Hello
I would like to submit a pattern; for your consideration. It will be a single row; riveted construction, Norman Spangenhelm.
What format should it be in?
The existing patterns are a mixture of sizes and formats.
What would you prefer?
Thank you;
Halberds
Editor; to the white courtesy phone please.
Ideally, a pattern submission should have...<ul>
[*]A line-art gif file of an image which has a marked-size reference grid or size-line (i.e. a drawn line that is 1" long, labeled as such). I say GIF format because for b&w line art, it's often smaller to use GIF than JPG. The image(s) should be 8.5x11 or smaller. You do not need to provide thumbnails (I'll create 'em).
[*]A set of construction instructions (see Sinric's patterns for an idea of what this entails).
[*]Several pictures of the finished object.
[*]Several (legal to use!!!) pictures of a historical version that inspired you. (No, this doesn't mean you must copy an original slavishly. But I think it helps if you can show what the historical piece looked like.)
[*]Several pictures of construction along the way, especially if there are tricky bits.
[/list]
Now, that's ideal. Minimum would be images of the patterns, formatted/placed so they can be printed out on standard A-size paper (8.5x11).
-- jt --
[*]A line-art gif file of an image which has a marked-size reference grid or size-line (i.e. a drawn line that is 1" long, labeled as such). I say GIF format because for b&w line art, it's often smaller to use GIF than JPG. The image(s) should be 8.5x11 or smaller. You do not need to provide thumbnails (I'll create 'em).
[*]A set of construction instructions (see Sinric's patterns for an idea of what this entails).
[*]Several pictures of the finished object.
[*]Several (legal to use!!!) pictures of a historical version that inspired you. (No, this doesn't mean you must copy an original slavishly. But I think it helps if you can show what the historical piece looked like.)
[*]Several pictures of construction along the way, especially if there are tricky bits.
[/list]
Now, that's ideal. Minimum would be images of the patterns, formatted/placed so they can be printed out on standard A-size paper (8.5x11).
-- jt --
How is this?
[img]http://www.cox-internet.com/halberds/Norman%20Spangenhelm.gif[/img]
[img]http://www.cox-internet.com/halberds/finishedspangen.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.cox-internet.com/halberds/insidestraps.jpg[/img]
Norman Spangenhelm
Single row rivet construction
Material: 14 and 16ga. hot rolled mild steel
Halberds 2003
Cut the head band from 1-3/4" wide 14 ga. 27-1/4" long.
Cut the front to rear band 1-1/2" wide 16ga. 19" long.
Cut the size to side band 1-1/2" wide 16ga. 18" long.
Cut the nasal from 14 ga.
Cut the panels from 16ga.
Cut 4 inside strips from 1-3/8" wide 16ga. 6" long.
Dish, shape and roll the head band; rivet or weld it together.
Dish and shape the top bands. Raise a crest on the front to rear band.
Match inside crest on the side to side band.
Punch or drill 3/16" holes to attach the bands.
Attach with #8 screws and nuts.
Reshape bands to desired shape.
Mark bands; as to their orientation.
Dish the panels to match your frame; mark each one.
The panels should lay against the bands with very little rocking.
Trim if necessary.
Lay out the hole pattern on your frame.
On the center lines: punch or drill 3/16" all the rivet holes.
Dish the inside retaining straps to match the inside bands.
Clamp in place and match drill 3/16" in the center position only.
Crease and shape the nasal.
Clamp and match drill in place.
Clamp each panel individually in place; and match drill.
Attach with #8 screws and nuts.
Place flat head screws on the inside sticking out.
Raise the temporarily assembled helm over a mushroom stake.
Use the rawhide hammer to persuade the pieces to fit better.
Raise the crest over a more pointed stake.
When satisfied with the shape; dissemble and finish.
Sand and polish; to your desired finish.
Reassemble with the screws sticking in.
Rivet finished helm with 3/16" dome head steel rivets.
Massage the finish bands to panel fit; over the mushroom and crease stake.
Use a hard wood dowel and hammer.
Smooth out any metal to metal fit.
Polish with car paste wax.
If a leather suspension is to be used.
Do not rivet the front, back and side positions.
The leather suspension will be riveted in these holes.
Happy hammering;
Hal
[img]http://www.cox-internet.com/halberds/Norman%20Spangenhelm.gif[/img]
[img]http://www.cox-internet.com/halberds/finishedspangen.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.cox-internet.com/halberds/insidestraps.jpg[/img]
Norman Spangenhelm
Single row rivet construction
Material: 14 and 16ga. hot rolled mild steel
Halberds 2003
Cut the head band from 1-3/4" wide 14 ga. 27-1/4" long.
Cut the front to rear band 1-1/2" wide 16ga. 19" long.
Cut the size to side band 1-1/2" wide 16ga. 18" long.
Cut the nasal from 14 ga.
Cut the panels from 16ga.
Cut 4 inside strips from 1-3/8" wide 16ga. 6" long.
Dish, shape and roll the head band; rivet or weld it together.
Dish and shape the top bands. Raise a crest on the front to rear band.
Match inside crest on the side to side band.
Punch or drill 3/16" holes to attach the bands.
Attach with #8 screws and nuts.
Reshape bands to desired shape.
Mark bands; as to their orientation.
Dish the panels to match your frame; mark each one.
The panels should lay against the bands with very little rocking.
Trim if necessary.
Lay out the hole pattern on your frame.
On the center lines: punch or drill 3/16" all the rivet holes.
Dish the inside retaining straps to match the inside bands.
Clamp in place and match drill 3/16" in the center position only.
Crease and shape the nasal.
Clamp and match drill in place.
Clamp each panel individually in place; and match drill.
Attach with #8 screws and nuts.
Place flat head screws on the inside sticking out.
Raise the temporarily assembled helm over a mushroom stake.
Use the rawhide hammer to persuade the pieces to fit better.
Raise the crest over a more pointed stake.
When satisfied with the shape; dissemble and finish.
Sand and polish; to your desired finish.
Reassemble with the screws sticking in.
Rivet finished helm with 3/16" dome head steel rivets.
Massage the finish bands to panel fit; over the mushroom and crease stake.
Use a hard wood dowel and hammer.
Smooth out any metal to metal fit.
Polish with car paste wax.
If a leather suspension is to be used.
Do not rivet the front, back and side positions.
The leather suspension will be riveted in these holes.
Happy hammering;
Hal
Alternatively, you could have e-mailed them. This way, though, they show up for everyone until I get the time/energy to pattern-ify it.