The Armour Archive

When I get home tonight I should have a nice fat box of shiny aluminum scales From Felix. I also have 200 feet of black nylon para-cord.

I understand the basic lacing pattern, I think, but I have a few questions.

When does one cut the laces? I mean is each row a separate bit of cord? or does the cord somehow carry over too the next row?

When starting off the piece, what is done with the end of the string? is it tied in a knot to prevent it from passing though? And how much need to be left.

To put it another way, when I'm done making a square of plates should the edge have a bunch of loose ends, and if so how do I make those loose ends in to a garment?

If it helps I am planing on a no buckle, pulled over the head type harness.

I am planing on making the shoulder plates like capital Ds extending about an inch over each shoulder. Later I will make aluminum Ailettes (covered in leather or canvas) that will be curved in such a way that it seats against the out side curve of the lamellar shoulders and Extends from the bottom of the deltoid to about 1" above the lamellar. The bottom of the Ailettes will be laced to the arm. This will be loose enough to allow for full range of motion (I hope) and padded.

Does the last bit about the Ailettes make sense from a protection standpoint, what about historically? I mean I know that lamellar and Ailettes where used at the same time, but together?

Thanks for any help.

When does one cut the laces? I mean is each row a separate bit of cord? or does the cord somehow carry over too the next row?

Depends on the lacing design. You will make a row of plates that you will have to measure how long it will be to cover the area. When you cut the cord you will need a lighter to burn the ends so that the will not fray on you. I suggest when you cut a piece of cord to melt both ends so that lacing will be much easier. When you start a row, you knot the cord and begin to lace the plates. When you get to the end you make sure all the plates are tight, tie another knot and trim off the cord. Then you melt the cord again. When you have two rows, you lace them together and do the same thing with the cord as above.

Another thing is that what I did was I laced my Lamellar from the bottom up which helps. I made my plates in rows to cover the back and front then on the sides they were laced together with a 1 1/2 inch overlap. All I have to do is put on my armour like a shirt with no buckles.

I use a larger lamellar, but I like to use shorter lengths of cord -- or at least tighten the cord and tie a knot ~ every 10 lamellae. That way, if I have a major blow out - the knotting stops the kit from coming apart. (The inside of my kit freshly laced looks like someone elses kit with a years worth of repairs.)

When I finish a row, I tie a knot and leave a good 1-2 foot of cord hanging. If after connecting the rows, I need to add a few plates -- there's the cord. If I decide to add edging -- there's the cord.

Finally, I'll cut all the extra cording and (I use synthetic cord) melt the fray into the knot with a lighter. Light it and use the side of the lighter to smother/fuse the cord.

To put it another way, when I'm done making a square of plates should the edge have a bunch of loose ends, and if so how do I make those loose ends in to a garment?

The loose ends on one side will lace into the empty holes on the other side. This will make it one continous piece.

Since you're doing a lamellar sleeve, the last thing you should do is close the sleeve. Its MUCH easier to work as a flat piece than as a cilinder.

One thing I found helpful was to heat about an inch of the kermantle of the parachute cord slightly so it stiffened up it was much easier to lace with the built in needle this creates

Ah, alot of the stuff you said makes sense.

D. Sebastian wrote:Since you're doing a lamellar sleeve, the last thing you should do is close the sleeve. Its MUCH easier to work as a flat piece than as a cilinder.

Well, I am not doing a sleeve, but rather a large solid plate that extends from the top of the sholder down. this will however be laced to the lamellar shoulder peice.

We need some sort of like flash based scetch pad on this site so I can doodle something to explain better...

Stahlgrim wrote:One thing I found helpful was to heat about an inch of the kermantle of the parachute cord slightly so it stiffened up it was much easier to lace with the built in needle this creates

Oh thats a really good idea. I will definitly do that.

I cut cords the length of my arm for easy lacing. I like to lace scales into rows fairly snugly and then connect the rows to each other much more loosely. With the loose lacing between rows I use knots more often because there is a much bigger risk of shifting. I keep a lit candle nearby while lacing so I can fuse cut ends easily.

The other suggestions you have gotten here sound good to me...I'll have to try them sometime.

About the sleeves. You might want to re-think making them a solid piece( laced top and bottom edges of rows.). Punch a hole in the middle of the lames and hang the next row down so there is an inch or more of articulation between rows. There is a LOT of movement of the shoulders and upper arm and the articulation will allow that effortlessly. Rigidly laced rows will have you fighting the armor. Don't NEED cylinders around the whole arm either, makes it harder to move. Just the outside surfaces is enough. Tie a cord loosely around the bottom row to keep it on the arm.

Ailettes and lamellar sleeves? One or the other I think. The lamellar is better protection. I've only ever seen ailetes over mail.

Clinker wrote:About the sleeves. You might want to re-think making them a solid piece( laced top and bottom edges of rows.). Punch a hole in the middle of the lames and hang the next row down so there is an inch or more of articulation between rows. There is a LOT of movement of the shoulders and upper arm and the articulation will allow that effortlessly. Rigidly laced rows will have you fighting the armor. Don't NEED cylinders around the whole arm either, makes it harder to move. Just the outside surfaces is enough. Tie a cord loosely around the bottom row to keep it on the arm.

Ailettes and lamellar sleeves? One or the other I think. The lamellar is better protection. I've only ever seen ailetes over mail.

The lamellar in my design forms only the shoulder "cop" and extends only an inch past the point of the shoulder. The ailetes then attach to the edge of it by two laces so that it hangs down loosly on the shoulder. then the bottom of the aillete plate laces to the upper arm.

I am trying to find a example to post, but i suspect it may be Ahistorical...

I used the nylon macrame that WMA recommended... I knotted one end and lighted/melted the knot, then lighted the other end and rolled into a point to make it go through the holes easier...

If youre using the White Mountain Armoury plates, which are slightly "D" shaped, one thing to watch is make sure you are lacing them all from the same side... It really sucks to have to cut apart your last 1/2 hour of work and start over.

D. - Thats a pretty good idea, lacing only 10 plates at a time... I did mine as one entire row. Toward the end of each row I noticed I was getting some minor fraying just from pulling the cord through the holes... hopefully this wont drastically reduce its life expectancy... I hadnt thought about having to relace it if I have a blow-out.

Relacing in case of a blow-out is a piece of cake: just cut it one early, knot it, substitute in the new lacing, and you're set.

D. gave me that advice as well and I'm glad he did before I started lacing. The "knot in 10" also gives you a convienent place to stop for the night or dinner while lacing.

I'm ALMOST done with my lorica out of Felix's lamellar. I've got one body row to lace and then I have to lace the chest and back "plates" on to the "body" I'll post pics as soon as I get finished.

I also knot my plates every 10 plates for the exact reasons posted by D.Sebastian.

Its much easier to have to fix a small part of your armor than the entire thing