The Armour Archive

Could someone describe the various common methods of edging a wooden shield for the SCA? Also, in your opinion, what is the most elegant and/or inconspicuous method?

well in the early days garden hose was common slit down the lent and then wraped around the edge holes drilled around the outer edge and a whip stich to keep everything together.

some people use wet raw hide and then continue with the whip stitching.

for wooden shields champhering the edge and then glueing down a bit of canvas has started to become more common but some marshals do not like this because its a new and less common method.

pannel edgeing is becoming the standard for metal shields mostly because its quick, easy and windrose sells it for about 1.25 per foot.

Im not saying its right or the best, but I always used a piece of air hose witha slit down one side on the edge of the shield, they come in all different colors and are smaller in diameter than garden hose.

Take care

Andy @ Pitbullarmory.com

rawhide strips stitched on


hose looks like ass on a stick....or a board as the case may be

it really depends on what you're going for. If like me, you don;t care about sca rules, then a metal lining wrapped over with raw hide stitched on works and looks best for long lasting durable shield edging. For sca rules the hose idea works best because they care about damaging opponents weapons, and this prevents damage to both shield and weapon. If you opt for my idea, you take a metal n tube and cut v shaped slits into it and make it so it will wrap around the shield. You will have to drill holes every now and then and either rivet or bolt it down. After this is done, drill holes within the metal boarder for raw hide stitching, place the flat pieces of hide around it and lace it down. If you don't it to look too out of place, rub in some shoe polish while the hide is still moist. either way, good luck

The SCA rules are vague in that regard. The edging is to help save your opponents weapon, so as long as its a rounded edge it should pass (basicly think of "point" of contact)

Hi!

You can either use a rawhide strip and attach it with nails (or sew it on) or - even better - opt for a slightly thinner wooden core (for example, I use 8mm ply rather than 12mm ply when doing a rawhide cover) and cover the whole front in rawhide with the edges folded over to the back. The rawhide cover is documentable (at least for the later part of the medieval era), sturdy and looks good.

Just. do. not. use. hose. There's absolutely no need for this blatant modernism.

Cheers,
William

I use 1/2 " ply and then edge it with 1/2" aluminum channel. Once the channel is bolted on I cover it with siloflex that has been split down one side and to make the marshals happy tie it on with nylon braided cord. Not a medieval approach, it is a S.C.A. solution to the rules. My shields last much longer with this edging combination than other peoples.

BS

On my half inch wooden shield I used 1 1/4 OD siloflex. Fortunately I work in a machine shop and cut a 1/2 inch wide slot lengthwise. Slipped it over the wood and laced it on with rawhide. On my aluminum shield I slit airhose and shoegooed it on.

Siloflex. Lighter than hose, and holds up better.

Thorbrandr