[SCA] 15th c. Arming Doublet (project update #1)
Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2003 10:16 pm
The long delayed but finally attempted SCA version of a late 15th c. arming doublet has begun!
Heavy Indian upholstery cotton material was purchased for the shell, off white for the lining and a deep burgundy (hiss, boo!) red for the outside. The material was fairly cheap and was, of course, on sale the week before I bought it. Heavy upholstery cotton thread was bought in the same store (Spotlight).
A pure wool army blanket came from the disposal store and forms the inner padding.
The pattern used was the '15th c. padded jack' by Sinric, here in the pattern archive, modified for my purposes and build.
Cheap black leather approx. 1.5mm thick will form the reinforcing strips, the project will be similiar to the Embleton image on pge 83 of 'Medieval Military Costume' (Europa Military Special No8) and construction techiques are taken from 'Dragon No7' from the Company of Saynt George's website.
The pattern worked well with only a little taking in needed at the centre back seam, initial fears that the arm movement would be insufficient haven't been born out. Cutting proceeded well and the inner shell and single padding layer has been stitched to the outer shell, these seams will be covered later by the leather strips. Extra padding, one layer at the outer elbow, one layer at the collarbone and two layers to puff the outer shoulder joint up so the spaulders hang well are yet to be designed, I'm having to stitch them over the top because I'm (gasp) using a machine and it won't go through too many layers, hand stitchers should stitch the padding layers together as per 'Dragon' instructions.
A collar section will be added to the pattern, lower than the high Burgundian style to allow the sallet free movement.
So far we've spent more time shopping than assembling, it's flying together and I'm pretty chuffed. Obviously, I've made a hideous mistake somewhere that hasn't arisn yet!
Next report will cover the handstitching of the leather strips that stop the jacket distorting under the load of steel pointed to it, and 'roadtesting'. As I'm making pauldrons now that I've moved away from sword & board to halberd, I'll be making mounting points for both spaulders and pauldrons.
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"Pas d' argent, pas de Suisses"
Heavy Indian upholstery cotton material was purchased for the shell, off white for the lining and a deep burgundy (hiss, boo!) red for the outside. The material was fairly cheap and was, of course, on sale the week before I bought it. Heavy upholstery cotton thread was bought in the same store (Spotlight).
A pure wool army blanket came from the disposal store and forms the inner padding.
The pattern used was the '15th c. padded jack' by Sinric, here in the pattern archive, modified for my purposes and build.
Cheap black leather approx. 1.5mm thick will form the reinforcing strips, the project will be similiar to the Embleton image on pge 83 of 'Medieval Military Costume' (Europa Military Special No8) and construction techiques are taken from 'Dragon No7' from the Company of Saynt George's website.
The pattern worked well with only a little taking in needed at the centre back seam, initial fears that the arm movement would be insufficient haven't been born out. Cutting proceeded well and the inner shell and single padding layer has been stitched to the outer shell, these seams will be covered later by the leather strips. Extra padding, one layer at the outer elbow, one layer at the collarbone and two layers to puff the outer shoulder joint up so the spaulders hang well are yet to be designed, I'm having to stitch them over the top because I'm (gasp) using a machine and it won't go through too many layers, hand stitchers should stitch the padding layers together as per 'Dragon' instructions.
A collar section will be added to the pattern, lower than the high Burgundian style to allow the sallet free movement.
So far we've spent more time shopping than assembling, it's flying together and I'm pretty chuffed. Obviously, I've made a hideous mistake somewhere that hasn't arisn yet!
Next report will cover the handstitching of the leather strips that stop the jacket distorting under the load of steel pointed to it, and 'roadtesting'. As I'm making pauldrons now that I've moved away from sword & board to halberd, I'll be making mounting points for both spaulders and pauldrons.
------------------
"Pas d' argent, pas de Suisses"