[BEG] Is this a good shear to buy?
- Sebastian K
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[BEG] Is this a good shear to buy?
I have been offered an electric shear. It is called the Makita JS 1660, a model which is not available in the States. The "smaller brother" which is on sale in the US can be found here:
http://www.makita.com/Tools_Item_View.asp?id=160
The 1660 works the same way but is rated up to 16 gauge (1.6mm) in mild steel and up to approx 21. gauge (1.2mm) stainless.
I can get the shear for abou 100€, that is about 100$. It costs about 300 new. It looks to be in good condition. I am not looking into doing stainless armour any time soon, and I am also still a ways off from SCA helmets, I think.
So, should I buy this shear?
Sebastian
http://www.makita.com/Tools_Item_View.asp?id=160
The 1660 works the same way but is rated up to 16 gauge (1.6mm) in mild steel and up to approx 21. gauge (1.2mm) stainless.
I can get the shear for abou 100€, that is about 100$. It costs about 300 new. It looks to be in good condition. I am not looking into doing stainless armour any time soon, and I am also still a ways off from SCA helmets, I think.
So, should I buy this shear?
Sebastian
- Sasha
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This is a straight cut slitting shear. it does not like going around corbners much and is completely incapable of inside curves.
The only reall application in armouring would be to slit the sheetmetal into more convenient sizes so that you could work it with a set of powershears or throatless shear.
Not really worth the money unless all your cuts are mostly straight lines and squared edges.
Sometimes a bargain isn't.
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The larger the island of knowledge,
the longer the shoreline of monumental screw-ups.
- Ralph W. Sockman (1889-1970),
The only reall application in armouring would be to slit the sheetmetal into more convenient sizes so that you could work it with a set of powershears or throatless shear.
Not really worth the money unless all your cuts are mostly straight lines and squared edges.
Sometimes a bargain isn't.
------------------
The larger the island of knowledge,
the longer the shoreline of monumental screw-ups.
- Ralph W. Sockman (1889-1970),
- Sebastian K
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- Location: Cologne, NRW, Germany
- Sebastian K
- Archive Member
- Posts: 2462
- Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2000 1:01 am
- Location: Cologne, NRW, Germany
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Alcyoneus:
<B>It will be a little light for helms and such but for $100, I'd probably get it too. By the way, I know a Euro is currently worth a $, but it should only be worth 80 cents.
</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
It depends what you wanna do. I do both import and export with the US, so alas, it is a two-edghed sword.

Sebastian
So what should I be getting, if not this shear? I am on a limitef budget,a and this seemed a better thing than a "normal" bench shear.
<B>It will be a little light for helms and such but for $100, I'd probably get it too. By the way, I know a Euro is currently worth a $, but it should only be worth 80 cents.

</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
It depends what you wanna do. I do both import and export with the US, so alas, it is a two-edghed sword.

Sebastian
So what should I be getting, if not this shear? I am on a limitef budget,a and this seemed a better thing than a "normal" bench shear.
- Sasha
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I have taken a second look at the website (because the first look was before morning coffee)...and I do not get it either. the picture is of a straight slitting shear. The title says straight slitting shear. I have used the things and they are like micro guilotines. They do not have the throatless anvil arangement that lets them fly through smooth tight curves...and yet the site claims it can do miracle turning circles that I would more readily associate with a nibbler.
something is odd.
If you take a look at the thoatless shear on the site: http://www.makita.com/Tools_Item_View.asp?ID=86
That is pretty much the anvil setup that lets you do tighht cutting curves.
If you go "next" by one click form your original shear then you will see another (slightly larger) version of the straight shear. If you take a look they do not mention anything about its turning circle at all. Not just that it is bigger...but nothing at all. So it is the same mechanism but one does super tight curves and the other only really goes straight.
Like I said. Very odd.
Sasha
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The larger the island of knowledge,
the longer the shoreline of monumental screw-ups.
- Ralph W. Sockman (1889-1970),
[This message has been edited by Sasha (edited 07-15-2002).]
something is odd.
