Working with T6

[marcus the pale]

I'm looking to build my next COP and am considering using aircraft aluminum but have never worked with the stuff. Cutting won't be a problem of course, but I was looking to bend the plates in a similar fashion to the Wisby style. I have worked with low grade aluminum before, so I know the bending capabilities are limited, but with AA how would I go about making the bends? Is the T6 strong enough to be bent by hand over a form, or would I use heat? If it turns out too difficult I will probably just go with 16g mild steel, since its easy to work. But weight is a consideration at this time.

Thanks


marcus

[raito]

Standard rant -- name the alloy as well as the temper...

That aside, I'll assume that when you say 'by hand' you mean sans tools. That won't work very well. It will bend enough for a COP, but it'll take muscle. But that's good, because as much as you have to put into it to bend it is as much as your opponent has to put into it to dent it.

Me, I use usually use .090" 6061 T651 (because that's what mu supplier usually has). Then again, I bend it under a press necause I'm lazy. But it will bend under the suitable application of force -- lots of force.

[Sean Powell]

I have used salvaged 16ga aluminum that I THINK is 6061-T6 for Wisby style COP's before. It can be bent without heat and should be because adding heat to bend it will remove the existing temper and can turn it into mush. Most simple bends could be done in a vice by hand. Otherwise I recomend soft tools and a soft form or soft tools and a hard form. but you should be careful with a hard tool and denting as you probably don't want to planish which could make the aluminum more brittle through work hardening.

good luck and happy hammering,
Sean

[marcus the pale]

Sorry, 6061 is what I was looking at. I wasn't sure how much force was needed to bend it, but I do have a vice available. Since I can bend it without heat, I was thinking of making wood forms and just using the vice. There is one piece in the pattern (which I may replace) that is slightly dished, maybe I'll try a rubber mallet and a sandbag or something. Thanks for the replies guys.


marcus

**edit to add a question**

Anyone know about 7075?

[Konstantin the Red]

Don't use a rubber mallet; it will do nothing but bounce, especially off of 6061 T6. This is a favored alloy for aluminum shields, but ordinary hammers don't persuade it much. They all bounce like superballs. 6061 aluminum alloy shields from commercial producers are sliprollered.

A sliproller will satisfactorily bend the stuff, but expect it to be pretty springy. You'll bend it tighter than the final curve desired. See what Raito said about lots of force.

Invest in a deadblow hammer for this material, and make it a big one if you're working any piece over a foot across. And what thickness will you use?

[raito]

Yeah, lots of force. I've expended copius amounts of sweat literally jumping up and down on the edge of a pair of cuisses getting the stuff to bend enough to work (long time ago, I have better methods now). I haven't done much with 7075, except to know that in 1/4" thickness, at least one person is using it as crossbow prods.

[Louis de Leon]

I've done shallow dishing for spaulders in 6061 in a metal form with a rawhide mallet. You have to be careful though - the metal will try to jump on you when you hit it. Wear eye protection. Used the same mallet and hammered over a pipe to make simple curves for the lames.

[marcus the pale]

So I found 6061 T6 .100" and 7475 T76 .063"

Since I don't know enough about 7475 T76, I am thinking that the 6061 T6 would be better. However, I bring it up because the 7475 T76 is a bit cheaper. So if anyone happens on this thread that knows about working with it, your opinion would be appreciated. Thanks again, off to buy a dead blow hammer!