Need some tailoring advice for a new Surcoat

[Milan H]

Im in the late planning stages of a new fighting surcoat that I would like to base off this effigy.



I plan on basing the torso off a pattern I have already worked out seen here on the right, but I'm looking for some input on the "skirt."
The current rendition does not have a skirt so much... but I would like to work that out in the next one.

For fabric, I plan on using two layers of 5.3 oz linen from fabric store.
I need to insert gores I'm sure, unless I cut the fabric with a flare (would rather not).

I intend on setting the hem at the top of the knee cop, and keeping the full length side lace... Just looks too cool when in a contrasting color

Whats bothering me is I'm not sure if there is a center split on this garment or not, plus I'm not sure if I should put gores in the middle or sides. Any help or input on this would be awesome. I really would like to nail the look of this surcoat.


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EDIT: Here are more pictures I found... http://effigiesandbrasses.com/monuments ... _la_beche/

Thanks to Effigies and Brasses




Thoughts or Advice? (please )


Thanks!

[Tailoress]

Looks to me like the lacing doesn't go all the way down, though it does go down way further than it has to, given that it no longer is tight to the body in the place where it stops.

Here's my recommendation on placing the lacing holes -- follow the 2nd diagram on this page: The Zen of Spiral Lacing, the one labeled: "lacing closed edges". The offsetting of the holes so that the top and bottom lace are parallel to the floor works really well to keep the two closure edges properly aligned. You can also see it in action on Catherine Beauchamp's later 14thc effigy:

http://preview.tinyurl.com/yfb4h5x

I think the front is closed, thanks to those great pictures linked from Galfrid's site. You'll want to cut the front and back as one piece each, and then insert a gore in center-front and center-back, which is a little tricky because you're inserting it into a slit, not a seam. (If you put gores on the sides, however, you'll have a little toughness with eyelet placement right at the spot where the gore hits the seam on the one side, so just be aware of that if you weren't already.) If you have experience inserting gores into slits, great, but if not, practice first before you try it on your good linen. I have a web article instructing how to do it by hand, and it's also coming out in Tournaments Illuminated sometime in the next few months.

How to Sew a Gore into a Fabric Slit

Anyway, best of luck. Please share your finished surcotte with us.

-Tasha

[James B.]

I made a surcoat from about the same time frame and I didn't add the gores in the front and back and I did not get the fullness I wanted on the skirt;. I would take Tasha's advice on adding a center gore front and back; I am already planning my next surcoat with gores added this time.

[Milan H]

Ahh Tasha, I was hoping for you to chime in, Thanks!

The gores in a slit has been a perplexing trick I've dealt with on a lot of my garb, and I came to a similar, though far less elegant solution as your method. I'll definitely be adopting your way of doing it in the future. Thank you for the link on lacing too, it helps clarify some thoughts I've had on it.

I do find it curious that they wouldn't lace the full length down, when its so close to the bottom edge... I think I will apply some artistic license when I make it, with lacing going to the bottom, and maybe on both sides as well. Its very clear that the left side of the garment has no lacing at all on the effigy, and while not necessary to have it, I do think it will allow for more adjustment if I change body armor in the future. A definite departure from the original, but I don't think it will horribly detract from the look. At the same time, a coat of plates is a coat of plates. If anything a new coat would fit tighter than the one I wear now so adjustment wont help.

Then again I may not lace both sides, and just sew the seam closed there... That's left to be decided... What do you all think? Any minor adjustments in the future could be taken up on the left seam...


James, thanks for sharing your experience with this, its good to know i was heading the right direction!

I may do a short photo essay of this when I get started, but if not I will certainly share the results.

Thanks!

Cheers,