If you take a look at the thoatless shear on the site: http://www.makita.com/Tools_Item_View.asp?ID=86
That is pretty much the anvil setup that lets you do tighht cutting curves.
If you go "next" by one click form your original shear then you will see another (slightly larger) version of the straight shear. If you take a look they do not mention anything about its turning circle at all. Not just that it is bigger...but nothing at all. So it is the same mechanism but one does super tight curves and the other only really goes straight.
Like I said. Very odd.
Sasha
------------------
The larger the island of knowledge,
the longer the shoreline of monumental screw-ups.
- Ralph W. Sockman (1889-1970),
[This message has been edited by Sasha (edited 07-15-2002).]
- Mad Matt
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Sebastian: The one Sasha posted is what you want. It says 16 gauge mild but it'll cut 14 just fine. I do it all the time with mine. I've got that exact shear.
There is also a bigger one that'll cut IIRC up to 11ga. The bigger ones don't give as much controll though.
Word of warning. These shears take a bunch of practice before you're good with them.
I like them better then a beverly though.
Anyway the shear you posted is good but only for under $20. That's all it's worth to you for armouring. Preferably if you've got one it was free.
If you don't manage to find the shear Sasha posted you could go for a nibbler if you find one cheap. They really make a mess but they do fairly tight curves and cut fairly quickly.
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The budding mid 14th century German Transitional guy.
Mad Matt's Armory
There is also a bigger one that'll cut IIRC up to 11ga. The bigger ones don't give as much controll though.
Word of warning. These shears take a bunch of practice before you're good with them.
I like them better then a beverly though.
Anyway the shear you posted is good but only for under $20. That's all it's worth to you for armouring. Preferably if you've got one it was free.
If you don't manage to find the shear Sasha posted you could go for a nibbler if you find one cheap. They really make a mess but they do fairly tight curves and cut fairly quickly.
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The budding mid 14th century German Transitional guy.
Mad Matt's Armory
- Sebastian K
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Thank you agian Sasha, and thank you Matt,
I will try to get one of these throatless shears you mentioned.
The JS 1660 just sounded so good, not deburring the edges, turning radius so small, and I figured since the info was comung straight from the maker...
well it's good to have you guys here to ask. It's really hard to get started, but I will give it my best shot. Next up: Dishing stump and hammers.
Danke
Sebastian
I will try to get one of these throatless shears you mentioned.
The JS 1660 just sounded so good, not deburring the edges, turning radius so small, and I figured since the info was comung straight from the maker...
well it's good to have you guys here to ask. It's really hard to get started, but I will give it my best shot. Next up: Dishing stump and hammers.
Danke
Sebastian
- Mad Matt
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First you ALWAYS need to deburr stuff you just cut out. ALWAYS and once more ALWAYS. Even just a straight cut with 90 degree edges and not really any burrs should be deburred. A 90 degree edge is sharp enough when someone's bashing it into your body.
Anyway the shear we mentioned will make nice clean cuts and I've managed to get an inside curve radius of 3/16" (roughly 8mm) on 18ga. The thicker the metal is the trickier it is to get the small curves.
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The budding mid 14th century German Transitional guy.
Mad Matt's Armory
Anyway the shear we mentioned will make nice clean cuts and I've managed to get an inside curve radius of 3/16" (roughly 8mm) on 18ga. The thicker the metal is the trickier it is to get the small curves.
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The budding mid 14th century German Transitional guy.
Mad Matt's Armory
I don't get it... the shear posted originally is just a nibbler, isn't it?
You don't want a nibbler. Ditto on what Sasha said. I also have a unishear (that's a common name for the shear he listed) and will swear by them.
A b-2 or b-3 would be nicer, of course, since then I wouldn't have to wear the mouse ears when I cut, but the unishear works great (again, once you get the hang of it).
Do a couple ebay searches before you buy something new, though. The one I have is one of the "Buck Rogers specials"... you know the kind, with the bare aluminum case and all metal parts. It cost $75 used.
