The Armour Archive

Hello everyone and thank you for coming to my third installment of "Help the N00b".
Honestly, though. Before continuing, to everyone: thank you very much for assisting me in all the ways that you have.

Okay. First. I'm the funny looking kid. Please. Please ignore those ridiculous things on my shoulders. The girlfriend needed pictures, and my friend threw it on me... Uhg. And the chain, that was just on for fun.
Okay. That's my coat of plates. Six ounce leather, with heavy latigo straps, and copper rivets. Front and back. The inside I used 16 gauge mild steel, 11 plates total. I think it weighs under 10 pounds.

Now a question for further down the road.
I was noticing that I cannot find an illustration for strapping for a set of spaulders, other than installing grommets for tying the plates directly to an arming coat.
Does anyone have two cents for attaching spaulders to one's self?

Okay, and finally. Could I get some opinions on the other two pictures included for matching, not only the time period, but for my CoP too?

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My shoulders are attached by a tab to the shoulder straps on my rig. Keep the maille, or acquire some. A good COP would have maille.

You could point spaulders to a mail shirt, or an arming cote. This would involve sturdy laces (with metal aglets, the pointy ends used for ease of insertion through reinforced eyelets).

Is this kit intended for SCA use? Sorry, I missed any previous threads in which you probably explained the context. The arms and legs look like the leather isn't hardened, and if so, I'd not recommend soft leather, no matter how thick, because it won't necessarily keep your forearm from being broken, or your leg from getting a hematoma the likes of which would "stain" your leg for a year or two. Just my opinion, of course, but something truly unbending would be safer.

-Tasha

The best bet, imo, is to rivet a leather tab to the inside of the spaulders and point them to the maille or garment underneath. For long term, regular use, I don't suggest putting holes in the metal and trying to get that to hold. You will constantly replace the points once the metal wears and cuts through them. See pics below:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v297/Christoffel/Reinactment%20Armour%20Pics/Full%20Harnesses/Kastenbrust/?action=view&current=Picture010.jpg
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v297/Christoffel/Reinactment%20Armour%20Pics/Full%20Harnesses/Kastenbrust/?action=view&current=Picture007.jpg

Tasha McG wrote:The arms and legs look like the leather isn't hardened, and if so, I'd not recommend soft leather, no matter how thick, because it won't necessarily keep your forearm from being broken, or your leg from getting a hematoma the likes of which would "stain" your leg for a year or two.

True dat. And not to be a smart ass, but you're kinda skinny lookin in the pics. Probably ain't got as much 'natural padding' as some guys.

If the arms aren't hardened... they're not a total bust... (or even partial!) Just rivet some splints on the outside and BAM nice hard protection. The splints should go fine with the CoP.

Point (tie) your shoulder armor to your COP... that is how they did it back then (becouse it worked).

A set of splinted arms I did. They are pointed to my COP.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20189002@N ... 104612854/

On the arms and legs, too much fluting and the poleyns are too bulbous. Go to Stonekeep http://spiers-saddlery.stores.yahoo.net/ and buy some of their spring steel knees and elbows, with a rondel or the soupcan style, then make your own vambraces, rerebraces, cuisses and shynbalds out of leather. If you make gamboised cuisses, you'll have a very authentic look.

What sort of helmet were you planning on wearing? The helm is the most visible element of a harness and makes or breaks the look.

gargoyle wrote:A set of splinted arms I did. They are pointed to my COP.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20189002@N ... 104612854/

"Photo is private. You don't have permission to view this photo."


effingham

The only thigns I'd add is that you need a good aketon. I'd likely do that sooner than most things. This would make the COP look great. Do not worry too much. Depending on what time period you are looking at should determine the armour you are looking at. Splinted might be a good idea and the shoulders could be rather simple designs the earlier you get to none at all.

I have two holes in my aketon above the shoulders. These point my spaulders/rerebrace to them. I have a mail shirt but it is far to costly to ship where I am now, besides I am saving for a riveted one! I'd point my plate bits to a mail shirt. Did it for years and done right even on butted it can eb a good solid connection. Works better on riveted mail but thats life.

I was a skinny guy into my 20s. It does not last forever unless you work at it!. I keep hoping the weight I am adding now is muscle

Good luck!

RPM

Sorry. Fixed it.

audax wrote:On the arms and legs, too much fluting and the poleyns are too bulbous. Go to Stonekeep http://spiers-saddlery.stores.yahoo.net/ and buy some of their spring steel knees and elbows, with a rondel or the soupcan style, then make your own vambraces, rerebraces, cuisses and shynbalds out of leather. If you make gamboised cuisses, you'll have a very authentic look.

What sort of helmet were you planning on wearing? The helm is the most visible element of a harness and makes or breaks the look.

Hell if those are your arms and legs. I agree with Audax to an extent. just take off the existing hardware and replace them leaving the rest intact.