I need to upgrade my SCA bascinet's aventail. It currently has a leather aventail that is crudely rivited to the helm. I think I want to switch to a padded aventail attached by means of vervelles. I am unsure how to get started.
1. What other pictorial evidence can I look at for details besides the tomb effigy of Walter von Hohenklingen?
2. Does anyone have any photos of their own reconstructions?
3. What would be better: linen, wool, or leather?
4. Any patterns or helpful hints on getting the shape right? On attaching it via the vervelles?
Thanks so much for your assistance.
Jesmond
Help with padded aventail construction
-
Armoured Air Bear
- Archive Member
- Posts: 918
- Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:22 pm
- Location: Milwaukee, WI
I know I have pics of some more somewhere... I'll try and find them for you. (try being the key word 
)
on Hohenklingens effigy he is actually wearing a maille aventail underneath the leather aventail, which is shown with the maille dags showing. some say that the maille may actually be "stuffed" or "quilted" to the leather. there might even be a lightly padded aventail underneath the maille as well, or it could be a standing collar.
I'll try and look for the pics I have,
Aaron
)
on Hohenklingens effigy he is actually wearing a maille aventail underneath the leather aventail, which is shown with the maille dags showing. some say that the maille may actually be "stuffed" or "quilted" to the leather. there might even be a lightly padded aventail underneath the maille as well, or it could be a standing collar.
I'll try and look for the pics I have,
Aaron
-
Konstantin the Red
- Archive Member
- Posts: 26713
- Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2001 1:01 am
- Location: Port Hueneme CA USA
Some of the best info around, w/many pics: http://gildedboar.com/klappvisier/
The camail strap may be either single thickness or doubled over, sandwiching the mail between layers of leather. Butted-link camails you'll want to stitch in with two stitches per link to keep the sewing thread (artificial sinew recommended) from sliding through it. Riveted/solid links don't need this. Camail's topmost linkrow should be somewhat compressed rather than stretched out to its fullest.
But you're after a padded-cloth cowl thing and don't seem to want mail for some reason. The cloth pieces you make will be several segments around the camail, the segment edges slightly concave, narrow ends at the vervelle line and the broad ends at the hem. This cowl wouldn't so much need a camail strap as perhaps a sort of waistband, with buttonholes in it.
About three thicknesses of needled-cotton batting should give a lot of what you want, behind some heavy fabric to take a battering. The inmost layer of cloth should be a tight-woven fabric resistant to abrasion.
Some machine embroidery would go well on this sort of project. Perhaps not a lot, but up at the vervelles and running along the hem.
The camail strap may be either single thickness or doubled over, sandwiching the mail between layers of leather. Butted-link camails you'll want to stitch in with two stitches per link to keep the sewing thread (artificial sinew recommended) from sliding through it. Riveted/solid links don't need this. Camail's topmost linkrow should be somewhat compressed rather than stretched out to its fullest.
But you're after a padded-cloth cowl thing and don't seem to want mail for some reason. The cloth pieces you make will be several segments around the camail, the segment edges slightly concave, narrow ends at the vervelle line and the broad ends at the hem. This cowl wouldn't so much need a camail strap as perhaps a sort of waistband, with buttonholes in it.
About three thicknesses of needled-cotton batting should give a lot of what you want, behind some heavy fabric to take a battering. The inmost layer of cloth should be a tight-woven fabric resistant to abrasion.
Some machine embroidery would go well on this sort of project. Perhaps not a lot, but up at the vervelles and running along the hem.
"The Minstrel Boy to the war is gone..."