HELMUT
You don't want a nibbler. Ditto on what Sasha said. I also have a unishear (that's a common name for the shear he listed) and will swear by them.
A b-2 or b-3 would be nicer, of course, since then I wouldn't have to wear the mouse ears when I cut, but the unishear works great (again, once you get the hang of it).
Do a couple ebay searches before you buy something new, though. The one I have is one of the "Buck Rogers specials"... you know the kind, with the bare aluminum case and all metal parts. It cost $75 used.
HELMUT
- Sebastian K
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- Mad Matt
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Just as a note on your search for the makita.
Makita makes good tools. There are several other brands that make these shears. Some of the brands are less respected and some are more respected. Any brand will work.
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The budding mid 14th century German Transitional guy.
Mad Matt's Armory
Makita makes good tools. There are several other brands that make these shears. Some of the brands are less respected and some are more respected. Any brand will work.
------------------
The budding mid 14th century German Transitional guy.
Mad Matt's Armory
- Sebastian K
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- freiman the minstrel
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Sebastian,
If you need a step down transformer, to change 220 volts (the world) to 110 volts (the US) I can get you one. they make them in big heavy shop sizes. I cannot imagine a situation in which you might need one, but voltage need not be a problem.
Did you ever buy that anvil?
[This message has been edited by freiman the minstrel (edited 07-17-2002).]
If you need a step down transformer, to change 220 volts (the world) to 110 volts (the US) I can get you one. they make them in big heavy shop sizes. I cannot imagine a situation in which you might need one, but voltage need not be a problem.
Did you ever buy that anvil?
[This message has been edited by freiman the minstrel (edited 07-17-2002).]
- Mad Matt
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Metabo is up above makita in quality.
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The budding mid 14th century German Transitional guy.
Mad Matt's Armory
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The budding mid 14th century German Transitional guy.
Mad Matt's Armory
- Sebastian K
- Archive Member
- Posts: 2462
- Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2000 1:01 am
- Location: Cologne, NRW, Germany
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by freiman the minstrel:
<B>Sebastian,
If you need a step down transformer, to change 220 volts (the world) to 110 volts (the US) I can get you one. they make them in big heavy shop sizes. I cannot imagine a situation in which you might need one, but voltage need not be a problem.
Did you ever buy that anvil?
[This message has been edited by freiman the minstrel (edited 07-17-2002).]</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Freiman my friend,
my dad has a step-down coverter, so voltage is just an extra hassle I do not want to put up with, if you add the postage and lack of customer service on a foreign shear. Shears will sell up to 50% higher on ebay Germany, but when I factor in postage and possible customs I think I still come out ahead with a shear from Germany. Not that I do not buy enough stuff from America as it is
The anvil sold for I believe 700 EUro, I went along until 500, that is what I had for money at the time. But some day I will find one that has my name all over it.
Matt, as for Metabo I will keep that in mind, and if I can get a blue bosch I will probably prefer that as well. For now I just want to get going. Tomorrow I will try to make a dishing stump.
Thanks
Sebastian
<B>Sebastian,
If you need a step down transformer, to change 220 volts (the world) to 110 volts (the US) I can get you one. they make them in big heavy shop sizes. I cannot imagine a situation in which you might need one, but voltage need not be a problem.
Did you ever buy that anvil?
[This message has been edited by freiman the minstrel (edited 07-17-2002).]</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Freiman my friend,
my dad has a step-down coverter, so voltage is just an extra hassle I do not want to put up with, if you add the postage and lack of customer service on a foreign shear. Shears will sell up to 50% higher on ebay Germany, but when I factor in postage and possible customs I think I still come out ahead with a shear from Germany. Not that I do not buy enough stuff from America as it is
The anvil sold for I believe 700 EUro, I went along until 500, that is what I had for money at the time. But some day I will find one that has my name all over it.Matt, as for Metabo I will keep that in mind, and if I can get a blue bosch I will probably prefer that as well. For now I just want to get going. Tomorrow I will try to make a dishing stump.
Thanks
Sebastian

