one side of the pattern looks like an arrow-head. The extended portion has also a 3/4 inch "lip," which will be flared forward (producing the - V - crease in the elbow) once the cop has been curled.
I am using 14 gauge mild steel because of the depth required of the elbow. Once you have dished (sunk) the cop, mark the center-point, set the cop over a dishing hole (bowl), hold a ball-pien on the center-point, and strike lightly and evenly with a mallet (on the flat-face of the ball-pien). Even with 14g, the cop will begin to "point" or peak immediately.
I then took this to my anvil, and smoothed the transition. Now, I am thinking of a way to make a useable "cone" to raise the cop to the final depth or height.
Idëval
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wcallen
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Since we are talking about the md-late 15th c. german cops of this type (and not the mid 16th c. ones), making them without a welder and without significant dishing is not only possible, it is correct.
The cheapish ones I have seen have seen have a seam down the back. The seam is riveted.
One of the really good ones (I think it was Maximillian's, but I don't remeber for sure) has a triangular piece added into the back to close up the seam.
We have made several pair with no hot work and no welding - they get very pointy.
The (very simple) pair I did on my kid's costume only had a little heat - I heated it to clean up the point (moving around 1/2 scale armour in spring steel was a little too much trouble right there without the heat).
The pattern for these elbows is a sort of a really chunky 'Y' shape. The outer edges of the top part curve out and then sweep into the bottom part in a gentle 'S' curve. The fork of the 'Y' is very broad - maybe 120 degrees (from memory). That includes a piece for the overlap.
This is actually a good piece to make. The dishing is not extreme, you have to move the metal in odd ways, you get to do a lot of flairing, and you can end up with a really cool piece without all that much work.
Wade
The cheapish ones I have seen have seen have a seam down the back. The seam is riveted.
One of the really good ones (I think it was Maximillian's, but I don't remeber for sure) has a triangular piece added into the back to close up the seam.
We have made several pair with no hot work and no welding - they get very pointy.
The (very simple) pair I did on my kid's costume only had a little heat - I heated it to clean up the point (moving around 1/2 scale armour in spring steel was a little too much trouble right there without the heat).
The pattern for these elbows is a sort of a really chunky 'Y' shape. The outer edges of the top part curve out and then sweep into the bottom part in a gentle 'S' curve. The fork of the 'Y' is very broad - maybe 120 degrees (from memory). That includes a piece for the overlap.
This is actually a good piece to make. The dishing is not extreme, you have to move the metal in odd ways, you get to do a lot of flairing, and you can end up with a really cool piece without all that much work.
Wade
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wcallen
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This is a simple gothic elbow - but you can work from here.
The squares are 1" squares.Simple Gothic Elbow pattern
It was used to make the full sized version of these elbows.
[This message has been edited by wcallen (edited 06-03-2002).]
The squares are 1" squares.Simple Gothic Elbow pattern
It was used to make the full sized version of these elbows.
[This message has been edited by wcallen (edited 06-03-2002).]
